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Post by captincvmn on Nov 4, 2022 22:10:17 GMT -5
I have two stock china minarelli air boxes here.
Stage6 Sport Pro MK2 Kit exhaust gaskets and 21mm phbg were 205€ with the shipping from Scooter Attack. I went with UPS express because last time I cheaped out and used DHL, took a month.
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Post by captincvmn on Nov 26, 2022 11:12:51 GMT -5
Engine going together, piston goes flush with the floor of the exhaust port, doesn’t go down to floor of intake ports though? I haven’t checked squish yet.
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Post by 90GTVert on Nov 26, 2022 12:20:43 GMT -5
I think most of us would prefer to have a collection of info when considering setup. Port locations at BDC, squish and where the piston is at TDC, port timings and where the pipe used should work. Then hem and haw for a bit before taking a WAG.
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Post by captincvmn on Nov 26, 2022 13:29:28 GMT -5
I have a squish target listed in the accompanying paperwork, piston at BDC goes flush with floor of exhaust port. I was/is assuming the floors of the transfers would come into view at BDC also but maybe they don’t as a general rule? Seems that with a stock stroke of the squish is correct the port alignments cannot be altered without mechanical alteration (shaving) of the head or deck.
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Post by 90GTVert on Nov 26, 2022 19:17:36 GMT -5
I have a squish target... Seems that with a stock stroke of the squish is correct the port alignments cannot be altered without mechanical alteration (shaving) of the head or deck. Right. What happens most of the time with bolt on kits (no funny stroke requirements or mixing and matching) is if the squish is good then it goes together. You could raise the cylinder with a spacer or gaskets, but then you have to figure out how to get squish back in check so you don't lose the benefits of proper squish clearance or a bunch of compression. If you had an RPM target and knew where the port durations were, then maybe that would sway the decision of leave it or mod it because raising the cylinder will increase durations. The piston crown can be modified, but you aren't going to solve any major problem that way. Not enough material to safely remove and you're going to have a spot with large squish clearance that also increases the aligned port's duration. Might be able to smooth out a minor transition that bugs you. I'm not saying it's always right, but I'm pretty confident that the majority of big bore kits go on with a squish check at most. With the effort involved to modify a head significantly, I'd be most likely to bolt it on as it came and adjust squish with gaskets. If it runs strong, leave it.
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Post by captincvmn on Dec 7, 2022 22:41:58 GMT -5
So between custody changes and my mom’s passing my scooter has taken a back seat. Sucks because I’d love to just take a ride right now. I did manage to find some nice lead mix solder at mom’s house so I kept it for non plumbing squish testing. The new plumbing safe stuff is so freekin hard. Hate it. Anyway, I got home at 10pm and said screw it im going into the garage. Cut off a piece and wedged it in the piston area. Looked extremely thin so I thought that can’t possibly be correct. Got out the book that came with the kit. Squish should be .60mm +/- .10mm. This mics out to .65mm. Guess I’ll keep it as is. So since the stroke is a predetermined measurement and the squish is on spec I’ll assume the port timings from factory are acceptable and move forward with assembly. Some grey RTV on the base gasket on both sides and torque block again. I’m staying on the light side of the torque specs. Book says 9-11Nm. I’m stopping at 80 inch pounds. Maybe if I’m lucky and I get enough done this weekend in my adult life I can find some time in my “mid-life” to finish assembly.
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Post by captincvmn on Dec 8, 2022 21:44:19 GMT -5
Y’all can prolly sleep better tonight. The new 21mm carb has the following internal parts installed:
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Post by captincvmn on Dec 8, 2022 21:45:25 GMT -5
And before you blow up my page, the air shroud is removed until I get a heat cycle and retorque the cylinder.
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Post by captincvmn on Dec 10, 2022 20:20:34 GMT -5
We have a running engine.
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Post by 190mech on Dec 10, 2022 20:40:49 GMT -5
Yeah,but uggg,aint got no shroud! JUST KIDDING!!!
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Post by ryan_ott on Dec 11, 2022 0:10:57 GMT -5
Do you have any other needles to work with? I usually went towards the W9, look up the taper profiles and see what works best for you. If you don’t already have tuning parts for that carb reach out and I’ll loan you what I have.
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Post by ryan_ott on Dec 11, 2022 0:22:17 GMT -5
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Post by captincvmn on Dec 11, 2022 7:07:27 GMT -5
I have a set of slow jets and fast jets. I have at least three needles but I’m not sure of the numbers on them. Today is my last full day to clean at my mothers house before it goes for sale Thursday. I’ll mess with the bike in about 13 hours.
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Post by captincvmn on Dec 11, 2022 21:07:20 GMT -5
Went for a short ride around 8:30 tonight. Just up and back on the level 25mph street at my house. Idle is good. Throttle picks up nice and crisp from idle (2500rpm) at 1/2-full throttle with engine running around 6,000 under load (not on stand) it falls on its face and sputters. The 90 main has to be too large. I just started with what was already in the carb as purchased from ScooterAttack. It’s a Motoforce unit. I’m going to drop the main to an 85 and test again, maybe tomorrow.
Question: spark plug temp ring, how in the hell does that fit in without busting off at least one of the smallest cooling fins? Does the higher dollar unit have a smaller pickup lump next to the copper ring so it fits properly?
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Post by ryan_ott on Dec 11, 2022 21:44:50 GMT -5
Even with the tto gauges sometimes I’ve had to break out the smallest little fin on the Polini heads and clearance the cover. You’ll probably end up 82-88 and 40-45. Edit: This is larger than the tto style but you can see the fin needed to be filed to fit.
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