|
|
Post by 808ministroke on Jan 14, 2023 20:45:58 GMT -5
it does fit snug around crank seal area, I was only using the two screw that I oppose eaxhother like the mvt kit uses.your not referring to the rotor sitting snug are you?
|
|
|
|
Post by pete130 on Apr 22, 2023 0:35:59 GMT -5
Hello fellow ped heads , I am really stoked o. This build have been planning for a while now the goal is to mate a bottom mount Piaggio style malossi hyper race with the team crank (thanks pitobread) on to one of my rexy (minarelli, top mount) frames. I am going for a slightly cleaner look than my last hyper race and not only will this be my first ever PIAGGIO engine, it is literally the second piaggio two stroke I have ever seen in Hawaii. Let alone the fact that it will be on a rexy frame while retaining some fairings and fabricating the bottom mount plus many other twist turns and hopefully revs this build.... Are you useing rc-one case ive seen a new case that can be used on aerox and sr piaggio low mount motor, has both motor mounts, I run the rc-one piaggio cases as I have a sr factory. |
|
|
|
Post by 808ministroke on Apr 24, 2023 17:14:27 GMT -5
Nope using a standard piaggio case.
still held up by the sator bolt situation...
I am thinking of just jb welding stator plate to the case! how long u think that would last, a day ?
|
|
|
|
Post by 808ministroke on Jun 1, 2023 10:45:33 GMT -5
OK so I did some work to try to get my stater mounting holes and threads it back in orbecause that's the only thing holding my bike up.
But I ran into a problem I'm hoping someone on this forum can help me with long story short one of the stater mounting holes I tapped out to an M7 1.0 However I searched far and wide all across the interweb and wasn't able to find a single place that would sell a counter sunk M7 Bolt!!
This is the one thing that's now holding me up simply finding a counter sunk M7 which has proven impossible and I've been searching for a while If anyone can point me in the direction where I could buy this particular bolt I would be eternally grateful and so would my moped, Even if one of you guys has an idea that would allow me to use the current threading in a way that maybe changes the diameter or any other idea at all I would be eternally grateful if 1 of you guys can custom make 1 of these boats for me I would gladly pay whatever price you you think is fair once again my whole engine has been sitting for 6 months And all I need is a specificbolt please guys you guys are great and have helped me along my entire Journey so please point me in the right direction or 2A website that will hold these particular size once again love you guys Can't wait to hear what you come up with 🤙
|
|
|
|
Post by aeroxbud on Jun 1, 2023 14:50:59 GMT -5
You seem to be right. I guess your best bet is to get an M8 and a tap die. Then redo the thread to M7.
You could always buy a longer M8 bolt. Hold the end in an electric drill and sand it till you reach the required thickness. Then cut of the extra length and cut a thread on it if you have no other options.
|
|
|
|
Post by pete130 on Jun 1, 2023 19:13:43 GMT -5
OK so I did some work to try to get my stater mounting holes and threads it back in orbecause that's the only thing holding my bike up. But I ran into a problem I'm hoping someone on this forum can help me with long story short one of the stater mounting holes I tapped out to an M7 1.0 However I searched far and wide all across the interweb and wasn't able to find a single place that would sell a counter sunk M7 Bolt!! This is the one thing that's now holding me up simply finding a counter sunk M7 which has proven impossible and I've been searching for a while If anyone can point me in the direction where I could buy this particular bolt I would be eternally grateful and so would my moped, Even if one of you guys has an idea that would allow me to use the current threading in a way that maybe changes the diameter or any other idea at all I would be eternally grateful if 1 of you guys can custom make 1 of these boats for me I would gladly pay whatever price you you think is fair once again my whole engine has been sitting for 6 months And all I need is a specificbolt please guys you guys are great and have helped me along my entire Journey so please point me in the right direction or 2A website that will hold these particular size once again love you guys Can't wait to hear what you come up with 🤙 As said go to m8 won't have a problem with getting bolts, if it's something that needs to be solid I would even think about getting heli coiled |
