tear down, overhaul, rebuild. Ningbo GTX chinarelli.

[islandscrub]

Nov 17, 2021 22:09:40 GMT -5 808ministroke said:

thanks for doing us all the favor for our understanding and at your cost.
On an off topic question question do you know of any machine shop or anybody I could have gears pressed in Oahu??

808 Cycle Center, Moped Garage, also I think Glenn's, all town side.

[808ministroke]

Nov 17, 2021 23:20:47 GMT -5 islandscrub said:

Nov 17, 2021 22:09:40 GMT -5 808ministroke said:

thanks for doing us all the favor for our understanding and at your cost.
On an off topic question question do you know of any machine shop or anybody I could have gears pressed in Oahu??

808 Cycle Center, Moped Garage, also I think Glenn's, all town side.

Mahalos yah I knew was probably gonna be town.
u mean 808 cycles in young street Yeah? open on weird days.

[islandscrub]

beretania, same building as the old scooter alley

[repherence2]

Nov 18, 2021 1:14:54 GMT -5 808ministroke said:

u mean 808 cycles in young street Yeah? open on weird days.

808 cycle center is open Tuesday to Saturday. They open at 11.

Maybe the shop in kapahulu can do it, i think it's The Moped Company a couple doors over from Mopeds Direct. I did my gears ghetto style with sockets and a brass hammer. Might be able to do it on a large bench vice and some sockets.

There has to be car/machine shops near kapolei or waipahu that can press those gears for you.

[808ministroke]

Nov 18, 2021 12:48:20 GMT -5 repherence2 said:

Nov 18, 2021 1:14:54 GMT -5 808ministroke said:

u mean 808 cycles in young street Yeah? open on weird days.

808 cycle center is open Tuesday to Saturday. They open at 11.

Maybe the shop in kapahulu can do it, i think it's The Moped Company a couple doors over from Mopeds Direct. I did my gears ghetto style with sockets and a brass hammer. Might be able to do it on a large bench vice and some sockets.

There has to be car/machine shops near kapolei or waipahu that can press those gears for you.

I called the dozens of machine shops in Kapolei not one said they could do it!
the shop on kapahulu that Eric runs I'm sure could do it , 808 cycles would probably do it for cheap though as the guy is really cool.

[repherence2]

808ministroke i have never seen a press at Sam's shop, but i know Eric has his shop down below in the basement. Eric came to mind because i figured he has a lot of years of experience and im sure he knows how to press gears.

[repherence2]

got up before the sun this morning and started tinkering.

doing exhaust mock up on Slowped's original stock engine.


due to the angle offset of the rear cone as well as the position at which the stinger is welded at, there are not much options as far as being able to roll the can 180* to reposition. there is probably only about 40* of wiggle room. ...there goes that idea for now, maybe i can rethink it later with a solution to reposition the stinger.



might be easier to weld the end can back on and cut the weld at the belly to be able to roll the entire can so that the exhaust exit is at the bottom 6 o'clock position instead of 11-12 o'clock.

and then after staring at it for while in the irieLab, i decided to see what it would look like with a Yasuni silencer mounted to it.





make the Scorpion style pipe look like a Sparrow style pipe.

is there a guideline for the length of a stinger? ...to connect the cone to the silencer.

or what if i sealed off the end of the cone and made it into a side-bleed, it there a stinger "required length" for side-bleed setups as well?

[190mech]

What about cutting the can end and reindexing it downward?That would be the easiest way,then the original stinger design could be kept..Stinger length is not critical as long as the diameter isnt too small...

