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Post by aeroxbud on May 10, 2020 10:48:09 GMT -5
I have had to mix and match adjusters before to get the right length. Can't you use your original right angle with one of the cables?
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Post by Kenho21 on May 10, 2020 12:14:22 GMT -5
Treatland has a nice selection of cable adjusters. I'm always ready to order from Treatland just for the sweet stickers they send haha.  |
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Post by Kenho21 on May 10, 2020 12:52:00 GMT -5
I have had to mix and match adjusters before to get the right length. Can't you use your original right angle with one of the cables? Problem with my first (and I suspect second) cable is that using any angled adapters is taking up too much slack. I'll have to look at the original cable, but from what I remember, they wouldn't work. Between the three cables and three adjusters, I gotta be able to figure something out. I'll post my solution in the thread. |
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Post by Kenho21 on May 12, 2020 11:58:30 GMT -5
So yesterday I worked on the scoot a bit and went to start it up and see how any changes I made helped and the kickstart lever teeth stripped pretty badly. The previous owner had them chowdered up pretty well and it had been starting to go before this, but it bit the dust yesterday. The threads for the screw are stripped as well as the teeth that grip the shaft teeth. I've had one on order for a few weeks now because I saw this coming, but Partzilla has been backed up because of the pandemic. It should be here soon though. In the meantime, I may be able to do some shimming or something to at least get it started and I do have an extra shaft gear the goes into the CVT, so if I can get this thing on there in any way, whether it's useable or not later doesn't matter. I've also got Dumpster Scooter to keep me busy. I also messed with the rear pulley a little and here's what's going on: I removed the contra spring completely and lifted the pulley so that it was completely open and at the very very top (maybe last couple mm of travel) it does make contact with the clutch. However, when I have a contra spring installed it seems to stop before it opens to that point. It doesn't feel like it's making contact or anything, just feels like that's as much as the spring wants to compress. I don't think the belt would rest in the bottom of the pulley though. Does this mean I should do some shimming to allow it to open to those couple mm of travel? If so, what can I use as shims that have a large enough inside diameter to fit around the rear pulley threads? Seems like any washer with that diameter is going to be quite thick as well. FWIW here’s some pics with a white spring installed.    |
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Post by 90GTVert on May 12, 2020 13:12:25 GMT -5
PM me an address and these can show up in your mailbox if you want them. I made them when I was fiddling with my aluminum OR pulley. 2 different thicknesses. They may need a few minutes of finish work with sandpaper or a file, but good luck finding washers this size. They're enough fun to make on the lathe that I'd probably buy a tuning kit of them myself if someone knows who sells them.  |
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Post by Kenho21 on May 12, 2020 14:20:20 GMT -5
PM me an address and these can show up in your mailbox if you want them. I made them when I was fiddling with my aluminum OR pulley. 2 different thicknesses. They may need a few minutes of finish work with sandpaper or a file, but good luck finding washers this size. They're enough fun to make on the lathe that I'd probably buy a tuning kit of them myself if someone knows who sells them. You're a scooter saint. |
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Post by ryan_ott on May 12, 2020 15:47:09 GMT -5
The only place that I know of that makes the actual shims is KN in Japan they come in .3 and .5mm. Had an old package but can’t find it now. You may just need the kicker pawl, the castle piece on the end of the crank. That’s if it wasn’t replaced already. The contra spring may be binding up also. There is a plastic piece that keeps the spring centered so it doesn’t bind up.
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Post by Kenho21 on May 12, 2020 19:55:26 GMT -5
The only place that I know of that makes the actual shims is KN in Japan they come in .3 and .5mm. Had an old package but can’t find it now. You may just need the kicker pawl, the castle piece on the end of the crank. That’s if it wasn’t replaced already. The contra spring may be binding up also. There is a plastic piece that keeps the spring centered so it doesn’t bind up. It's the actual teeth on the gear with the arm that fits through the CVT cover and the kickstart foot lever itself that's stripped. I think the kicker gear with the shaft that slides through the CVT cover may be useable, but the actual kickstart lever itself is totally screwed really. I may be able to tap the threads on it and get it to synch down for a few good kicks though. As far as the rear pulley goes, I did have one of those plastic rings on the spring side that sits in the clutch, but I just removed it to see if I got anymore travel out of the rear pulley without it. I'm not sure it made much difference. I'm hoping with those shims Brent was kind enough to send my way, my issues will be resolved as far as fitment goes. Feels so close yet so far with this damn thing. Glad I got to go on a ride on Dumpster Scoot today.  |
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Post by oldgeek on May 12, 2020 20:05:19 GMT -5
The only place that I know of that makes the actual shims is KN in Japan they come in .3 and .5mm. Had an old package but can’t find it now............ Stop looking for them, you sent them to me! LoL |
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Post by Kenho21 on May 12, 2020 20:45:43 GMT -5
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Post by ryan_ott on May 12, 2020 21:03:27 GMT -5
The only place that I know of that makes the actual shims is KN in Japan they come in .3 and .5mm. Had an old package but can’t find it now............ Stop looking for them, you sent them to me! LoL Don’t reveal that info someone might ask you for them ⬆️ |
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Post by ryan_ott on May 12, 2020 21:07:49 GMT -5
Those should work but the ones everyone was using had the flat sides shaped to the spacer. Maybe tsimi recalls the part number. |
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Post by Kenho21 on May 12, 2020 21:38:49 GMT -5
Stop looking for them, you sent them to me! LoL Don’t reveal that info someone might ask you for them ⬆️ Brent has a couple on the way, so I'm not begging for spacers quite yet. I'm thinking his should work out well. I'll probably order a set of those from webike just to have on-hand though. |
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Post by 90GTVert on May 12, 2020 22:44:27 GMT -5
Don’t reveal that info someone might ask you for them ⬆️ Brent has a couple on the way, so I'm not begging for spacers quite yet. I'm thinking his should work out well. I'll probably order a set of those from webike just to have on-hand though. What I sent is quite a bit thicker than 0.3-0.5mm. Didn't measure them and had never used them. Probably more like 1-1.5mm. Both are a little different. I've used different amounts, depending on the exact setup, so they may be too thick for your needs. I'm sure you could find some way to thin one a little if it's close, but it probably won't be fun. I had to rely on starting to part on the lathe and then measuring what was actually going to be left and facing as needed. (I can't part with great accuracy and once they are parted off I can't really do much with them in the lathe.) |
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Post by Kenho21 on May 12, 2020 23:02:47 GMT -5
I’m thinking I’ll need 1mm or thereabouts, so I should be able to make them work. Worst comes to worse, I’ll sand them down a bit. I’m assuming they’re steel?
The only thing I’m worried about is how many threads will be left for the large pulley nut after spacers. There’s not a whole lot of wiggle room there.
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