lbo
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 141
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Post by lbo on Oct 22, 2011 21:13:53 GMT -5
Is it pretty much like the Vento Triton? My brothers Euro Strada RX-8 has had it's share of issues over the last 3 or 4 years he's had it. A couple months ago he wound up buying a 4T rental scooter and this one has been sitting around in the garage neglected. He said someone was going to buy it, never happened. Brother and I decided to make it a project bike, or at least clean it and paint the fairings. He rattled canned Pittsburgh yellow and black and did a horrible job a few years ago, that will need to be sanded down. I will read up on how to prepare and paint the body parts, thinking of going with black and green, darkish Kelly green. I will need some misc parts and wondering if it's the same as a Vento Triton. Where is a good place to look for parts on-line? I took it apart today to see what ill need to be replaced, it still runs but will need some work. Air box is cracked. At first this is what I thought was causing the loudness. The leaky exhaust got oil everywhere, it at least needs a nice cleaning.   So because this engine lies vertically does it mean it's a Minerelli clone? Can I get Minerelli engine parts (exhaust, intake, gaskets) that will fit.    Thanks in advance, should be a cool project. |
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Post by 90GTVert on Oct 22, 2011 21:20:21 GMT -5
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lbo
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 141
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Post by lbo on Oct 22, 2011 21:44:48 GMT -5
Nice kit.
Where is it stamped? I just looked all over and didn't see one.
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Post by 90GTVert on Oct 22, 2011 22:14:59 GMT -5
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lbo
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 141
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Post by lbo on Oct 22, 2011 22:39:20 GMT -5
Thanks for telling me, I would have never found it. ;D Well I brushed it off, did a double take, thats a good one!   |
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Post by 90GTVert on Oct 22, 2011 23:00:07 GMT -5
So the bad part is that it's harder to find cylinder kits for this engine. While it should fit the BIG bores (up to 54mm), it uses a 10mm wrist pin and they're all 12mm. If you need a cylinder that should work with the stock crank, Autotech355 will probably be your best bet. The good news is that if you have a desire to build a stroker motor, the case is the 90cc style so you should be able to fit most stroker cranks without case work. Kinda good and bad, depending what your goal is. You said you wanted a project bike, so I know which way I'd go. :devil:
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lbo
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 141
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Post by lbo on Oct 22, 2011 23:08:44 GMT -5
I want to make sure I understand the options.........
So I could leave it (It currently runs, had an exhaus leak) It has a standard crank..
I could put a 70 kit on it right? Hard to find one that will fit though for a 10mm.
I could buy a stroker crank, wouldn't need to do any case work, and by a 90 kit?
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Post by 90GTVert on Oct 23, 2011 6:10:58 GMT -5
Of course you can leave it if the engine is OK.
70cc kit = Talk to Autotech355 because they have a longer stroke than the standard 1e40qmb that most kits are designed for, but he can get the right one. Look that link I posted earlier over again.
Correct, it's made like a 90cc case inside, just for some reason they put 10mm wrist pins on the crank so no big kits will bolt on. 10mm is easy to find for 70cc stuff, not really anything out there for the 90cc stuff that I know of.
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lbo
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 141
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Post by lbo on Oct 23, 2011 7:42:29 GMT -5
I might check into the 70 from Autotech355........... it's up to my brother. He will bank roll the project while I will do the work. Speaking of work, what is the best way to remove surface rust? Sandblast? Wire brush? After I remove the rust is paint the best or is there a way to scrape it down to the bear metal and then protect it so it won't rust again?   |
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Post by dude on Oct 23, 2011 9:40:58 GMT -5
On the pipe you might check into having it powder coated. They will sand blast it and powder coat it with high temp coating. I had mine done still looks good its been almost a year. Close at the motor the color has changed a little
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Post by 90GTVert on Oct 23, 2011 15:24:29 GMT -5
The cheap way would be to use a wire or rust remover wheel on it and then hit it with some BBQ black spray paint.