[repherence2]

Nov 21, 2021 16:45:19 GMT -5 190mech said:

What about cutting the can end and reindexing it downward?That would be the easiest way,then the original stinger design could be kept..Stinger length is not critical as long as the diameter isnt too small...

i looked into that for a lil' bit.  but all i did was roll the end can along the cut to check clearance.  it is actually about 100* of rotational wiggle room.  at the current position, looking forward from the back it has clearance with the exit in the range of 9 to 1 o'clock.  i guess cutting the stinger and rotating it toward 12 o'clock would give enough clearance for the  exit  nozzle to be at 6 o'clock.  avoids having to cut the end cap off to roll it.  either way, it dont matter, gotta make it work to test it out. 

thank you for your input 190mech i appreciate it.  the Yasuni silencer was just a quick idea to explore so that i could see what it would look like.  i guess i would be pretty neat because it would look like the curvy Arrow pipe for the Dio's.  but yes, i will heed your input and solve it by reindexing the exhaust exit.  thanks again!

[repherence2]

yesterday i revisited the idea of a post-slide venturi divider.



could not find the old one so i made a new post-slide divider yesterday and installed it with some JB Weld. i also initially installed a screen after the carb as well (to test as a "carb screen").

Attempt 1. total crap. mean bog on rev-up. had a hard time running it on the street.

came back home and removed the post-carb screen.

Attempt 2. it runs better. the bog on rev-up is gone. it can run on the street. top end is not impressive.


so what i have found with running a pre-slide and a post-slide divider on a 28mm OKO is this: from 0 to 1/2 throttle it functions like a smaller carb. low end and low throttle is pretty fun. as long as you do not snap the throttle past 1/2, it revs up really nicely. on the road, if you come up on throttle quickly and go to WOT, it feel like it lags. 1/2 throttle performance and response is a lot better than WOT pull. i have a feeling that it post-slide divider fux up the fuel dispersion at WOT and most of the fuel charge stays below divider.

in the aspect of remedying the crappy low throttle performance of the large OKO, the combination of pre and post slide dividers work pretty well. WOT is crappy but she still go! she don't yank, but she can still haul. i came out of Waimanalo and up the hill into Kailua and went full throttle on Kalanianaole Hwy for a long stretch.

did the full tuck thing and when i finally looked at the needle before getting on the brakes it was pointing to the high beam indicator light.



bottom line, it works but it is not scary impressive. it's the fastest i have been on Slowped so far. 0 to 1/2 throttle is lovely. however, like i said, the 2 dividers basically make the large carb behave like a smaller carb. i think that if this was a power jet carb, it would feel more "vtec" like, but as of now most of the power and performance is 1/2 throttle and below.

i am just happy i got to test the ideas. at least now i know how it performs. i am going to remove the
post-slide divider. in the end, i think i am going to go back to the original design from Sareena's carb. that was just a simple aluminum plate divider for the horizontal plane. the current set up has horizontal and vertical dividers.





i know that the simple pre-slide aluminum horizontal divider works from running it on Sareena years ago.

[repherence2]

went on the parts scavenger hunt and i landed at Mr. Scooters / Moped Doctors.



2 1500rpm contra springs, 4 gram KOSO roller weights, and 2 sets of NCY ramp guides.

seeing Robert is always an adventure. he can always come across as rude. i walked in and he was trippin' that i did not have a mask on, but then said it would be okay if we stayed 6 ft apart. i told him i came to see if he had any "jog" parts. i got bombarded with questions about what i was specifically looking for. i straight up told him, "any Jog parts, i'm here to see what kind of parts you have available right now." then he says that he pretty much only has CVT parts. ...so i bought some parts. He is Dory from Finding Nemo. i have been buying parts from him for years, and it's always the same run-around with Robert, but i have accepted that. ...always the same line, "oh, you do Jogs? can i get your number because not to many people tune jogs now and you might be able to help with some questions."

i did end up spotting a 54mm HOCA bore in his showcase. he sold it to me for $50 because it was only the bore. i didn't care because the mock-up HOCA bore i have is useless since the circlip came out, the wrist pin drifted and carved out a nice gouge on the cylinder wall.

i also bought some front-end parts (from 808 Cycle Center) for my DD50 engine build, but those parts might end up on a chinarelli/4-stroke frame.





i wouldn't mind having this front end set-up on a chinarelli platform. at some point, i am going to mock it up on Sareena since Slowped is in running condition, while Sareena is still sitting outside in mock-up status

[repherence2]

test fitted the legs on Sareena. i was surprised that it fit up nicely.









i put the front fairing back on to see how it would look and to see if it was going to have to modify the front wheel fender and install it.






not bad, turned out to be a lot better than i thought it would. Make Anykine. imagineering in the IrieLab.

