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Post by fly on Apr 30, 2022 21:25:09 GMT -5
looking at these today they look really bad in the photos, they look a lot better in natural light. I had to point a flashlight at em to get a decent pic, well bad pic as it were. highlights every freaking wrinkle and dog hair that's floated on them since I brought them in! 😅😅
started pulling in some bearings, once again did not pull the cases together, just a lot doing getting ready for my surgery on Monday. 😬
eta: they're are a lot darker in real life than they look in the pic
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Post by hellish100 on May 8, 2022 19:48:14 GMT -5
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Post by fly on May 8, 2022 20:12:09 GMT -5
My dog, mostly! Been recuperating from surgery. Splints out tomorrow. Just starting to feel alive again over the last few days. Got a bunch of stuff prepped! ETA: I ordered an easy-boost so I can rear mount and get the ball rolling (mild hook-up price). Someone said you can drill it so it's not a stretch, so I'll see about that. Voca made a rad non-stretched sub frame for rear mount, but it's discontinued and I cannot source. Forks are pulled and ready for rebuild. The circus is slowly coming together, and I think I'm safe on weather from here on out! |
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Post by fly on May 15, 2022 7:19:02 GMT -5
Noticed R6 rear shocks from certain years are the right length. Eye top, clevis bottom. Stock spring rate is too high, but adjustable valving. Could get a lighter spring easy enough. They seem to go for less than a bill on eBay in good condition. Been kicking around the idea. Could be better than other options under $200? Next best idea is YSS. Not paying for a scooter co branded rear suspension, it's become clear the mark-up is insane for what you get.
Actual scoot is being pulled apart. Front end looks fine from crash as far as I can tell. Will mod easy boost stretch to no stretch so I don't need longer cables when the intent was always to go back to stock wheelbase.
Engine coming along nicely, pics soon... 😁
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Post by fly on May 29, 2022 20:12:34 GMT -5
alright, so here's where I'm at. behind after the setbacks and busy season and surgery blah blah blah.
Crank was was 0.01mm at the journals out of the box, meh. Like 0.03mm towards the end of the shaft. I spent some time and got it reading 0.00mm at the journals (Mitutoyo dial indicator, trust it), and 0.01x at the end of the crankshafts.
Cases came together perfectly. Managed to get it centered without having to make any adjustments. I like to take my time and get it right as the cases are closed, I don't like having to adjust after. Feel it puts undue burden on the big end of the crank and bearings. Crank got the polymer SKF bearings and Viton seals.
Final drive also went perfectly. Only used gear in there is the counter shaft. New drive shaft, all SKF bearings, the aforementioned Malossi 14/42s with the extended shaft. Ordered a OE gasket for the input shaft, as it was cheaper than getting a FKM one CONUS for some reason. It's Koyo, I'm totally good with that. Also used a new final drive cover, figured new manufacturing (Al) is probably better than 14 years ago. Didn't use a FKM seal at the drive shaft, but it's a CR (SKF) seal and see much lower RPM than the others. Of course SKF bearing.
Re installed the drum brake arbor with a new flange nut, the OE ones are like pot metal and it was mangled getting it off. I used blue threadlocker and staked it (OE was staked, hence nut mangling. I cleaned those threads with a knife file before reinstallation. New o-rings there and on drum cam. I use Super Lube for rear end assembly. Great stuff.
I did take the time to clean up the paint and it looks a lot better. Glad I did.
Downside: The crash I talked about here looked like in addition to skipping the gears out of time, breaking the clutch, and a crank bearing, seems to have also bent my overrange rear pulley, at least. FML. Naught cheap discovery. 👎
I did take some pics hold up I'll post what I got, I need to go back and find them.
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Post by fly on May 29, 2022 20:51:21 GMT -5
       I guess I didn't take many. I'm no 90gt, that's for sure. youtube.com/shorts/iTSNrzVgjwA?feature=share
For funsies.
Few more things: 12.9 bolts for the final drive. I used the nickel plated ones from spec-bolt at the holes where the dowels are for longer threaded surface.
The gears on the stump table: The one marked 5DA is the 02-05 first gear for size comparison. I have pulled the main axle/counter/intermediate shaft from my '05 yet. I think I should be able to pull ~10:1 with no problems with 94 freaking cc's. It's not a 77 or 86cc screamer, the displacement kinda pointless without using it at least a little. If it won't at least pull the wheel from start I'll go back to 11:1.