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lbo
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 141
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Post by lbo on Oct 24, 2011 18:25:31 GMT -5
I put a wire brush to it at the end of my cordless drill, it took the rough rust off and made just made it smooth........ still orange in color. Sounds like doing this then painting it will be the best option. (Request for Brent to move this thread to the BUILD forum please) I took more of it apart today and decided to go all in with the restoration, complete "frame off" style. Have all off but the forks & front wheel and the engine. Never dropped an engine but doesn't appear to be difficult, I am just going into unchartered & unfamiliar territory now. I noticed a couple issues or concerns I will have to address. It appears someone (not sure who/when) took a wire from the headlight harness to the strator harness for some reason, I had to cut it. What is the purpose of doing that? Also the spark plug cable came out of what ever it is that it connect too, I guess the coil. It just corroded off as the wire at the end is blue green in color. I am surprised I was able to start it before I began disassembly. So that will need to replaced. My biggest fear was removing the wiring harness and trying to remember will everything goes, not good with wiring at all. So anyway hope to get to bare frame, clean/sand and then repaint it. Then assemble everything else ;D. Haven't messed with the CVT or engine yet but no doubt either a 70 is going in and if I find the confidence to split the case and put a new crank in then a 90 will be powering it since the case is set up for it. I would really be going into uncharted territory for that project. I will have a ton of questions about parts; where to get them, what is this for, and how to install some things. First thing first I would love to find a service manual but haven't been able to find one........ if anyone has a link please share thanks. This will be fun though, hope my brothers pockets don't mind  First question, what is this for?   It as attached to the front of the frame, same mount with the horn. The ceramic like backing is coming apart. The salt air and leaving it outside for a couple years has really taken it's toll on so many parts, from corrossion to dry rot. Speaking of dry rot the front forks are shot. I will need to either rebuild them or buy new ones. I haven't seen much on how to rebuild shocks...... the chrome has rusted and the seals are gone. Another couple pics as it stands now; Frame;  Parts;  |
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Post by 90GTVert on Oct 25, 2011 18:22:43 GMT -5
Removing the engine is pretty simple. If you can strip it all down, you should have no trouble getting the motor out. More info.That thing with the ceramic bits is a ballast resistor. The seals are probably all you'd need to replace in the front forks, but I dunno where you get individual parts for them. It'd probably be easiest to try and find some on eBay or something. Island Cycles in Ocean City used to sell Ventos and still sells Chinese scoots, not sure if they'd be of any assistance. I know they used to keep some parts hanging on the walls, but I haven't been in there for years. |
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lbo
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 141
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Post by lbo on Oct 25, 2011 21:26:22 GMT -5
Ballast resistor huh? Not something I see when looking for scooter parts but there are many little items I will need to get. I wonder if it has something to do with my brothers headlight issue, he had it fixed when the mechanic couldn't find a short is when they wired it directly to the wires coming from the strator. The wire it plugs into goes into the wiring harness, no idea where it leads to. I really need to learn some basic electricity I think to take on this project.
Haha Island Cycles, yeah, thats where my brother bought it new years ago........ the one downtown on Somerset street. (I think that is Island Cycles) He has a lot of 4T parts now, not so much any 2T parts. They don't even sell any 2T scooters or rent them, they are all four strokes.
Yeah engine is out, simple. I have a couple rusted bolts holding up progress with the rest of the tear down......... one for the fan shroud on the right side and another with the engine mount attached to the frame. The latter isn't critical but would like to remove it. The nut holding the rear tire looks pretty rusted too, need to get something to spray on those nuts and bolts.
I need to get a bigger wrench for the nuts holding the forks on, also need to get a digital micrometer to measure the engine parts for the swap/build, saw you got yours from Harbor Freight. The more I am thinking about it the more I am leaning towards the 90 option.
A ton of little parts I will need including things like a coil, the front brake is a mess, going with new handlebars, and other misc items I need to begin to write down and make a list. The frame has a lot of rust, thought it was surface but I can see where it's making it's way under the paint and bubbling up. Not sure if I should sand blast the frame and other components or do my best with some sandpaper and rustolium.
Oh, and noticed another issue. His clutch assembly wobbles and noticed grease coating the back half of the CVT. I guess a bearing has failed or is failing.
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Post by 2strokd on Oct 26, 2011 9:16:30 GMT -5
Its typical for most long case style mina,s that have a support bearing for the drive shaft in the CVT cover to wobble some. Even with a new bearing the shaft will wiggle around some. Might need a seal and or bearing though? Check the cover bearing as well. They are known for going!
Nice build! I think you will like it when done.
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