maccrew
Scoot Enthusiast
Custom painted f-act
Posts: 193
|
Post by maccrew on Jul 19, 2011 14:00:36 GMT -5
ok im not to good at finding parts aparently, i talked to a friend and he is gonna help me do some work to it and try to fix this scooter. first off, i went to a different shop, an actual keeway certified dealer/mechanic and told him all about the scooter and what happened and is happening, he said it is my compression, the same scooter same year came in about a month ago and had same problems as me, they rebuilt the top end and it was all fixed and works great. so after that i asked them what i should do to start working on this and here is the list they told me to start out with and the parts i want to do just as a precausion.
what they told me: (i need help finding these parts because i dont know much about the parts and or sizes) rebuild parts for the top end. fuel filter/s carb rebuild kit oil pump (wich i will be purchasing from a member on here)
what i am doing just as a precausion: rear main spring? the big one on the back pully in the cvt case clutch springs (want tighter ones for more speed right?) drive belt plug wire and new plug
the issues with the scooter are getting worse so im going to be doing this stuff in hopes it becomes fixed, also how do i check the reed valve to see if its good or if it needs to be replaced?
|
|
|
Post by 90GTVert on Jul 19, 2011 14:17:12 GMT -5
Top end, I'd just go with a big bore kit at this point. You will need to know if it's a 10mm or 12mm wrist pin, regardless if you go stock parts or aftermarket. Easiest way to tell is to see if you have large or small splines for your variator. 16mm is large, 13mm small. Those correspond with 12 and 10mm pins almost always. There are also other members here with the same scoot, so maybe they can just tell you? PFS sells both stock and big bore cylinder kits. Autotech355 on ebay carries big bore kits. Lots of other sellers do as well. You'll probably need to rejet and tune the carb after the big bore, at least check the tune even with a stock top end. I'd check the compression before going through all of this though.
You can get a fuel filter at pretty much any small engine supply place and some hardware stores even carry then in their mower section. 3/16" usually works for stock hoses.
A thorough carb cleaning, detailed in the tech section, should do it. Never used a rebuild kit on one of these. If I can't make it work by cleaning and setting it, I replace it.
I don't think the contra spring has anything to do with your problem but PFS , Scrappydog, and Autotech355 carry stiffer contras. PFS and scrappy should have the stockers too.
Same sellers for clutch springs. Stiffer springs make the clutch engage later, so it revs more before it engages when you take off. Mostly affects the initial launch.
Same sellers for the belt or some MRP dealers carry Bando belts at a decent price. I forget the one I used last, but search for Bando 788 17 28 and maybe add in MRP and you should find some at a decent price.
You can get a plug locally most likely. NGK BR8HS is a common plug for these engines.
When getting an order together, remember that shipping adds up fast. Buying multiple items from one seller, even when 1 or 2 items are just a little higher than from elsewhere can end up cheaper by saving on shipping.
I thought you had already checked the reeds? I read a lot of threads, so forgive me for not remembering details. If not, check those first. A leaky reed can cause hard starting and poor performance. Again, check your compression before spending the money on a whole top end. Some auto parts stores will loan out compression testers so you might wanna ask. You usually pay for the loaner tool, use it, and get your money back when you return it.
|
|
maccrew
Scoot Enthusiast
Custom painted f-act
Posts: 193
|
Post by maccrew on Jul 19, 2011 14:25:19 GMT -5
the springs im looking to just slightly improve performance, so as far as doing those, do i want stiffer/tighter for better acceleration and top end? so even like an auto zone would have a 3/16" fuel filter? i have a few different things that are like in the middle of fuel lines, are they all filters or no? and as far as top end, i dont have the money for a bbk, im just gonna keep it stock for now and rebuild it, so where can i find the parts for stock rebuild stuff and what do you mean splines for my variator?
|
|
maccrew
Scoot Enthusiast
Custom painted f-act
Posts: 193
|
Post by maccrew on Jul 19, 2011 14:29:44 GMT -5
forgot to ask, for the plug wire, whats the thing it connects to at the other end, has 2 wires going into it, should i replace that right away too?
|
|
|
Post by 90GTVert on Jul 19, 2011 14:37:37 GMT -5
A stiffer contra will raise acceleration and cruise RPM, similar to the effect of lighter roller weights. The only way a stiffer contra will increase top speed is if your engine was revving below it's powerband before. You'd be more likely to keep the same max speed or less if the spring is too stiff.
An auto parts store might have a 3/16" fuel filter. If not, ACE, Lowes, Home Depot, or a mom and pop hardware store are likely to have one in the lawnmower parts section.
