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Post by tsimi on May 6, 2020 1:27:55 GMT -5
Kenho21 regarding your kickstarter issue. Remove that thing that grabs around the small cog/gear. (red arrow)Add grease inside the groove (blue arrow) where that thing (red arrow) usually would sit. Add grease inside the whole groove all around. Also add some grease around that pin (yellow arrow) where the small cog/gear sits on. So that the small cog can turn smoothly. Hope that makes sense. 
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Post by 190mech on May 6, 2020 5:35:36 GMT -5
Sounds rich,dont think fuel should be in vacuum line,,if all was well the engine would falter if big adjustments were made on the pilot mixture screw..Its getting too much fuel from somewhere!
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Post by geoffh on May 6, 2020 9:25:19 GMT -5
Looking at the picture tismi used there's a gap between quadrant and the boss that the spring surrounds that does not look quite right,on the other side of the case there should be a washer under the circlip have you missed it?
Geoff
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Post by Kenho21 on May 6, 2020 9:59:33 GMT -5
Kenho21 regarding your kickstarter issue. Remove that thing that grabs around the small cog/gear. (red arrow)Add grease inside the groove (blue arrow) where that thing (red arrow) usually would sit. Add grease inside the whole groove all around. Also add some grease around that pin (yellow arrow) where the small cog/gear sits on. So that the small cog can turn smoothly. Hope that makes sense. Makes perfect sense. Thanks a lot Tsimi. I'll get on it shortly. |
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Post by Kenho21 on May 6, 2020 10:03:52 GMT -5
Sounds rich,dont think fuel should be in vacuum line,,if all was well the engine would falter if big adjustments were made on the pilot mixture screw..Its getting too much fuel from somewhere! I was thinking it was lean, here's why: The idle/fuel screw is turned out about 6 turns, the air/fuel screw is turned out 1 turn, I have a hanging idle and sometimes it'll just sit at 4k RPM as if I'm holding the throttle there and the the plug has almost no color on the base at the end of the threads surrounding the electrode. So I was going to start taking things off and trying a pressure test. Do you think I should try something else first? As far as some fuel traveling up the vacuum line, I have zero ideas other than a bad petcock? |
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Post by Kenho21 on May 6, 2020 10:05:15 GMT -5
Looking at the picture tismi used there's a gap between quadrant and the boss that the spring surrounds that does not look quite right,on the other side of the case there should be a washer under the circlip have you missed it? Geoff Looking at the picture tismi used there's a gap between quadrant and the boss that the spring surrounds that does not look quite right,on the other side of the case there should be a washer under the circlip have you missed it? Geoff Are you talking about a gap right here? I believe there is a washer on the other side, but I can check.  |
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Post by geoffh on May 6, 2020 14:34:20 GMT -5
Yes thats the gap I have not got,it does show a washer on the parts diagram but no sizes listed .
Geoff
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Post by oldgeek on May 6, 2020 17:04:50 GMT -5
I have not been following this as I should, but I also think it is rich. I think you are using the 19mm CP carb? I don't know anything about the CP, but if it were a 19mm PHBG, I would say a 96MJ is way big. A MJ anything more than a size or two away from the correct size can affect your entire range. Also as you tune low end you must keep the motor cleared out and up to temp somewhat, which can be difficult to do since you are trying to just get it rideable. I try to get the MJ correct by riding and looking at temp, then I move on to idle and mid.
IMO carb tuning is tough, sometimes you can be soooo far away, make a VERY small change that makes things a lot better. And sometimes you work on the tune all day and you are no better than when you started, I have been there many many times.
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Post by ryan_ott on May 6, 2020 17:26:42 GMT -5
I’d agree with the jetting. I don’t think many of us have used that carb so you may have to experiment to find what works best. For comparison with a phbg 21mm I was running a 86-88mj on a similar cylinder. Currently on a Evo cylinder and using a 92. I’d worry more about getting the mid range, cruising area correct. That’s the killer..
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Post by Kenho21 on May 6, 2020 17:35:12 GMT -5
Thanks for the input gentlemen. I was just about to head outside and start tearing the shrouds and junk off to do a leak test. I’m gonna throw a 86 or so main in there and see how it behaves. The CP carb is very similar to the stock Carbs as far as I can tell. Some small differences, but pretty similar in jetting and design, so if that’s you’re guy’s feeling, I’ll go with it. I should know to just do what 190mech says without questioning it lol. I’ll report back. |
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Post by 190mech on May 6, 2020 18:10:10 GMT -5
Yep to the posts above!!Too high of float level,or some trash getting between the needle and seat will cause funky idle issues,then the slide must be raised to keep it running which opens the transition port which makes it run even richer!..  OR maybe your vacuum petcock is causing the issue letting fuel past its diaphragm.. |
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Post by oldgeek on May 6, 2020 18:17:24 GMT -5
....................... OR maybe your vacuum petcock is causing the issue letting fuel past its diaphragm.. Very good point John! Pull the vac line at the carb Ken and see if fuel comes out. |
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Post by Kenho21 on May 6, 2020 22:20:47 GMT -5
Yes thats the gap I have not got,it does show a washer on the parts diagram but no sizes listed . Geoff Turns out I do have the washer on the other side, the shaft on that gear is just quite a bit longer than the stock one for some reason. I may clean the stock one up and use it or order a new one. tsimi A little grease seems to have resolved the issue. Thanks sir. |
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Post by Kenho21 on May 6, 2020 22:37:41 GMT -5
I'll check the vacuum line tomorrow. I think it's good though. It's clear so I can see what's going on inside of it and a little fuel has been coming up the tube from that carb, but that's it. That may have been cured by leaning it out too. I'll have to check that tomorrow as well. I ran out of daylight today.
You guys were right! I dropped down to an 86 MJ and it got much better. Then, I went down to an 82 MJ and it was about the same as far as idle, but engine temps climbed much quicker when at a stop and when cruising at ¼ish throttle it was breaking up and cutting out a bit. I put and 84 MJ in and called it a night. I didn't feel like putting all the body panels back on in the dark to try another ride. Cruising temps with all jetting I tried today were ~155 F - 170 F.
The idle has smoothed out significantly, but is still far from perfect. I'm still having to unscrew the fuel/idle screw a bunch to get it to settle down at all. The air screw is still roughly one or two turns out. This may show my noobness, but when I unscrew the fuel/idle screw, doesn't the slide usually raise on most carbs? And I am talking about the fuel screw that controls the slide, not air screw. On my carb when I unscrew the fuel/idle screw it lowers the slide and when I tighten it, it raises the slide.
I have a 38 PJ right now, but I think I may have to downjet to a 36 PJ.
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Post by 190mech on May 7, 2020 0:06:40 GMT -5
The idle SPEED screw bears against a wedge machined into the slide,when screwed IN it raises the slide and RPM..Idle MIXTURE screw(yours is an AIR screw as its located at the front of the carb),IN richens the mixture,here is a similar carb manual that explains how it all works; www.mikuni.com/pdf/vmmanual.pdf |
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OR maybe your vacuum petcock is causing the issue letting fuel past its diaphragm..