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Post by Lucass2T on Oct 30, 2020 2:21:11 GMT -5
I was also looking into gears and as i have little experience with gears especially on piaggio based engines i was hoping somone could answer these questions.... 1st: In the only seems to be primary ones available. Does it matter what the count of my secondary ones are, or will any new primary ones mash with the current secondary no matter the tooth count? 2nd: If I buy the pre pressed stage 6 gears, would it be any more difficult for different than changing them out on a jog? Read this thread, it might give you some more information. scooterforum.net/threads/vertanding-reductie-factor.83873/1: Primary and secondairy gears don't mesh into each other. They share an axle, not gears. A primary gear set as well as a secondairy gear set are a set of two gears that mesh into each other. So when you buy a set of primaries, thats two gears. You can swap them out regardless of what secondairy gears you have and vice versa. 2: Changing gears on a jog is easy. |
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Post by 808ministroke on Oct 30, 2020 18:58:59 GMT -5
Thank you Lucas for explaining that any secondary gear set can be used with any primary gear set if that is what you are saying I never knew that helps me out a lot.
I looked at the link and it has a lot of information only problem is I don't speak German lolSome my best guess that link was stating that the standard or factory gears a runnerIs 10.5:1 if this is true I'm I just leave the gears the way they are although I thought I Spun the clutch bell to count The Times it took to move the wheel one time and I'm pretty sure I came out with 12 something to 1 all redo this todayTo make sure. I know changing gears in jog is super easy I was asking if it's as easy in this type engine.
On another note I have been experiencing a slight Fogging during Part throttle accelerating and um wondering if it has to do with the fact that I recently switched from 3 oz to 4 oz Of oil per gallon? I'm going back to 3 oz because so much is coming out the exhaust .
I also changed the spark plug to and a radium in the recommended heat range of 10 from a 9 that was not iridium So I'm gonna have to take off the exhaust and see if it's filled with oil because that seems to be like it could be the case And one more question to you guys when I change the fixed half Some a stock to a stage 6 I also noticed that the belt add arrows on it and they were horning in the opposit direction of travel so i corrected it so the arrows point in the direction the engine turns are their belts that need to be placed in one direction or the other or were the arrow simply pointing to the numbers?
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Post by aeroxbud on Oct 30, 2020 19:56:49 GMT -5
The arrows show the direction the belt should go.
If you added more oil without changing the jetting accordingly, it would run leaner.
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Post by 808ministroke on Oct 31, 2020 8:03:50 GMT -5
Its strange engine will sorta hesitate or sputter now like pulse on and off usualy with the sound of oil shooting out my silencer.
I think it may have to do with my ratio of premix and the fact that i switched from 3 oz per gallon of a thinner conventional n synthetic blend to 4oz per gallon of motul 800. I think i went through atleast a tank or two before this started to happe though , just a guess because i would pcasionaly see a spurt of unburnt oil on my exhaust but recently the side of the chamber has been getting painted evry ride.
I also switched from a normal ngk spark plug with a 9 heat rating to the recomended plug with a colder rating of 10 iridium plug.
A few things i have noticed is it hardly ever does yhe stuttering when wide open throttle.
Also it takes a long time fpr tue engine to get warm it seems to not hesitate when fully warmed atleast not nearly as much, also seemed to help when i removed the pod filter so to me my best guess is that the colder plug is making it run richer and colder as if i need to lean ot out with the new plug.
Or it could be unrelated .
I thought maybe weak spark or fuel starvation but it idles perfect and works well when throttle is closed or wide open .....
I even removed the exhaust to see if there was oil clogging pipe but not a drop came out i did notice an exhaust leak which i fixed maybe thats why its running like its extra rich now? The leak before wasnt that bad there was a bunch of oil on frame and case around exhaust area tho
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Post by aeroxbud on Oct 31, 2020 10:22:38 GMT -5
A 10 range plug is not something most people use. My Piaggio uses an 8 NGK equivalent. And most kits seem to be in the 8, or 9 range.
What is the premix ratio your using? 40:1 is normally about right for a high performance kit.
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Post by Lucass2T on Nov 1, 2020 8:09:10 GMT -5
...I don't speak German... It's Dutch...  And did you try this?  |
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Post by 808ministroke on Nov 4, 2020 2:19:50 GMT -5
So sorry i obviously dont speak dutch either lol. Well i tried changing back to the warmer spark plug and the thing is still chugging at any throttle postion other than wide opening, it sorta surges. I thought it seemed like a timing issue so i took of the fly to make sure that it still was proper with the key and everything looked fine, i did notice that the insulation on the stator wires got slightly damgaged, i cant see spark being the issue as it starts first kick i dontt know im stumped.
