|
|
Post by Zino on Dec 4, 2019 8:48:57 GMT -5
I used simply green full strength and lots of scrubbing
|
|
|
|
Post by ryan_ott on Dec 4, 2019 13:59:41 GMT -5
You might need to file that center pin some for it to come out, the end looks mushroomed in the picture.
|
|
|
|
Post by Kenho21 on Dec 4, 2019 14:21:37 GMT -5
You might need to file that center pin some for it to come out, the end looks mushroomed in the picture. Yeah, that's what I was trying to show. It's definitely mushroomed a bit. I'm thinking of just trying to cut the other side off, but not sure I'll be able to do it without a grinding or cutting wheel. I just have either a Dremel or hacksaw. Either may take some time... |
|
|
|
Post by Kenho21 on Dec 4, 2019 14:22:10 GMT -5
Maybe I'll try hitting it with the file first. I dunno
|
|
|
|
Post by geoffh on Dec 4, 2019 15:59:55 GMT -5
Kenho,I have had this problem with the pin,my stand had worn a groove in the pin so that when I pounded on the pin I was pushing the pin and stand against the case and mushrooming the pin,I had to cut the pin flush and lever the stand off,not easy.
Geoff
|
|
|
|
Post by aeroxbud on Dec 4, 2019 16:04:43 GMT -5
On my vertical engine. One side is cast into the cases. Never make it easy for you do they?
|
|
|
|
Post by Kenho21 on Dec 4, 2019 16:57:12 GMT -5
Done.  |
|
|
|
Post by chehystpewpur on Dec 5, 2019 14:24:29 GMT -5
im glad you cut that pesky leech off. sooner or later they just get in the way of exhaust catch on the tire when they fall off or take the back tire off the ground on a good corner. if you cant get whats left in the case out and want it out there are a few simplish ways you can go about it. if you have a hack saw you could cut one side off very close to the case and try tapping it out. if you can heat the case around it it will help to get it out much easier. though id most likely just now worry about it too much.
on the cleaning side though if you really want to clean up the aluminum and make it look good again buy some steel wool. its way better than sand paper as the abrasive doesnt fall off anfd get everywhere. steel is harder than aluminum so its like forever good sand paper. if you have a good drill and can get a wire blush/wire wheel attachment for it they are cheap and easy to find. that could make for pretty quick work in nooks and crannies. then you dont have to freeze yourself in the car wash if you dont want to.
|
|
|
|
Post by Kenho21 on Dec 6, 2019 7:52:07 GMT -5
I'll take a pic later, but I got the cases all cleaned up and have started sanding, steel wooling, and filing a bit. The cases are definitely a bit corroded, but all of the mating surfaces are in good shape, so I think they're still usable. I've been strongly debating buying new cases though. Maybe when I post some pics later I could get some feedback from you folks about it? I don't really care that they look brand new or anything, just that they stand the test of time.
|
|
|
|
Post by Kenho21 on Dec 6, 2019 7:59:36 GMT -5
Also, I bought that $80 bench top press from Harbor Freight for pressing out my gears and it works great in case anyone was wondering haha.
|
|
|
|
Post by chehystpewpur on Dec 6, 2019 11:43:11 GMT -5
dont buy new cases. your just gonna end up with a different set of problems. if its a factory yama motor you have one of the better sets of cases you can get. chances are youll end up with some sort of chinarelli cases and parts wont fit the same and youll end up having parts you cant use most likely. cases rarely go bad unless they crack or break and the inside is really the most important part. a few missing cvt cover bolts wont be the end of the world and neither will a fan shroud bolt being useless. youll be alot happier in the end knowing you built this motor and you will be much more familiar with it in the end so when something does happen youll know what and why it did. which will make trouble shooting much better. plus lets be honest here the scoot will pry fall apart around that motor before the cases become a problem.
