|
|
Post by Zino on Feb 24, 2020 19:27:56 GMT -5
Heating the cases is the key
You dont need a ton of heat a heat gun will do .
For those that are taking them out of a running scoot run it down the road for about 5 miles get the trans real warm and a rubber mallet with one or two taps will knock it out .
|
|
|
|
Post by Kenho21 on Feb 24, 2020 21:39:08 GMT -5
Put some heat on the case(propane torch or good heat gun) and the bearing should fall out.. I'll definitely give that a shot. |
|
|
|
Post by chehystpewpur on Feb 27, 2020 20:16:53 GMT -5
if you can get on the outer lip of the bearing its called the race you can help tap it out when you use some heat. if not bearings are cheap and you could just get a new one and use a blind hole puller to get it out. drive.google.com/file/d/0By2rcNqfITkKNFp2ZnNSd3o5X1E/view?usp=sharingon my long case the bearing goes in on the trans side and the seal goes in on the cvt side. if your case looks like that you may be fine.
disregard that i missed the wheel side in previous post.
|
|
|
|
Post by Kenho21 on Mar 4, 2020 12:46:18 GMT -5
Going to be installing the crank tomorrow and I have a question: For the collar that sits around the crankshaft and inside of the oil seal on the variator side, does that collar get installed before or after I pull the crank into place and seal the cases up? Like, does it go into place inside of the cases or from the outside? Usually the crank has a smooth section that will interact with the oil seal. Then there's a spacer that slips over the crank and butts up against that. It would go on after the crank is in. Usually as you are installing the variator or if you use e-start stuff.So if not using e-start, do I still need the spacer or do I omit it for extra room with an over range? |
|
|
|
Post by 90GTVert on Mar 4, 2020 14:24:13 GMT -5
You will still need to space behind an OR vari, because otherwise the vari will ride right up against the case. It's often just a different amount of spacing. The Malossi OR kit comes with a spacer to replace the stock piece. Sometimes it's good and sometimes you need more or less.
|
|
|
|
Post by Kenho21 on Mar 4, 2020 19:04:28 GMT -5
Sad to say, but it's been so long since I actually put one back together now I think I had just forgotten about that haha. Thanks for jogging my memory.
|
|
|
|
Post by ryan_ott on Mar 4, 2020 20:17:19 GMT -5
You may need a few extra MM of shims to get everything happy. I think your similar to what I was using and I had some behind the variator and a few to lengthen the boss. Trial and error.
|
|
|
|
Post by Kenho21 on Mar 4, 2020 21:13:15 GMT -5
You may need a few extra MM of shims to get everything happy. I think your similar to what I was using and I had some behind the variator and a few to lengthen the boss. Trial and error. Yeah, I'll see what's what when I get the over range installed. Just ordered the Polini aluminum over range from ST today since you stole big red from PFS haha. Any tips for mounting this Koso gauge? Just watched how Brent mounts his Vapor in a video. Did you go the same route with epoxying the Kydex and then just screwing in your vapor? |
|
|
|
Post by Kenho21 on Mar 7, 2020 1:20:48 GMT -5
Does anyone happen to have a Polini Corsa wrist pin/piston pin laying around that they could measure the length of for me? I seem to have lost mine and need to order a new one. Pretty sure they're 36mm or 37mm long. This is for a 12mm crank, but I don't think that will matter. It's a Dio piston in a Mina cylinder, so scooter either model would be fine I assume as well.
Can't believe I lost this thing. So careful with this stuff, Must've happened in the move.