The only obvious damge was the sliencer is hanging on by a thread and its obviously pointing me in direction of saving for a better pipe, i am really worried though if i got the pipe and it didnt fix it.
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Post by Lucass2T on Nov 4, 2020 4:26:16 GMT -5
Did you already replace the coil, wire and plug boot? Those can cause some real nasty issues even when new out of the box, ask me how I know...  |
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Post by 808ministroke on Nov 4, 2020 17:33:27 GMT -5
Did you already replace the coil, wire and plug boot? Those can cause some real nasty issues even when new out of the box, ask me how I know... Yes i did replace the stator the coil and spark plug wire and boot. Please tell me what your experience was with these systems and if you fixed it how you did , thanks. |
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Post by Lucass2T on Nov 6, 2020 2:48:14 GMT -5
Did you already replace the coil, wire and plug boot? Those can cause some real nasty issues even when new out of the box, ask me how I know...  Please tell me what your experience was with these systems and if you fixed it how you did , thanks. Acting like it's pig rich when it isn't. Thats a seize waiting to happen. Please avoid those silicone plug boots, they're junk. Just go with the oldskool black bakelite (or plastic nowadays) NGK ones. Also use plugs with the big solid 'terminal'. You need a plug boot that has the bigger connetion to accomodate the plug's solid terminal. www.ngk.com/spark-plug-terminal-typesMake sure the coil is very well grounded to the frame. Also ground the motor to the frame. Use only thick gauge wires. |
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Post by 808ministroke on Nov 6, 2020 6:22:28 GMT -5
2nd video is from tonight Andne the first video is from a couple weeks ago when it was running flawless sorry about the bad quality it's namely the to serve as it audio clip so someone can maybe recognize the sound different and help me from destroying this bike
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Post by 808ministroke on Nov 6, 2020 6:40:23 GMT -5
Please tell me what your experience was with these systems and if you fixed it how you did , thanks. Acting like it's pig rich when it isn't. Thats a seize waiting to happen. Please avoid those silicone plug boots, they're junk. Just go with the oldskool black bakelite (or plastic nowadays) NGK ones. Also use plugs with the big solid 'terminal'. You need a plug boot that has the bigger connetion to accomodate the plug's solid terminal. www.ngk.com/spark-plug-terminal-typesMake sure the coil is very well grounded to the frame. Also ground the motor to the frame. Use only thick gauge wires. Thank you I do have a silicone boot but is the ngk solid tip style and I do have a solid terminal iridium plug as far as grounding goes I have one sick grounding cable attached to the engine block Connected twicee to the Frame. Scary you said that seem like it's on the verge of seizing but Better safe than sorry so I'm glad somebody said it . Tell me a few could hear anything in the differences on the tone I posted above Keep note however the 2nd video this silencer was broken and just hanging on by a zip tie but you can hear a few instances of the surging, Sputtering. |
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Post by 808ministroke on Nov 10, 2020 5:12:03 GMT -5
Okay so like i said i went over every connection to cdi changing all of the ends except for the one that had a good indulated female spade.....
Thinking earlier today liyterally tried everything but never changed that oooonee conctetor. Boom boom bittybang she came right back to life! I was worried it was a dreadful air leak, clogged exhaust, shorted stator, or worse!
All along just as it seemed from getgo it was a weak spark condition, good connection for the iggy coil and ground but poor one for the cdi thats i guess why it would always start so easliy just die out at higher loads.
Anyways i am so stoked to have it running great again, and since i have
To get new exhaust because silnecer is busting , amd seeing as i would be waiting two weeks or more for a c21 at for 300$ which i really dont have i looked at some graphs dynos comparing a gianelli similar to mine and yasuni r . It will hugely improve my power as yasuni r makes power at 11,000 rpm were as current one topps out near 9000 rpm.
St.ca doesnt have many piggy pipes in stock or atall but the piggy yasuni r black version has been 30%! Off! AND I FINALLY PULLED THE TRIGGER CANT WAIT. ONLY 150$ FOR THE PIPE, half price compared to c21 which isnt even i stock.
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Post by 808ministroke on Nov 10, 2020 5:13:28 GMT -5
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Post by aeroxbud on Nov 10, 2020 7:12:59 GMT -5
Should notice a big difference with that pipe. 👍
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