|
|
Post by Kenho21 on May 7, 2020 16:44:45 GMT -5
So I pulled the slide out and the idle speed screw and then put it back together and it seems to have fixed whatever the issue was. Still not sure what was going on there as far reverse operation... I have a new throttle cable on the way because this one seems very finicky, so maybe that has something to do with it.
Went for a little ride and it feels better than it was, but the engine is working super hard. I'm at around 11k RPM doing 35ish mph and there's not much left when I twist the throttle the rest of the way. It cuts out ¼-½ throttle and I think I have detonation around there too. Not sure exactly where I should go from here, but let me know what you guys think. I'm thinking I should raise the needle a notch to richen the midrange a bit? Cruising temps around ~165F - 180F.
I switched from 5gr to 6gr rollers to try and bring the RPM's down, but that doesn't seem to have helped much at all. Should I lighten my rollers? White contra spring?
Current setup
Carb:
34PJ
84MJ
Needle: 3/5
Over range:
Yellow Malossi contra
Medium clutch springs, tensioned ~20% w/clutch adjustment screws
6gr rollers
0.5mm spacer of variator boss
|
|
|
|
Post by 190mech on May 7, 2020 20:45:18 GMT -5
Sounds like youve got a lot going on there!Guess I'll answer this with questions;
Did you check for full variator travel by sharpy striping the drive face?
Is the 'detonation' you hear really a rich sputter or B-B's rattling around in a can sound?
Does the engine 'get on the pipe'?
Your temps seem quite cool,like its still rich..Did you check your float level?
PS,Sorry I missed your PM earlier,its been a long day and I hit the sack early!
|
|
|
|
Post by Kenho21 on May 7, 2020 21:15:47 GMT -5
Sounds like youve got a lot going on there!Guess I'll answer this with questions; Did you check for full variator travel by sharpy striping the drive face? Is the 'detonation' you hear really a rich sputter or B-B's rattling around in a can sound? Does the engine 'get on the pipe'? Your temps seem quite cool,like its still rich..Did you check your float level? PS,Sorry I missed your PM earlier,its been a long day and I hit the sack early! Not a problem John. I appreciate the response. To answer your questions: I did check the variator and had far from full travel. I just dropped in 5.5gr weights and my top speed got a little better, still very slow at high revs though. Here's a pic of what my belt travel was like with 6gr weights. Then I switched to 3.9gr weights and revs just went even higher. So now I'm at 5.5gr, but still doesn't feel like full belt travel and revs are around 11k doing 30ish. I have up to 7gr tuning weights I can try, but I never thought I would need weights that high on a 70cc street kit.  The detonation I thought I was hearing was like a fast pinging more akin tom BB's I would say. I've since switched the jets and needle around and am not worried about that instance anymore. The revs are so high that it's basically "on the pipe" from takeoff. I never get the feeling of hitting the pipe. It's "GO!" from the time I twist the throttle. I have medium clutch springs in with no tension right now, but I think I'm going to drop to soft springs and add some tension. It's pretty on/off kind of throttle right now. Not much in between. Temps have been pretty steady around there, but to be honest I wasn't sure what is considered cool or not. This is my first time having a temp gauge and my first semi-successful BBK, so I don't have much of a baseline or reference aside from videos which only mean so much. Would cruising and idle temps over 200F be more normal? I did check my float level when I assembled the carb previously, but haven't since it's been running. I can though. Here's kinda where I'm at now in a nutshell: I think I'm still rich and plan on dropping from a 36PJ the 34PJ. Currently at an 82MJ, which feels good, might move up to an 84MJ later, but will keep it at 82MJ for now. I'm on the second (2/5) from top notch on the needle. I think I will drop down to 3/5 on the needle to richen mid-throttle a bit and because that's closer to where I started so will give better reference for the change in PJ. Think I'm heading in the right direction? The CVT... I really don't know. Lighter clutch springs for an earlier launch and heavier weights is my best guess. This over range really seems to behave differently than my stock setups did. |
|
|
|
Post by Kenho21 on May 7, 2020 21:19:14 GMT -5
Also, is it normal to get this layer of fuzz with a new Malossi belt? Maybe my CVT's were never clean enough to notice before...  |
|
|
|
Post by ryan_ott on May 7, 2020 21:27:49 GMT -5
Cruising temps I’m used to seeing 260-280, sometimes a tad over 3 depending on the tune. Below 200 is very cool. Either jetting, plugs type or even ignition related if you’ve changed anything there.
If you squeeze the rear pulley can you get both halves to touch as to make sure nothing is binding with the spring? Also carefully check that the movable half isn’t bottoming out on the clutch or bell. That happens sometimes.
|
|
|
|
Post by Kenho21 on May 7, 2020 21:55:45 GMT -5
I haven't messed with the ignition at all, so my guess is I'm still rich. I'm running an NGK BR9ES plug, which is what I thought would be appropriate. Think I shoulder order some BR8ES's?
I'll have to check the pulley tomorrow. Something funky has to be up because my over range has no range at all right now.
Sucks that it's gonna be in the 40's and 50's in my area the rest of the week. I'm working outside now. Not lugging this thing up or down stairs again.
|
|
|
|
Post by 190mech on May 8, 2020 5:42:23 GMT -5
If the contra spring is too stiff,it wont allow the TD to open fully..Seen folks here use the stock spring with best results..  |
|
|
|
Post by Kenho21 on May 8, 2020 6:01:45 GMT -5
Yeah, if I don’t see anything making contact, I’ll have to try a white spring next.
|
|
|
|
Post by krisgenchev on May 8, 2020 11:43:16 GMT -5
Yeah, if I don’t see anything making contact, I’ll have to try a white spring next. [br I am running white Malossi on the TP 220mm Torque with Stage6 Streetrace and Yasuni R, so far i've been happy with it. 65mph+ |
|
|
|
Post by Kenho21 on May 8, 2020 11:49:14 GMT -5
Good to know. We have pretty similar setups, so maybe that's my issue.
|
|
|
|
Post by Kenho21 on May 10, 2020 7:08:18 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by geoffh on May 10, 2020 9:01:28 GMT -5
I don't,t think we have heard from anyone who has tried these, but cycle brake repair kits offer a solution to exact cable length required for "modded" set ups.
Geoff
|
|
|
|
Post by ryan_ott on May 10, 2020 9:30:29 GMT -5
You could try removing the backing nuts at the adjustment points for extra slack, or try different style carb attachments. A dremel works great to cut them out.
|
|
|
|
Post by Kenho21 on May 10, 2020 9:58:32 GMT -5
Alright, looks like I have some figuring to do. I may even be able to trim some of the adjustment couplers or something. This throttle cable has been such a PITA. I'm glad you recommended the Kydex for the false seat bucket though ryan_ott . I was able to heat the bottom and mold a bump into it so that I could run my current cable straight out of the top, but I really need a 90 on it. |
|
|
|
Post by ryan_ott on May 10, 2020 10:38:08 GMT -5
Treatland has a nice selection of cable adjusters.
|
|