|
|
|
|
Post by oldgeek on Mar 7, 2020 6:34:48 GMT -5
Does anyone happen to have a Polini Corsa wrist pin/piston pin laying around that they could measure the length of for me? I seem to have lost mine and need to order a new one. Pretty sure they're 36mm or 37mm long. This is for a 12mm crank, but I don't think that will matter. It's a Dio piston in a Mina cylinder, so scooter either model would be fine I assume as well. Can't believe I lost this thing. So careful with this stuff, Must've happened in the move. I can check for you when I am over at Scootopia a little later today. I may even have a good used one I can send you. |
|
|
|
Post by Kenho21 on Mar 7, 2020 8:07:03 GMT -5
Does anyone happen to have a Polini Corsa wrist pin/piston pin laying around that they could measure the length of for me? I seem to have lost mine and need to order a new one. Pretty sure they're 36mm or 37mm long. This is for a 12mm crank, but I don't think that will matter. It's a Dio piston in a Mina cylinder, so scooter either model would be fine I assume as well. Can't believe I lost this thing. So careful with this stuff, Must've happened in the move. I’d be extremely grateful for either. Thank you! |
|
|
|
Post by Kenho21 on Mar 7, 2020 10:52:25 GMT -5
Does anyone happen to have a Polini Corsa wrist pin/piston pin laying around that they could measure the length of for me? I seem to have lost mine and need to order a new one. Pretty sure they're 36mm or 37mm long. This is for a 12mm crank, but I don't think that will matter. It's a Dio piston in a Mina cylinder, so scooter either model would be fine I assume as well. Can't believe I lost this thing. So careful with this stuff, Must've happened in the move. I can check for you when I am over at Scootopia a little later today. I may even have a good used one I can send you. Never mind! I found it! Had it stuffed away where it didn’t belong. FWIW it’s 36mm lol. |
|
|
|
Post by ryan_ott on Mar 7, 2020 15:06:25 GMT -5
You may need a few extra MM of shims to get everything happy. I think your similar to what I was using and I had some behind the variator and a few to lengthen the boss. Trial and error. Yeah, I'll see what's what when I get the over range installed. Just ordered the Polini aluminum over range from ST today since you stole big red from PFS haha. Any tips for mounting this Koso gauge? Just watched how Brent mounts his Vapor in a video. Did you go the same route with epoxying the Kydex and then just screwing in your vapor? I just used a piece of Kydex heated to form the shape then some JB to hold it in place. The product Goop is a non permanent option to secure it in place. I originally made a bracket to hold everything in place but later permanently attached it. |
|
|
|
Post by Kenho21 on Mar 8, 2020 2:12:43 GMT -5
No spacer is needed. I would recommend some type of loctite between the shaft, cover and bearing. Mine used to separate slightly and end up making the TD rub on the trans cover. Loctite 680 is what I’ve been using, 609 should work also. I’m talking about the bearing in the trans cover not the one inside the trans. I didn't pay too close of attention to which bearing you were talking about until now since I was assembling what I could of the trans while I wait for a seal (incorrect seal was supplied in the kit I bought, so ordered OEM from Partzilla). By the time I read your post, I had already installed that bearing in the cover. Guess I'll just cross my fingers. I don't think I have another os the same type on-hand to take it out and try again. Probably be ordering one now since it sounds like I may be needing it haha. |
|
|
|
Post by Kenho21 on Mar 9, 2020 7:26:33 GMT -5
Had a little time lately between calling-off from work and spring break at school. Got an order in from Scooter Tuning, among other places. I really need to take a pic of all the parts I have gathered for this thing over the past several months, it's fairly impressive and equally scary for my pocket book haha. Also, have come up with a color scheme and look I will be going for with this thing. I think it's gonna look pretty sweet. I started out by replacing the throttle cable, adding Ryan's Homemade Cable Stop™, brake cable, and lubing all the cables. Here's a pic of the throttle cable for no real reason. It's blue and the best looking part of the scoot at the moment.  I then shifted my attention to mounting the Koso dash gauge that I bought. I cut a piece of Kydex that fits the rear of the fairing piece which holds the display and JB Welded it in thoroughly and let it cure for 24 hours. Looked super good. Then, I went to take a picture of it to post on the forum and dropped it about a foot onto my workbench and it flew right off hahaha! Maybe I need to rough up the plastic first in order to give it something to stick to...  I installed the starter and oil pump block-off kits I purchased. I had to cut some of the bolts and find a few different things to plug some of the holes, but a few trips to the hardware store served me well.    Next I decided to get the crank installed, which went smoothly... for the first half. I got it into the variator side no problem and was feeling confident. Then I went to mount it to the other side, just as Brent posted in his recent TPR video, by heating and cooling and then slipping the case half with onto the crankshaft with bearing installed on the other side and it didn't work. So, I broke out the crank installation tool and this happened... did not press in evenly at all.  Eventually I got the bearing in evenly squared with my press and was able to slide the case half, with bearing installed, over and onto the crank with the hot/cold method.  All in all, things went well enough. Two questions: 1. While pressing the bearing into the case, there was, ahem, an incident where things went flying and one of the mating surfaces on my small case half got a ding. I think it will still seal well, but wanted to check with you folks as well. What do you think?  2. After I installed the crank, it spun freely and felt good. Then, once I installed the crank seals, there was a decent bit of resistance when turning the crank. I assume this is normal, but wanted to run it past you as well. It still spins and doesn't require an unreasonable amount of effort, but I wouldn't call it "freely" anymore. This is normal, right? |
|
