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Post by captincvmn on Nov 16, 2022 6:15:35 GMT -5
Picture of broken screws and area please?
Hardened screws/bolts are tricky to remove sometimes
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Post by aeroxbud on Nov 16, 2022 6:26:42 GMT -5
Why didn't you have any luck? Are the threads damaged now?
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Post by 808ministroke on Nov 18, 2022 0:37:10 GMT -5
I was checking out time serts since I haven't had luck with hel I coils b4 and was shocked at how much kit costs. so I'm gonna just try and tap in bigger threads, I have one whole drilled out to m6 , so will probably have to go bigger. the other one that Stull Has bolt in it the bolt cracked upon working it to try and remove it so I think I can get that one out saving the threads.
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Post by captincvmn on Nov 18, 2022 4:59:42 GMT -5
A very sharp new bit and an “easy out” of the correct size should do it. A quality easy out kit comes with left hand twist drill bits so beware of spin direction for the drill. Don’t cheap out on removal because cases aren’t cheap either. New bit, push hard, drill slow rpm, cutting oil on bit
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Post by 808ministroke on Nov 18, 2022 17:12:23 GMT -5
so you go reverse on the left hand bits?
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Post by aeroxbud on Nov 19, 2022 5:07:33 GMT -5
so you go reverse on the left hand bits? Yes, and sometimes it you are lucky. The drill biting into the bolt will actually undo it.👍
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Post by 808ministroke on Dec 5, 2022 23:12:40 GMT -5
First ever helicoil install And I finaly got out the pesky bolt that was rounded off and impossible for me after trying every reverse or extractor bit that they make I finaly was able to rid it with two tiny holes a small flat head a hammer and ALO T OF WILLPOWER AND DETERMINATION.
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Post by 808ministroke on Dec 23, 2022 19:59:03 GMT -5
So I got the Ignition all dialed in bike is running really good except for wide open throttle in longer pools, The cap that goes on top of the Power jet came off I tried to plug it with a new screw but for some reason feel as though fuel may be leaking out of the top aperture on wide open throttle. But on the same note I have been talking to the mechanic from motor source and he has a genuine PWK that he'll sell me with an adapter and a filter for 175 and I really want to jump on it because this would be the 1st genuine carb I ever owned I don't consider the polini a genuine carb as it failed me eventually. Only Quandree is Is that A 33 millimeter, The specs say that the minimum carb size for this application should be 28 so a 33 should be workable yes? I know it will be much harder to tune and also won't be as easy to ride around town but may benefit me for long straight away's let me know guys what you think is a 33 will weigh too much overkill will it hurt my performance badly if I make the switch cause I really want to just to have a real carb in my hands for once that I can count on the slide not flaking or some other unknown Manufacturing error.
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Post by 808ministroke on Dec 30, 2022 8:01:43 GMT -5
Ok so I got myself a Christmas present which is the only way you can get them when your older fyi. I went ahed and purchsed a GENUINE KEHIN 33mm PWK. PURchased frokm George (motorsource) for 175 with a intake adapter that i cant currently use and a brand new double stage filter. He said he did put gas in it once but never was ran. Looks really good quality is what I would expect it to be and i love the screw on cap and the screw in needle retainer both make it that much easeir to "toon" . . . Any way im stilll waiting on the proper adapter so i can run the carb but today I atempted to mount it and try and start it with a boot i had ~glued~ bak 2gether and it leaked alot of fuel, seemed to revv really nice until the glue stoped working so will report back with pro[-er boot installed hopefully by the weekend. I took the chance to down jet the cxarb i was usin currently a 30mm Knok - off - pwk . When i did wide OPen THrottle runs last weekend it ran extremely rich... I was afraid maybe was overheating but i just got around to hooking up temp gauge again and the thing runs super cool so i feel i can go down even more was a 134 mj now a 132 mj now running better but still rich when i tried to get the bike as hot as i could it went upo only to like 50 or 60 celsius usualy stayed around 48` . I know 33mm is alot but its onlyh 3mm more than what i have know so.... I noticed with a bigger carb its very different in how you open the throttle you really have to wait for it to rev up before going past 1/4 or 1/2 throttle what also works is a slow roll from closed to open. OH and current 30mm has a power jet which may or may not be messing me up, idk because wot is really quite good. 33mm obviously has no pwer jet it came stock with a 160mj which is way bigger than what i am probably gunna end up with. also curious about intake flow since the mixture will hit a sharp wall when exiting carb since intake is not going to be as laRGE any advice or any good intakes that will help with this please let me know guys, will post pics later. --shoots--
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Post by 808ministroke on Dec 30, 2022 21:25:14 GMT -5
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Post by 808ministroke on Jan 13, 2023 19:53:22 GMT -5
Well here are the 2 boats that was holding my stairs plate in, I'm really not impressed with the strength of these 5 V even though they are directly from mallosi or stage 6, They were thread locked in so it was nothing on my end that caused these to break I'm either thinking of welding the d*** plate on or if anybody can point out a site that sells these same boats entertaining are some elusive metal that's way stronger I would buy him even if there were $20 of screw. I really am sad and disappointed that these cases seem to have such a flaw when it comes to state or mounting And I believe it's the same bold pattern for RC ones...
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Post by captincvmn on Jan 13, 2023 22:50:38 GMT -5
Did the bolts vibrate out or break off?
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Post by 190mech on Jan 14, 2023 7:41:05 GMT -5
That is a 10.9 hardness,like a grade 8 for US bolts, should be way strong enough..There must be an issue with the installation,loose attaching flanges,twisted crankshaft,etc..
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Post by 808ministroke on Jan 14, 2023 10:56:32 GMT -5
That is a 10.9 hardness,like a grade 8 for US bolts, should be way strong enough..There must be an issue with the installation,loose attaching flanges,twisted crankshaft,etc.. can you elaborate on that? don't believe I have any sort of imbalance or unevenness on crank....
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Post by 190mech on Jan 14, 2023 16:01:12 GMT -5
Does the stator fit snug on the case adaptor flange around the crank seal area? Do you have all 3 screws attaching it? The magnetic pulses from the spinning rotor within the stator can cause a pretty strong pull on the stator attach area..
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