|
|
|
Post by pete130 on Jun 2, 2023 0:56:30 GMT -5
Hello fellow ped heads , I am really stoked o. This build have been planning for a while now the goal is to mate a bottom mount Piaggio style malossi hyper race with the team crank (thanks pitobread) on to one of my rexy (minarelli, top mount) frames. I am going for a slightly cleaner look than my last hyper race and not only will this be my first ever PIAGGIO engine, it is literally the second piaggio two stroke I have ever seen in Hawaii. Let alone the fact that it will be on a rexy frame while retaining some fairings and fabricating the bottom mount plus many other twist turns and hopefully revs this build.... Put a rc-one in, its all piaggio internals. |
|
|
|
Post by repherence2 on Jun 3, 2023 12:04:34 GMT -5
OK so I did some work to try to get my stater mounting holes and threads it back in orbecause that's the only thing holding my bike up. But I ran into a problem I'm hoping someone on this forum can help me with long story short one of the stater mounting holes I tapped out to an M7 1.0 However I searched far and wide all across the interweb and wasn't able to find a single place that would sell a counter sunk M7 Bolt!! ...Can't wait to hear what you come up with 🤙
Braddah Joey! nice to see you back, been wondering about you, if you was still alive. never seen you post in a while. anyways, i got a new phone. i know your REXY not so good, but i hope Life's been good for you.
anyways... this is my thoughts...
if the hole is cut to M7, i would try go to the hardware store and look for helicoil insert for a M6 screw. i seen some helicoils at TrueValue Hardware Hawaii. if not, go check out the guy at Aloha Tap and Die in Kalihi, off of Nimitz. the way i see it, if it is the same thread pitch as the previous screw that broke, then a M6 helicoil should work.
So, go to Aloha Tap and Die, and buy a M6 Helicoil kit from him. it comes with the coil size tap, helicoil inserts, and the installation tool. he sells the tap-size drill bits separately. understand this, the tap for an M6 helicoil is larger in diameter than normal tap for M6 hole. i am pretty sure the M6 x 1.0 coil tap is probably close to a M7 x 1.0 tap.
the way i see it, every hole on the casing/block that gets compromised and the treads are damaged, the holes should be fixed with a threaded insert. my reasoning is that in all the large hydraulic actuators i worked on, the body was billet machined aluminum, but all the threaded holes have thread inserts. when i comes to using steel bolts to hold together 3000psi actuators, all threaded holes have steel threaded inserts and steel bolts. in my craft, steel bolts are never directly installed into threaded aluminum holes.
if you need help, hit me up. if you need my number, send me a PM. i got a new phone with reception now.
|
|
|
|
Post by pete130 on Jun 4, 2023 0:43:37 GMT -5
OK so I did some work to try to get my stater mounting holes and threads it back in orbecause that's the only thing holding my bike up. But I ran into a problem I'm hoping someone on this forum can help me with long story short one of the stater mounting holes I tapped out to an M7 1.0 However I searched far and wide all across the interweb and wasn't able to find a single place that would sell a counter sunk M7 Bolt!! ...Can't wait to hear what you come up with 🤙
Braddah Joey! nice to see you back, been wondering about you, if you was still alive. never seen you post in a while. anyways, i got a new phone. i know your REXY not so good, but i hope Life's been good for you.
anyways... this is my thoughts...
if the hole is cut to M7, i would try go to the hardware store and look for helicoil insert for a M6 screw. i seen some helicoils at TrueValue Hardware Hawaii. if not, go check out the guy at Aloha Tap and Die in Kalihi, off of Nimitz. the way i see it, if it is the same thread pitch as the previous screw that broke, then a M6 helicoil should work.