Fuel systems on scoots are pretty simple. You usually have the fuel tank, a petcock to shut off fuel flow (which can be manual or vacuum operated) that's either built into the fuel tank or somewhere inline, a fuel filter, and then it should go to the carb. Some scoots with gas tanks mounted lower than the carb can't rely on gravity to deliver fuel, and those usually have a vacuum operated fuel pump in place of the petcock. At any rate, should only be one fuel filter inline. You may have one in the tank, but that would need to be replaced with an exact match, not something you'll find locally. I usually just pull those out if there's a problem with them and rely on the inline filter. Haven't had any trouble doing that.
The variator rides on the crankshaft. The crank is splined to lock the variator (or parts of it) into place. The outside diamter of the crank where it's splined is where you'd need to measure. You could also just count the splines (teeth basically). Large splines should be 15 splines. The smaller should be 17.
|
|
|
Post by 90GTVert on Jul 19, 2011 14:38:44 GMT -5
The plug wire attaches to the ignition coil. If you have spark, you probably don't need to replace the coil or wire as long as they are securely connected.
|
|
maccrew
Scoot Enthusiast
Custom painted f-act
Posts: 193
|
Post by maccrew on Jul 19, 2011 14:55:29 GMT -5
ok so to figure that out, take the cvt case off and count the teath on the i guess you can call it rod that comes out and that will tell me what size rebuild kit for top end i need? i think im gonna pass on the springs,plug/wire for now until i get the other stuff fixed, them parts might still be good (springs) and not have to even be replaced yet. yes i do get spark, it fires up but just bogs out right away, i dont have the tool to get the nut off to count them teeth, any other way? these are hte numbers that are on the back end of the cvt case area, QJ1E40QMB *7306727* will these numbers help me get the size i need for that rebuild stuff
|
|
|
Post by 90GTVert on Jul 19, 2011 15:28:54 GMT -5
Yeah, count the teeth (splines) on the shaft the variator rides on (crankshaft). 15 means you should need a 12mm wrist pin (also called piston pin or gudgeon pin), 17 means you should need a 10mm wrist pin. You can try measuring the drive boss (the part that slides over the splined bit of the crankshaft, visible between the two parts of the variator. That's probably pretty hard to do to without removing the nut. Other option would be to remove the top end and measure the pin that goes through the piston and connecting rod to see if it's 10 or 12mm OD. Most Keeways past 2003 are 12mm I think. My Venus is. Can't swear the F-Act is the same. The engine number doesn't tell the wrist pin size. Other number a serial or VIN type of code.
|
|
maccrew
Scoot Enthusiast
Custom painted f-act
Posts: 193
|
Post by maccrew on Jul 19, 2011 15:59:14 GMT -5
ok im gonna run to my grandpas to use the impact, before i go, how do i check to see if my reed valve is still good, if im going there to use good tools i might as well check that
|
|
|
Post by 90GTVert on Jul 19, 2011 16:31:47 GMT -5
Remove the reed block/reed assembly. Inspect it for anything obviously wrong. Hold it up to a light source/sunlight and look for light coming through. Hopefully the reeds are sealed pretty well against the reed block. If not, you might be able to flip them around or gently bend them (once removed) to get them to seal better. When you reinstall the assembly, you'll probably need some sort of sealant, like RTV, to get a good seal to the cases and intake.
|
|
maccrew
Scoot Enthusiast
Custom painted f-act
Posts: 193
|
Post by maccrew on Jul 19, 2011 17:11:02 GMT -5
ok update, i went to my grandpas and took off the cvt case, there are 15 teeth on the shaft that the variator is on, also i took the reed valve out and its was really clean, no damage, i held it up tot he light and there is a minor glow of light coming threw it, very faint i almost didnt even notice it. the seals that where there are still in great shape and didnt tear or anything, they are only a few months old. its all reinstaled and still running really weird, on the back of the motor by the im guessing starter or something, silver and has wires coming out of it, in that area there is a hole that has a small amount of oil coming out, im wondering is that supposed to be sealed or is it a breather? ill get a pic and post it shortly.
|
|
|
|
Post by 90GTVert on Jul 19, 2011 18:05:10 GMT -5
Hard to tell from the pic, but I think the hole is an access hole so you can remove the bottom bolt of the electric starter easier.
|
|
maccrew
Scoot Enthusiast
Custom painted f-act
Posts: 193
|
Post by maccrew on Jul 19, 2011 18:07:27 GMT -5
the hole goes like right into the motor kinda, there is not screw inside it or anything, kinda blank LOL. oil does come out of it as seen in pic its got oil all over and what i got kinda confused so what kinda of stock kit would i need, its a 15 tooth
|
|
|
Post by 2strokd on Jul 19, 2011 18:44:26 GMT -5
That is the hole 90GT explained. It is there to get the bottom starter bolt with a long tool from the flywheel side of the engine. Im betting you are getting oil out of it from you oil pump seal.?. Or the in (big line from the tank), or out (small line to the carb) oil lines? It is getting on your flywheel and slinging all over and ending up out the access hole. Thats my best guess?...
|
|