my bike had a very nice long case when i built my motor and i went to build and swap my motor a few times after work but kept having part issues due to my bike being strange. i bought another case so i could assemble it and just swap it when the parts fit finally and lets just say the case wasnt the same quality. the case is physically smaller everywhere including the insides. the trans cover even cracked on that case trying to install the gears ugh. so now im running a combination of 2 motors to have a running bike. yes it lasted 10k miles and it makes great power and goes pretty fast for a scoot but the case is limiting my power for sure. i also think the trans is dragging some as and causing issues there too. im going to swap parts into my aprilia case as im pretty sure its a better case than the one im using and the orig case plus it has disc rear brakes and is 1 matched case. i know for sure the years and model the case is from so i can actually order parts i know should fit for it and there will be many less worms in the can every time i open it from that point on.
if you are dead set on new cases make sure you try to get as close to factory cases as possible or upgraded but at the cost for some malossi cases you could just buy a 90cc atv case swap what you need over and have a stout motor out of the box.
|
|
|
|
Post by Kenho21 on Dec 6, 2019 12:28:30 GMT -5
dont buy new cases. your just gonna end up with a different set of problems. if its a factory yama motor you have one of the better sets of cases you can get. chances are youll end up with some sort of chinarelli cases and parts wont fit the same and youll end up having parts you cant use most likely. cases rarely go bad unless they crack or break and the inside is really the most important part. a few missing cvt cover bolts wont be the end of the world and neither will a fan shroud bolt being useless. youll be alot happier in the end knowing you built this motor and you will be much more familiar with it in the end so when something does happen youll know what and why it did. which will make trouble shooting much better. plus lets be honest here the scoot will pry fall apart around that motor before the cases become a problem. my bike had a very nice long case when i built my motor and i went to build and swap my motor a few times after work but kept having part issues due to my bike being strange. i bought another case so i could assemble it and just swap it when the parts fit finally and lets just say the case wasnt the same quality. the case is physically smaller everywhere including the insides. the trans cover even cracked on that case trying to install the gears ugh. so now im running a combination of 2 motors to have a running bike. yes it lasted 10k miles and it makes great power and goes pretty fast for a scoot but the case is limiting my power for sure. i also think the trans is dragging some as and causing issues there too. im going to swap parts into my aprilia case as im pretty sure its a better case than the one im using and the orig case plus it has disc rear brakes and is 1 matched case. i know for sure the years and model the case is from so i can actually order parts i know should fit for it and there will be many less worms in the can every time i open it from that point on. if you are dead set on new cases make sure you try to get as close to factory cases as possible or upgraded but at the cost for some malossi cases you could just buy a 90cc atv case swap what you need over and have a stout motor out of the box. If I did buy cases, I was going to order OEM for sure. Scooter Tuning said they have some really nice long cases in right now too. |
|
|
|
Post by ryan_ott on Dec 6, 2019 15:54:43 GMT -5
You can get the OEM cases for around $150 free ship with partzilla. The last time I got them they took awhile to arrive because they come from Taiwan. Exact same as the original cases. They are bare cases only the pivot tube bearings and shock bushing are installed, not even the bushing for the electric start. If you use it still you’ll have to order that separate.
|
|
|
|
Post by Kenho21 on Dec 6, 2019 17:01:26 GMT -5
You can get the OEM cases for around $150 free ship with partzilla. The last time I got them they took awhile to arrive because they come from Taiwan. Exact same as the original cases. They are bare cases only the pivot tube bearings and shock bushing are installed, not even the bushing for the electric start. If you use it still you’ll have to order that separate. Yeah right on. That’s why it’s so tempting. Nice fresh new cases and no pain in the ass for $150. I’ve already spent almost two grand total on this build between tools and parts though, not including the price of the bike, and I’m trying to slow down a bit. Got a vacation coming up and another tattoo. I think I’ll be fine with these cases for at least a year or so, if not longer. Might get a set later and do another build to just drop in some day. Orrr I could order some cases for the Dio I acquired and take my time with a nice build on that. Just need to figure out what size tires it can run as that’s my main motivator for purchasing/building/adding to the collection another scoot right now. Michigan roads are some of the worst in the country and my girlfriend is riding around on a Jog with 3.5x10s. Not safe. |
|
|
|
Post by ryan_ott on Dec 6, 2019 20:50:14 GMT -5
The Elites I think 90X90/10 is the max. That’s what I used to run.
|
|