So, go to Aloha Tap and Die, and buy a M6 Helicoil kit from him. it comes with the coil size tap, helicoil inserts, and the installation tool. he sells the tap-size drill bits separately. understand this, the tap for an M6 helicoil is larger in diameter than normal tap for M6 hole. i am pretty sure the M6 x 1.0 coil tap is probably close to a M7 x 1.0 tap.
the way i see it, every hole on the casing/block that gets compromised and the treads are damaged, the holes should be fixed with a threaded insert. my reasoning is that in all the large hydraulic actuators i worked on, the body was billet machined aluminum, but all the threaded holes have thread inserts. when i comes to using steel bolts to hold together 3000psi actuators, all threaded holes have steel threaded inserts and steel bolts. in my craft, steel bolts are never directly installed into threaded aluminum holes.
if you need help, hit me up. if you need my number, send me a PM. i got a new phone with reception now.
Yes I have heli coils in my stud holes just to make sure as I run high tensile studs |
|
|
|
Post by repherence2 on Jun 4, 2023 21:26:08 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by 808ministroke on Jun 5, 2023 23:13:04 GMT -5
thanks Reph! this is gunna have to do, close enough I'll just have to reshape the undersides the head to a taper, but I think it should be manageable. your always great at finding really odd and random bits that the normal person will never be able to dig up, I still have that threaded rod more a Mazda suspension you found and have a good feeling ill need it in the future. The one good thing is I found out that the range stage 6 stator mounting plate is interchangeable with the mallosi one. this is good because I feel the reason I had this failure in first place was do to me widening one of the wholes allowing it to move slightly even toghtened |
|
|
|
Post by 808ministroke on Jun 8, 2023 22:41:34 GMT -5
Thanks again brother REPH2, Think the boat that you gave me a link to is gonna work just fine all I'll have to do is taper the head flange so it's an inlaid instead of a flat head, If you happen to know a good way of doing this let me know I haven't touched it yet but it did just come in the mail an hour ago.
Looks like really good skill too and it was $8 with no shipping fee and got here in 2 days! I'm definitely gonna have to redo the threads in the aluminum or at least deepen them because they don't go all the way to the back at the moment But there's still a piece of a stud in one of the holes I'm gonna drill out right no so let me get to that thank you for putting a spark back in this dream of mine.
|
|
|
|
Post by repherence2 on Jun 9, 2023 9:24:15 GMT -5
Thanks again brother REPH2, Think the boat that you gave me a link to is gonna work just fine all I'll have to do is taper the head flange so it's an inlaid instead of a flat head, If you happen to know a good way of doing this let me know I haven't touched it yet but it did just come in the mail an hour ago. Looks like really good skill too and it was $8 with no shipping fee and got here in 2 days! I'm definitely gonna have to redo the threads in the aluminum or at least deepen them because they don't go all the way to the back at the moment But there's still a piece of a stud in one of the holes I'm gonna drill out right no so let me get to that thank you for putting a spark back in this dream of mine.
no problem Braddah Joey. you helped me out when it was dry, now i got your back. that's how we live Aloha.
be careful on your approach to deepening the hole. you do not want to puncture the case by drilling too deep. if the screw/bolt it too long, you can always shorten the length by filing the end with a file or grinding it back with a grinding wheel/bit or a dremel with a drum sander.
irie-lab idea for taper of head.
put several wraps of masking tape on the threads. chuck up the threaded part of the screw in the drill. the masking tape is to protect the threads from damage from the drill chuck. run the drill and use a file to cut the angle. in essence the drill is you "lathe chuck" and the file is the "tool bit". just remember, files only cut in one direction, pretty much only in the forward direction with the file handle being the back of the file. so you have to have the drill in the proper direction in accordance with the direction in which the file "cuts".
|
|
|
|
Post by 808ministroke on Jun 13, 2023 18:37:55 GMT -5
O love the taper idea imma give it a try!
|
|
|
|
Post by 808ministroke on Jun 14, 2023 0:50:27 GMT -5
do you guys think I couldbget away with adding jb weld to the enlarged holes and then tap for the original m5 bolts?
that way I couldbuse a brand new s6 sator plate that happens to fit this ignition and the matching bolts.
this would elimnate my original issue which I believe was the enlarging of one or two of the wholes on the mallosi plate.
let me know thanks.
|
|
