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Post by ryan_ott on Jan 17, 2019 20:05:13 GMT -5
I’m just going to add some notes for future reference: 12.75 gram rollers 14X18 142mm TD diameter Variator OD 115mm Belt is a 743-30-20 I really think I could use a slightly longer belt as I’ve got 3-5mm left unused front and rear, I guess I’ll do the guessing game to find the right length. I’m waiting in a flywheel puller then I’ll se what’s under there. On a side note I just discovered PA passed a law to allow golf carts and utility vehicles on public roads for local use. It’s only within a mile but a mile of where...That’s perfect to drop the kids off at their friends down the street.
Pull start parts:
Belt alignment, don’t mind the egr exhaust leak youtu.be/OYvSsRokLL0
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Post by ryan_ott on Jan 22, 2019 18:57:32 GMT -5
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Post by aeroxbud on Jan 22, 2019 20:48:14 GMT -5
No problem riding at night now. Must be near the end of the fixing. Let the fun commence. 👍
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Post by ryan_ott on Jan 22, 2019 21:33:52 GMT -5
I think it’ll always be a work in progress but really it’s ready to go. It’s just little things here and there that I think I should change or make better even though they are fine as it sits. I might try to go bash it some this weekend if plans workout.
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Post by 90GTVert on Jan 22, 2019 22:01:57 GMT -5
Def a different setup than the 8 pole AC that many Chinese 4Ts have. You actually have 8 poles for charging and the others have 7 since once is an exciter coil for the AC CDI. My converted 2T charging system certainly seems to work better than it did before floating the ground and such, so maybe it is just that plus the extra winding. Just looking quickly, it seems like that's standard for the karts and UTVs.
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Post by snaker on Jan 23, 2019 13:40:24 GMT -5
90GTVert got it, looks like a true DC type stator vs. the 7+1 AC types. I think I see the yellow wired to the pole at 10'clock and the white wired to the adjoining pole at 8'clock. If so that would indicate a full wave configuration. Something I ran into with my cart is that the rear tires kick up a lot of dust, grass, leaves. Check often any filter you may have at the front of the CVT cover. A bigger challenge is the engine cooling fan. The fan is like a vacuum cleaner on the rear tire. I had to access this frequently to clean. The outside of the fan grill would packup with grass and leaves I carried a car ice scrapper brush to frequently clean.
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Post by snaker on Jan 23, 2019 13:47:43 GMT -5
This is a project I did to minimize the cooling problem. I used a house dryer vent kit and rigged to fit. It reduced the problem significantly but not completely. Very little dust got in but I still have to brush the grass and leaves at times
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Post by ryan_ott on Jan 23, 2019 14:10:20 GMT -5
Yes I quickly noticed that issue. I was planning on getting one of the cooling scoops and attaching some hvac flex duct to it and route it to a safe area. It’ll still need frequent inspection. Your fix looks like it could work for my plan also.
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Post by FrankenMech on Jan 23, 2019 14:28:02 GMT -5
Fans do not work well with any kind of restriction on the intake. A section of flex duct may cause problems. A head temp gauge may be a good option.
14.8V will fry a battery.
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Post by ryan_ott on Jan 23, 2019 19:01:51 GMT -5
I have a temp gauge in route. I’m not too worried about killing the battery. Yes it’s a tad high but this has a larger AH battery. If it were a little 4ah battery, I could see that.
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Post by FrankenMech on Jan 23, 2019 21:29:07 GMT -5
14.8V will fry a big car battery. It should be 13.8-14.2V.
Back when voltage regulators could be adjusted we set the voltage to 14.2V for the little old lady that drove to church and the store. We set the traveling salesman's regulator for 13.8V. Batteries have improved but the lead-acid charge voltage remains the same.
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Post by ryan_ott on Jan 24, 2019 19:52:20 GMT -5
The wife is away so I’ll use the kitchen table for a science experiment. Although the charge system seems capable of running the extra load of the light bar I’ll try to be nice and not stress it. I plan on running the light bar from it’s own battery and use a relay so the stator will only charge that battery when the light bar is off. It seems to work on paper and my test setup. Edit: I checked the draw of the 180w light - 66watt... Those Chinese are so bad at math. It’s still pretty stinkin bright. So I guess that puts my total draw at 85-90watt, so maybe I don’t need to redesign this.
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Post by ryan_ott on Mar 19, 2019 18:34:03 GMT -5
So what do you do when the MSO you received from the manufacturer isn’t signed and the place you bought it from refuses to sign off on it? I’ve tried BBB complaints, PayPal case opened. Their response was “you received the vehicle, we’ve completed our obligations”. This was purchased from Upzy.com, listed in Oregon but an IP search comes up in Canada which I think may be accurate because my emails were responded to between 7-8am eastern time. Can any “dealer” sign off on this to be proper.
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Post by benji on Mar 19, 2019 21:05:36 GMT -5
Does it need to be signed and notarized? Or just signed?
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Post by ryan_ott on Mar 19, 2019 21:28:34 GMT -5
If Oregon is a notary state, signed and notorized.
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