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Post by 808ministroke on Aug 2, 2019 5:39:32 GMT -5
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Post by ryan_ott on Aug 2, 2019 19:41:48 GMT -5
I’d suggest a inner rotor ignition due to the rpm at which it runs 13,600-13,800 and a proper pipe for those rpm’s. It’s a fun peaky cylinder if you don’t mind a on/off throttle action, I’ve had one in the past and 'O'Verse has one currently. |
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Post by repherence2 on Aug 3, 2019 0:21:46 GMT -5
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Post by 808ministroke on Aug 3, 2019 7:18:25 GMT -5
 Yah I am trying to get a nicer chambered pipe than what I got now like yasuni c21 Voca pipes are looking proper as well. Can’t really afford inner rotor as of now so already put stock from my other rexy block , I would think that 300 or 400$ would be better spent on an over range right? Has anyone ever used these boars without inner rotor? |
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Post by 808ministroke on Aug 3, 2019 7:21:22 GMT -5
Also I was going to try using a hot water heater pump it seems to put out enough gph and temp is rated close enough for me...., anyway Theft the love
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Post by oldgeek on Aug 3, 2019 7:40:18 GMT -5
No way would I run a stock FW at 1300+ They have too much mass.  |
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Post by ryan_ott on Aug 3, 2019 10:12:23 GMT -5
For the full potential of that cylinder you may want to consider the C30 or the malossi pipe designed for that cylinder. Given the high timings you need the rpms to make the power. The OEM flywheel may last in short bursts but when it fails where is it going to go... Inner rotor ignitions not only lighten the mass but also offer timing curves to throw heat from the cylinder out the pipe. You’ll also need a clutch capable of 9-10K engagement rpm. The cylinder is the cheap part of the puzzle.
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Post by benji on Aug 3, 2019 11:54:27 GMT -5
No way would I run a stock FW at 1300+ They have too much mass. not if you have a machine shop lathe it down like I did haha. 13k is high tho, too high for most OEM Iggy's to keep up with I think. I've heard most OEM Iggy's start breaking up around 12k. |
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Post by repherence2 on Aug 3, 2019 21:11:01 GMT -5
is that the bore that we were chatting about? the one you got from your friend? |
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Post by chehystpewpur on Aug 3, 2019 21:21:48 GMT -5
Also I was going to try using a hot water heater pump it seems to put out enough gph and temp is rated close enough for me...., anyway Theft the love i found one on amazon dont buy that one as they jacked the price up. mine was less than 30 bux shipped. but look for one that size its really small and uses a brushless motor. it pulls about 1 amp and stock electrical can keep the pump running at idle with no battery. its very low power and pumps plenty fine. easy to mount as its smaller and lighter than most of those pumps. does not self prime at all so thats the only downside. i have a bile that wraps up to 11/12k rpms aswell so i had to switch pumps. the mechanical one didnt like the revs too much.
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Post by 808ministroke on Aug 4, 2019 21:45:59 GMT -5
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Post by 808ministroke on Aug 4, 2019 21:49:43 GMT -5
These parts are coming off my last rexy block that ran Athena eve on stock gear and crank koso chambered pipe and 28pwk with naroku intake I was able to hit 12000 rpm with light rollers np I are you saying with this same stup with this bore I won’t be able to hit even 12000 rpm with Oem iggyy?
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Post by 808ministroke on Aug 4, 2019 21:51:10 GMT -5
Oh yah and gears are 9.1
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Post by 808ministroke on Aug 5, 2019 1:45:42 GMT -5
No This is no repherence this is not the Honda bore I was talking about that’s still collecting dust
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Post by 808ministroke on Aug 6, 2019 18:45:09 GMT -5
So I’m stilll wondering what to do with the bleeder like valve at top of the head that I have capped off which red cap? Is it something that needs to have a hose attached and led to back of the bike for releasing extra pressure when the expansion tank isn’t close enough or is t for a different sort of temp gauge?
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