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Post by scooternub on May 19, 2021 10:25:10 GMT -5
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Post by 90GTVert on May 19, 2021 11:29:26 GMT -5
If it's for the Adly case and the same size tire, my guess is that it should work. I don't know though.
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Post by scooternub on May 19, 2021 13:37:31 GMT -5
I think trying to remove that pin is a lost cause. I was reading horror stories about the center stand pin corroding weld to the inside. I wanted to put a new center stand on it in the beginning with when I first got it.
you can always try a jacking fixture to "press" it out. like i would put a socket on one side, big enough for the pin to fit inside, but big enough to sit against the the engine case to use as a spacer. then i would get a heavy duty C-clamp, one end of the clamping the socket to block and the opposite end pressing on the pin. hammering a steel pin with a steel hammer leads to mushrooming the pin. you will be able to move it, but once the mushroomed end gets to the bore, the pin wont pass through. if you are going to wail on the pin with a hammer, get a brass bar or a large brass punch so you dont mushroom the pin. the brass bar acts as the sacrificial metal.
you could probably use a 2 jaw gear puller to "press" that pin through the hole too.
the machinist i learned from frowned upon hammering. he was a firm believer in "the power of the threads", hence jacking fixtures that use threads and torque because it's more controlled force using a wrench (i.e. gear puller). hammering can lead to galling because of the shock loads. galling will make it even more difficult to move that pin and cause mushrooming. maybe presoak with Kroil too to make it easier.
I let the pin soak for a couple hours with kroil on both ends, tried with small c-clamp & big c-clamp, it isn't budging. It seems like this pin also goes between two parts of the motor. I'm afraid to use a gear puller because The jaws might go through the soft aluminum?.
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Post by geoffh on May 19, 2021 15:33:51 GMT -5
I have spent a lot of time and thought on stuck stand pins,shed blood and tears as well,it,s a lost cause buy the best side stand for your scoot and budget and get on with it,you can get a paddock stand for maintainance and tuning but I,m cheap and jack the scoot up and use 4 by 4 chocks.
Geoff
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Post by scooternub on May 19, 2021 15:55:20 GMT -5
I have spent a lot of time and thought on stuck stand pins,shed blood and tears as well,it,s a lost cause buy the best side stand for your scoot and budget and get on with it,you can get a paddock stand for maintainance and tuning but I,m cheap and jack the scoot up and use 4 by 4 chocks. Geoff Are they pressed in during manufacturing? I tried a big c clamp with a socket, no luck. Machine shop seen the video of it, they said they cannot do it. I got a guy that might take a look at it. He's going to give me a call back tonight. He did the water pump on my mom's suv and he modified a snow thrower for a big Briggs & Stratton aftermarket motor, I'll see what he has to say, i sent him the video. The pin seems to be 3/8 size give or take a mm. If he cannot do it, I'm going to see if a two arm gear puller with bolt size smaller than 3/8 is available at autozone, i just got back from advanced auto but have no 2 arm gear puller & carquest had none at all. My luck 🤣 . He called as I was in the parts store so i called off the purchase for now. I want this so bad, its the key to me modifying the head for a CHT sensor and/or BBK, and sorta carb idle tuning. The shroud cannot come off that from I can see with the scooter attatched to the motor. If all fails, I'll sit and wait see if we get a 4th stimulus, go for a 2022 buddy or roughhouse & sell the adly as is.
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df41590
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 285
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Post by df41590 on May 19, 2021 16:43:33 GMT -5
They're supposed to just slide in and out, but nobody ever bothers to disassemble and regrease the things. Maintenance what's that!?! See if any of the parts stores has a balljoint service set to loan out, they come with a heavy duty c-clamp with an opening already in it and a hex so you can use an impact gun on it. Put c-clamp on with pressure applied. Heat the aluminum around the pin with a MAP/propane torch from underneath. Then alternate between tapping on aluminum section with a hammer, tightening the clamp, applying heat. If it still doesn't want to move leave the clamp on overnight with pressure on it. Balljoint service set
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Post by scooternub on May 19, 2021 16:58:51 GMT -5
They're supposed to just slide in and out, but nobody ever bothers to disassemble and regrease the things. Maintenance what's that!?! See if any of the parts stores has a balljoint service set to loan out, they come with a heavy duty c-clamp with an opening already in it and a hex so you can use an impact gun on it. Put c-clamp on with pressure applied. Heat the aluminum around the pin with a MAP/propane torch from underneath. Then alternate between tapping on aluminum section with a hammer, tightening the clamp, applying heat. If it still doesn't want to move leave the clamp on overnight with pressure on it. Balljoint service set I'm guessing because that metal is black on that c clamp it is impactable with a impact wrench? Advance Auto parts store has one for $170 to rent.