Also, test fitting cylinder looks like it's going to line up perfectly. I haven't installed it yet, want to check out the easy-boost before so I don't knock it unnecessarily.
Waiting on seals for S6 forks, using 15wt oil for now (Motul).
Battery cells are all top balanced and sitting in parallel waiting to be assembled into the right form factor. The plan is as a tray in the seat, my bucket bottom has been cut out basically since I got it.
I tested the draw of my LED headlights. They'll both stay powered on with little draw, lower than expected, only tested down to 500mA at 10VDC, which seems odd(ly low) for the output. It seemed like the same brightness to me inside, but I'm not sure. I don't know if they have a low voltage cut off or not, because they are also more than willing to pull 1.6 amps. They shouldn't be able to run without enough current/voltage, so this might be a welcome surprise. But I know they have *some* sort of regulator built in, because they are AC & DC compatible. I need to take them outside with the power supply and see if I notice a diff in power based on draw. It's totally possible they just give off excess energy in the form of heat. If that's the case I will make a constant current regulator so they don't draw more than they have to. Or for time saving I might just buy one, they're cheap, I'm way behind on this.
The bike is stripped of plastics. I don't know if I mentioned, but I have a bunch of new ones. So I'll be able to carve up the old one getting the radiator fit just right, and transfer than to the clean fresh one.
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Post by fly on May 29, 2022 20:53:02 GMT -5
oh, I v'ed out the outside edge of the JB bolstering of the crankcases, which is why the threebond bead looks so big. It's actually 👌 inside. Hope that experiment pans out, lol.
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Post by fly on May 29, 2022 23:31:20 GMT -5
Does anybody know what is within spec for runout at the rear pulley for the 05 Malossi over range?
~10mm down from the outer edge I've got 0.23mm runout. Down where the taper stops I've got 0.10mm. Same at the top of the other pulley half, and just outside the spring seat it's 0.12mm.
It seems like a lot. But that doesn't mean it's not spec. But it's seems like it would be a lot for spec. But Malossi...
I can get a new rear over range (05) pulley for 180 or less shipped, or I can pay and pray that replacing the bearings would help. I don't know if I want to spend time troubleshooting it, or just getting on with it and ordering a new one. I guess I can take it apart and see if the sheaves are warped. I should anyway to make sure the slots aren't notched from the impact. fuh.
But if that's spec I'll just run it, f it.
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Post by 90GTVert on May 30, 2022 22:14:05 GMT -5
Does anybody know what is within spec for runout at the rear pulley for the 05 Malossi over range? ~10mm down from the outer edge I've got 0.23mm runout. Down where the taper stops I've got 0.10mm. Same at the top of the other pulley half, and just outside the spring seat it's 0.12mm. It seems like a lot. But that doesn't mean it's not spec. But it's seems like it would be a lot for spec. But Malossi... I can get a new rear over range (05) pulley for 180 or less shipped, or I can pay and pray that replacing the bearings would help. I don't know if I want to spend time troubleshooting it, or just getting on with it and ordering a new one. I guess I can take it apart and see if the sheaves are warped. I should anyway to make sure the slots aren't notched from the impact. fuh. But if that's spec I'll just run it, f it. No idea what a spec would be for it, but my old steel pulleys looked pretty far out of shape sometimes. One of those broke totally apart at the welds. I've done runout checks, but I have no idea what the results were anymore. I liked steel pulleys, but the aluminum ones are likely to outlast them and appear to run much more true. Noticed R6 rear shocks from certain years are the right length. Eye top, clevis bottom. I'm way late on this, but I bought a motorcycle shock for T2 at one point. Don't recall the model. Right length, right mounting style. Figured it should be heavy duty and good for someone my size. It's heavy duty alright. even though the length was correct, it's diameter was big enough that it couldn't fit and it needed larger mounts. If you haven't got this covered yet, make sure you find as many dimensions as possible to check. |
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Post by fly on May 31, 2022 2:28:04 GMT -5
That's rad to know, thanks. I'm holding off on rear susp until I get an idea what length I'll want. But what you say makes sense, and saves me time and money! It was almost a good idea 😅 I'm just gonna bite the bullet and order an Al version. The new one is:  It's the same price as the 2013, and at least one person has ordered the 2013 and got this new sku. So I don't know if it's safe to assume that's what I'd get if I order through sc.ca or not. If I order from another joint it's $35 more, but guaranteed to be the new one. Hate to pay the same price and get the older sku, it's at least a little bit different. 🫤 Anyway, I want to put the steelie on the Jog that's getting cast-offs. Especially hearing the Al ones run more true. Plus I'll take every bit of strength I can get. |
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Post by fly on Jun 4, 2022 13:20:42 GMT -5
Waitin' for a chance to get a really good run at it, but I did get to check out spacer/gasket/squish this morning. Wants to sit the same way 90gt's does, as I recall. In order to get the spec'd squish it leaves a lot to be desired at bdc. I'm so damn tempted to shave it.