[repherence2]

i changed out my front brake caliper on Slowped a few weeks ago. removed the stock caliper and installed an NCY caliper. when i cleaned out the brake line and the master cylinder, it seemed like there was "grease" and "water". what i found in the the lines and in the brake master cylinder reservoir, looked nothing like brake fluid. seriously looked like Vaseline and water.



NCY caliper with big brake kit/rotor.


i also bought some new TYGON fuel hose from Hobbietat, a local fishing/hobby/RC shop.

)


went to see Mr. Lee at Rainbow Motors. went looking for an exhaust (YMS V8) but he did not have any in stock. i bought a new rear brake cable $15, a rear shock extender $15, and an new rear tail light assembly because i needed a new turn signal bulb and and lense $40.



i also went to Glenn's Cycles looking for "JOG" parts, but none to be found. bought some Motul 710 oil $27 and a red throttle cable, listed for DIO $20.

[repherence2]

some planned work for SlowPed.

i am going to remove the engine. i plan on plumbing new Fuel Hose and Fuel Filter and Shut Off Valve. i was thinking of plugging the port on the CT intake manifold that used to function as the Vacuum source for the fuel petcock. i bypassed the petcock a while ago. i plan on removing the line from the Fuel Petcock and then hooking it up to a NALGENE 50 ml. vial as a "boost bottle".





i removed a V8 pipe because i could hear some rattling metal inside the canister. in the mean time, i think i am going to mock up the JAD Scorpion-type pipe and then take to an exhaust shop to have it welded up.





so, yeah, got some Maintenance plans for SlowPed. going to changed out the Rear Brake Cable, got a new one from Mr. Lee for $15. since i will be removing some panels, i am going to run a set of wires for future installation of TTO Temp and Tach Gauges. Glenn's Cycles is expecting a shipment on gauges in 2 weeks. i am going to remove the engine from the frame. remove the head/bore/piston and inspect. drain the gearbox oil. remove the CVT parts and inspect/retune. i have new Michelin S1 tires to install front and rear.


--- Most importantly, i have to change out the large crank seal. i damaged it upon installation but was too lazy to pull it and install a new one. the engine feels like it is "lacking" a little bit, and i am pretty sure it is because of the compromised crank seal. --- LAZINESS.

[repherence2]

did some work on Sareena.

i was probin' out at the hardware store and trying to brainstorm a solution to mount my handle bar assembly to the stock tree. found some 5/8"-11 all thread, bought a 5/8"-11 tap as well. tapped the inside of the bicycle neck with the 5/8"-11 tap. cut a 5" length of all thread, threaded one end into the bicycle neck that i tapped.








i need to get some nuts and bolts to secure the neck to the stem.

i also need to get another Rear Brake Cable from Mr. Lee so that Sareena has a new Rear Brake Cable. i will also see if Mr Lee has a new gas tank for Sareena. the original tank has a 2 stroke oil reservoir. i think i will just set up Sareena for Pre-Mix to run the DD50 engine. so i can just get a away with a new 4-stroke scoot gas tank, no need for an oil reservoir anymore.


engine mount dilemmas. i do not want to cut the "Minarelli" mounts off of the frame for now. i am considering fabricating a semi-stretched engine mount by modifying the 4-stroke engine mount and extending it so that the SYM DD50 engine/shroud clears the "Minarelli" mount tabs on the Chinarelli frame.



now that i am running a NCY brake caliper on a big brake set up on SlowPed, i think i still want to explore the idea of running 2 NCY calipers on a 220mm rotor set up. so i plan on getting another caliper and making a plate to be able to mount 2 NCY calipers. i need to remove the front end and bring the parts into the house. Corrosion is taking place.



...until next time, more probin' in the Irie Lab.