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Post by aeroxbud on May 19, 2021 17:42:19 GMT -5
I know from replacing two Yamaha ones, they are cast in. they were free to move by hand and turned very easily. But had to drill them out. No amount of hammering or pulling was getting it out. Hopefully you have better luck. Would a mechanic be able to drift it out with an impact?
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Post by scooternub on May 19, 2021 17:50:57 GMT -5
I know from replacing two Yamaha ones, they are cast in. they were free to move by hand and turned very easily. But had to drill them out. No amount of hammering or pulling was getting it out. Hopefully you have better luck. Would a mechanic be able to drift it out with an impact? If pressing doesn't work, drill by hand and eye?
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df41590
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 285
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Post by df41590 on May 19, 2021 18:06:11 GMT -5
They're supposed to just slide in and out, but nobody ever bothers to disassemble and regrease the things. Maintenance what's that!?! See if any of the parts stores has a balljoint service set to loan out, they come with a heavy duty c-clamp with an opening already in it and a hex so you can use an impact gun on it. Put c-clamp on with pressure applied. Heat the aluminum around the pin with a MAP/propane torch from underneath. Then alternate between tapping on aluminum section with a hammer, tightening the clamp, applying heat. If it still doesn't want to move leave the clamp on overnight with pressure on it. Balljoint service set I'm guessing because that metal is black on that c clamp it is impactable with a impact wrench? Advance Auto parts store has one for $170 to rent. Black coating is just to protect from corrosion. Technically no, you're not supposed to use an impact, but any mechanic who has used one will tell you to use an impact. Using a ratchet will make it want to slip off. If the impact stops turning the screw then stop, whack on the aluminum, try turning screw again if it moves even just a little that means the pin moved. Rinse and repeat. If you get the pin to move a little then it stops and doesn't want to move anymore no matter what you do(smacking/heating) flip the clamp around so you're pushing the pin back in then flip it back around. You may have to work it back and forth to break the corrosion free. Oh and remember to grease the threads on the screw of the clamp. $170! For $44 you can buy one off Amazon.
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Post by scooternub on May 19, 2021 18:44:53 GMT -5
I'm guessing because that metal is black on that c clamp it is impactable with a impact wrench? Advance Auto parts store has one for $170 to rent. Black coating is just to protect from corrosion. Technically no, you're not supposed to use an impact, but any mechanic who has used one will tell you to use an impact. Using a ratchet will make it want to slip off. If the impact stops turning the screw then stop, whack on the aluminum, try turning screw again if it moves even just a little that means the pin moved. Rinse and repeat. If you get the pin to move a little then it stops and doesn't want to move anymore no matter what you do(smacking/heating) flip the clamp around so you're pushing the pin back in then flip it back around. You may have to work it back and forth to break the corrosion free. Oh and remember to grease the threads on the screw of the clamp. $170! For $44 you can buy one off Amazon. They do have them in pneumatic. www.amazon.com/Astro-7897-Service-Tool-Adapter/dp/B00061SGZO/Maybe that's why the rental is $170 at advance Auto pneumatic but you probably get all of it back or maybe pay $15 after you use it get the rest back.
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Post by aeroxbud on May 19, 2021 18:44:59 GMT -5
I know from replacing two Yamaha ones, they are cast in. they were free to move by hand and turned very easily. But had to drill them out. No amount of hammering or pulling was getting it out. Hopefully you have better luck. Would a mechanic be able to drift it out with an impact? If pressing doesn't work, drill by hand and eye? That's what I did. Not so much fun drilling a steel rod out of aluminium. The impact I was on about are the ones with a found shank, and a flat face. Mechanics use them to drift out rusted pins on suspension and drive shafts. It would be worth at least letting them have a look. I'm guessing it would come right out, or it's never coming out.
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Post by repherence2 on May 19, 2021 19:07:07 GMT -5
C-clamp usually uses acme style threads.
At work, the machinist was a stickler about using fine threads for jacking fixtures because "fine threads are stronger". Gear pullers use fine threads.
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Post by scooternub on May 19, 2021 19:18:35 GMT -5
The friend might be by this weekend with a balljoint service set. He and I will work on it with the set, propane torch, ball ping hammer and impact, i let him know the pin is 3/8" or so & that the block is aluminum.
In the meantime I will keep using kroil on it every few hours for next couple days till he gets here, should be a good soaking.
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df41590
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 285
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Post by df41590 on May 19, 2021 19:46:01 GMT -5
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