Got an intake plan and the stuff to make it, that'll be fun. Hopefully get a good minute soon. It's sitting there teasing me, so teaser pic 😅
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Post by fly on Jun 6, 2022 7:41:04 GMT -5
When in the spec'd squish, the bottom of the piston skirt ever so slightly rubs the case bore. It's about a hair's breath of banging the bottom of the piston shirt in the area between the bottom of the cylinder skirt and case bore, so that would be a catastrophic failure waiting to happen.
So. I need to get some playdough and block off the crank and relieve it. Cold chisel, heck, might use beater wood chisel with modified grind. Will knock cut down the areas carefully. No abrasives, no files. Hopefully go smooth.
Would not be happening if bdc lined up with exhaust port better. 🤔 I do think it's a lot of power left on the table, but at higher rpm. Feels like it oughta sit lower, really does. Especially with how the cylinder skirt is so short and the piston skirt rub.
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Post by repherence2 on Jun 8, 2022 21:39:01 GMT -5
When in the spec'd squish, the bottom of the piston skirt ever so slightly rubs the case bore. It's about a hair's breath of banging the bottom of the piston shirt in the area between the bottom of the cylinder skirt and case bore, so that would be a catastrophic failure waiting to happen. So. I need to get some playdough and block off the crank and relieve it. Cold chisel, heck, might use beater wood chisel with modified grind. Will knock cut down the areas carefully. No abrasives, no files. Hopefully go smooth. Would not be happening if bdc lined up with exhaust port better. 🤔 I do think it's a lot of power left on the table, but at higher rpm. Feels like it oughta sit lower, really does. Especially with how the cylinder skirt is so short and the piston skirt rub.
would it not be safer to just remove 0.010"-0.020" (or more) from the end of piston skirt with a file?
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Post by fly on Jun 9, 2022 11:11:18 GMT -5
When in the spec'd squish, the bottom of the piston skirt ever so slightly rubs the case bore. It's about a hair's breath of banging the bottom of the piston shirt in the area between the bottom of the cylinder skirt and case bore, so that would be a catastrophic failure waiting to happen. So. I need to get some playdough and block off the crank and relieve it. Cold chisel, heck, might use beater wood chisel with modified grind. Will knock cut down the areas carefully. No abrasives, no files. Hopefully go smooth. Would not be happening if bdc lined up with exhaust port better. 🤔 I do think it's a lot of power left on the table, but at higher rpm. Feels like it oughta sit lower, really does. Especially with how the cylinder skirt is so short and the piston skirt rub.
would it not be safer to just remove 0.010"-0.020" (or more) from the end of piston skirt with a file?
It was a small enough amount it was nbd. Stuff on the engine is pretty much wrapped up. Just need to finish the intake, which is simply redoing the 2 parts I pitted anodizing. I have to say, it really looks good. Which is exciting. |
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Post by fly on Jun 11, 2022 17:33:54 GMT -5
  Much relief. Got the angled bit cut and just how I wanted it. phew. I had three blanks to work with, and had cut one last night too thin and at 4.5°. Now all I have to do is drill 12 holes perfectly, tap 4, countersink 4, and clean them up a bit. You can see with the thicker stock the waterjet leaves rough edges. I have a 1/16" piece of 75 duro Viton that's going to be the gasket between the two halves. The actual intake is waiting to be brazed, can't wait to show it. Used Al elbow, part of a *massive* piece of 8" wide Al u-channel, some plate (all 6061), and the flange from a KX85 intake. This is welcome. I can move a lot faster on the bike stuff. I've been really hung up on getting the engine as close to perfect as I can. Certainly spent more time than I meant to on it, and have taken some overkill steps. Mounting rads, etc., doesn't require the same level of precision for me to obsess about and fear over getting wrong. |
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