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Post by paydem on Apr 7, 2019 10:53:37 GMT -5
All I had at the time was a 4" grinder/cut-off wheel :/ I've gotta nice Dremel tool now, but if I was gonna redo it id either do a conversion hub and keep the drum brake or I'd use an aerox case. To be honest, I've actually noticed a difference in Rolling resistance between the heavier disc brake bikes and the lighter drum brake bikes. My old prebug was way quicker off the line just cuz it rolled very easy, and it had front+rear drums. Drums have no rolling resistance compared to discs, that constantly drag the pads on the rotor. that's strange. my rear drum brakes create much more drag and noise compared to discs. maybe the caliper's pistons doesn't return to their place and drags, or the caliper isn't centered with the disc? did you try to push the brake lever and then tighten the caliper bolts? |
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Post by ryan_ott on Apr 7, 2019 17:07:46 GMT -5
I know what you mean. There is some drag w/ disc compared to drum, I don’t think it’s enough to loose power to drag though. It is noticeable when pushing the scoot around the garage. The prebug is a lighter scoot compared to the big ‘ol bug eye Zuma.
I used to have the drum to Aerox adapter and after some time the steel drum insert pushed out of the aluminum hub and contacted the case. I think pig is still using one so maybe I just had a poorly made one. Just something to consider.
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Post by benji on Apr 7, 2019 18:11:26 GMT -5
Yeah the prebug was much lighter than my bug bug-eye, and it didn't have upgears. Is definitely noticeable pushing it around.
Ermmkk, if your drum brake is dragging you need to get in there and see what's up. The shoe shouldn't contact the drum unless it's adjusted too tightly at the brake arm.
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Post by benji on Apr 7, 2019 18:13:01 GMT -5
All I had at the time was a 4" grinder/cut-off wheel :/ I've gotta nice Dremel tool now, but if I was gonna redo it id either do a conversion hub and keep the drum brake or I'd use an aerox case. To be honest, I've actually noticed a difference in Rolling resistance between the heavier disc brake bikes and the lighter drum brake bikes. My old prebug was way quicker off the line just cuz it rolled very easy, and it had front+rear drums. Drums have no rolling resistance compared to discs, that constantly drag the pads on the rotor. that's strange. my rear drum brakes create much more drag and noise compared to discs. maybe the caliper's pistons doesn't return to their place and drags, or the caliper isn't centered with the disc? did you try to push the brake lever and then tighten the caliper bolts? check your pads, and also the spring that's on the brake cable. If the pads are thin or if the spring has gone soft you won't be able to adjust it properly, so to get brake pressure you have to adjust it all the way into the point where the shoe is dragging. |
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Post by benji on Apr 7, 2019 18:15:36 GMT -5
Got the case cut for the Torsen, and it looks clean enough to me..  One small problem I didn't think about though...  Now I got to find a metric drill and tap. |
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Post by paydem on Apr 9, 2019 10:50:51 GMT -5
that's strange. my rear drum brakes create much more drag and noise compared to discs. maybe the caliper's pistons doesn't return to their place and drags, or the caliper isn't centered with the disc? did you try to push the brake lever and then tighten the caliper bolts? check your pads, and also the spring that's on the brake cable. If the pads are thin or if the spring has gone soft you won't be able to adjust it properly, so to get brake pressure you have to adjust it all the way into the point where the shoe is dragging. the way i've adjusted it now the wheel can spin freely, any more and it starts dragging. i have to use two fingers to be able to stop. it makes noise when rolling, too. not sure, maybe I need to replace the pads. i've driven scooters with minarelli horizontal disc cases and the friction felt non existent, it stopped perfectly too. |
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Post by benji on Apr 15, 2019 21:22:33 GMT -5
Finally drilled and tapped the case for the torsen  I need to pick up a keyswitch from partzilla, so I may buy all new Plastics too. They're fairly cheap and I've been wanting them for a while. |
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Post by benji on Apr 21, 2019 21:42:36 GMT -5
Test start. Way rich on the pilot, I need to gather all my Mikuni idle Jets and make an order. But she is running.
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Post by benji on Apr 24, 2019 0:57:09 GMT -5
Swapped the pilot from a 32.5 to a 17.5.. still to rich, but running better. I ordered a 15 and a 12.5... the only smaller one is a 10.
Damn Mikunis
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Post by benji on Apr 24, 2019 1:01:37 GMT -5
For those who don't know (like I didn't before I had a couple Mikuni's), Mikuni round slide and flat slide carbs don't label their Jets according to size. They use flow rate, whatever that means. Which means jetting is a huge guessing game compared to a keihin carb.
Totally should have used the pwk I had before haha. But noooooo, i had to be Mr. Bigdick Supercool with a polished mikuni flatslide. Now I'm spending $20 at jetsrus every couple weeks.
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Post by benji on Apr 24, 2019 1:07:14 GMT -5
Under the "hood". I cut the bottom of the seat bucket out, trying to move everything I can under there to make stuff easy to test.    Still need a stage6 and a doppler sticker.. |
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Post by benji on Apr 24, 2019 1:12:15 GMT -5
Eventually I'll make a small shelf to sit in the bucket and give me some space for tools and oil
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Post by AtariGuy on Apr 24, 2019 12:41:50 GMT -5
Dumb question, which model of torsen are you using for this build? Sorry i'm late to the game
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Post by ryan_ott on Apr 24, 2019 18:02:55 GMT -5
I believe that one was originally for an F12??
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Post by ryan_ott on Apr 24, 2019 18:05:08 GMT -5
Eventually I'll make a small shelf to sit in the bucket and give me some space for tools and oil Kydex...   |
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