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Post by aeroxbud on Jun 14, 2023 3:40:39 GMT -5
You could try it, but I wouldn't give it much hope. There is a good reason people use thread inserts to fix bad threads.
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Post by 190mech on Jun 14, 2023 4:17:29 GMT -5
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Post by repherence2 on Jun 14, 2023 20:31:16 GMT -5
do you guys think I couldbget away with adding jb weld to the enlarged holes and then tap for the original m5 bolts? that way I couldbuse a brand new s6 sator plate that happens to fit this ignition and the matching bolts. this would elimnate my original issue which I believe was the enlarging of one or two of the wholes on the mallosi plate. let me know thanks. Brahdder, did you already tap one of the holes to M7 size? In my craft, for your situation, the hole would be plug welded. The hole would be opened up a little bit with a burr grinder and then the hole is filled in with filler metal. After that, machine/file/grind the surface flat. Take the new stator plate and use it to target the new hole to be drilled. However, if your hole is already drilled and tapped for M7 threads, the only way I can see you making it work would be to use a thick wall insert. The solution that came to my mind was to see if an M5 Keensert could be used. Regular Keenserts are much bigger in diameter than a Helicoil. I'm on the bus using my phone now. When I get home and get on the computer I will posts some links/pics. Take your time. Go Easy Easy. No rush. If you need help, hit me up Brahdder. |
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Post by repherence2 on Jun 14, 2023 22:26:14 GMT -5
**i just checked Grainger and they have a listing for M5 key locking threaded insert. it says $32 for a package of 5. we have a Grainger here on Oahu in Mapunapuna. maybe they have it in stock or they can bring it in for you.** |
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Post by 808ministroke on Jun 15, 2023 5:36:14 GMT -5
**i just checked Grainger and they have a listing for M5 key locking threaded insert. it says $32 for a package of 5. we have a Grainger here on Oahu in Mapunapuna. maybe they have it in stock or they can bring it in for you.** i checked brother and the thick walled m5 u sent a link 2 had an outer diameter of 10mm and thin walled version had an outer diameter of m8 1.25 and that wo u ld be too big for the little tabs. I would definitely take you up on your offer if your offering to fill it with metal.... I'm trying to tale it slow but I ts hard. hit me up 782 9206.🤙 |
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Post by 808ministroke on Jun 17, 2023 19:54:24 GMT -5
Well that does it I might as well give up at this point.   Who knows I might have a chance a slim slim chance in hell of making it still work seeing as the 2 opposing threads have a 1% chance of being salvaged and those are the only 2 that the MVT Ignition play even uses so I think I might be able to get away with that especially if I tap the threads to thicker size and actually get I'm halfway no I I mean all the way 100% on the money perfectly aligned and correct... At this point I'm realizing that I'm not the persand capable of doing talking to you ref I Need you man I've been looking at new engine cases and realizing there's no way in hell I could even afford a stock case that would require a lot of fucking machining to even get it to accept the crank and bore that I have on now So it's kind of in just a fantasy world if I don't fix this thing maybe not gonna be writing a 2 stroke for fucking who knows how long  |
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Post by 190mech on Jun 17, 2023 23:58:26 GMT -5
I see that pic and think there are 3 perfect crankcase half M6 screws outboard from that tiny stripped out bolt circle..Remove those bolts, fab up some spacers the exact height of the stator attach plate, drill and countersink the stator plate to match the case holes, find some LONG countersunk M6 screws to attach the whole mess and get back to riding that evil thing!!  |
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Post by 190mech on Jun 18, 2023 19:52:51 GMT -5
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Post by 808ministroke on Jun 19, 2023 18:56:01 GMT -5
can you please explain your first idea in like a drawing in just not quite sure I get what u are saying, feel free to do the plan b aswell.. . and thanks for the input really 🤝
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Post by 190mech on Jun 20, 2023 18:56:34 GMT -5
  This is Plan A, remove the case bolts and measure the exact length from the case bolt mount flange to the stator flange,fab spacers to match that length, mark and drill the stator plate to match the case holes with spacers, countersink the holes and get some long countersunk screws to match the total length of original case bolts + the spacers..Got it? Will get you the Plan B pics tomorrow.. |
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Post by 808ministroke on Jun 21, 2023 4:00:10 GMT -5
can you please explain your first idea in like a drawing in just not quite sure I get what u are saying, feel free to do the plan b aswell.. . and thanks for the input really 🤝 ok thanks so much for the killer presentation, I totally get it and think it's a great idea so would the spacers be threaded then, or does it not even mater? this Idea seems rather possible to! |
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Post by aeroxbud on Jun 21, 2023 5:58:15 GMT -5
I would think you wouldn't want the spacer threaded. You want the bolt to tighten on to the case, not the spacers.
It's a clever solution to the problem. 👍
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Post by 190mech on Jun 23, 2023 17:39:11 GMT -5
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Post by 808ministroke on Jun 23, 2023 20:01:57 GMT -5
I agree I think this is definitely the better option I'm probably going to order those parts you listed, The only thing that sort of worries me is that 2 of the 3 case bolts would just Barely fit into the stater plate end it's diameter well while one of the 3 would only fit in Maybe 2/3 of the way I'll send a picture or post a picture later today to show you what I mean I still think it's Doable though
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Post by 808ministroke on Jul 5, 2023 15:46:41 GMT -5
well I went ahead and ordered those parts you linked, for your plan b. thanks again soooo much.👍   I know these are terrible photos but gives you some sort of idea how much these or how little these case threads overlap the stator plate. |
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