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Post by 90GTVert on Dec 12, 2019 13:44:38 GMT -5
Well, so far so bad. I did a running test of the white and yellow wires. Both get around 35V revving 10,000+RPM. Then I checked battery voltage to see how it charges. As I have it wired, my lights only get battery power and I have a headlight switch that will turn all lights off. I had 12.6-12.7V at rest. Then when I started the scoot it only dropped over time. When I turned the headlight on it dropped to 12.1. Looks like no charging is happening at all. There's output from the stator's charging and lighting wires though, since I just tested that. I guess I either have it wired wrong or the Yamaha reg/rec is bad out of the box (seems unlikely). (EDIT : Diagram updated to correct wiring)  I double checked that and it looks just like the 2008 Yamaha Zuma service manual's diagram and pinout for the regulator setup and I ordered the reg/rec from an '08 Zuma since I had the diagram. |
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Post by Kenho21 on Dec 12, 2019 14:21:09 GMT -5
Rectifier has a good ground?
Can’t you check output from it?
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Post by Kenho21 on Dec 12, 2019 14:22:30 GMT -5
Check the rectifier for continuity between its poles? Dunno, but just kinda spitballin.
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Post by 90GTVert on Dec 12, 2019 15:03:45 GMT -5
TPR 86cc Part 22 : Wiring (which may be wrong lol) and demo of TDC vs true TDC ignition setup difference. www.youtube.com/watch?v=4idt8lFgLlgI'm gonna go out and do a few basic checks of the reg/rec. Gonna check voltage across the + and - terminals to be sure it matches the battery. Then do diode tests looking for open one way and a reading the other way when connecting probes to AC and DC terminals. |
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Post by Kenho21 on Dec 12, 2019 15:26:36 GMT -5
Time for some interrogation.
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Post by 90GTVert on Dec 12, 2019 16:25:29 GMT -5
I looked up single phase/half wave bridge rectifier test info. That gives specs showing which combos of + & - probes and terminals should produce certain results using a diode test on a multimeter. Based on that, it looks like my expected pinout for the reg/rec is wrong. I made up jumpers and re-arranged as it looked like it should be based on diode tests.  Now I have charging! Didn't expect that when using what should be the proper part to match a Yamaha diagram and pinout. I've done it on Chinese scoots before, but the regulators cost $5 and everything involved is Chinese. Anyone ever have to rearrange the pins on their Zuma reg/rec harness for a direct replacement part or maybe the pinout in the manual (as I've shown in my diagram above) doesn't match what you really have? ...but there's a new issue. Charging exceeds 16V when revved. So now the regulation isn't right. Maybe I fried it when it was hooked up wrong? I've got another of the same part # reg/rec on the way from Partzilla in case that's the answer. If not, I'll have a spare reg that doesn't regulate well for me.  I didn't even try it with the headlight on. It may be that my lights draw enough that it would never see that kind of voltage anyway, but I'd rather have a system that operates properly rather than relying on a draw to regulate. |
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Post by Kenho21 on Dec 12, 2019 19:48:24 GMT -5
My guess would be that a capacitor or something inside the rectifier fried if anything was wired incorrectly as you say. As far as I know, the components in rectifiers are pretty sensitive and reverse protection isn’t typically built in. High output voltage is one symptom I would expect of a faulty rectifier. I’d be asking Partzilla for a credit lol.
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Post by aeroxbud on Dec 13, 2019 6:21:55 GMT -5
At least you know it can supply a good charging voltage! Was a bit worried for a while, that it wouldn't be enough.
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Post by jackrides on Dec 13, 2019 13:17:03 GMT -5
At least you finally admit you need regulation.
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Post by 90GTVert on Dec 14, 2019 14:29:04 GMT -5
Both timing lights came in. The old Craftsman light won't give me any signal. The Innova 5568 will. Unfortunately, I still really check much. What I didn't think about is the RPM limit on the Innova. So, it says it goes to 9,900RPM. The problem is, this is 2 PPR while the highest setting on it is 1 PPR (2T mode). So it's reading double RPM and it cuts out before 5,000RPM. 3 lights and I can't get much more than base timing. It looks to my eye that it's 30-35° BTDC at about 2,000RPM. It bounces around. If I had to guess, I'd guess 32.5°. Then it appears to me that it advances more, to right about 40° BTDC and stays there till my light cuts out below 5,000RPM. Maybe that's something to do with a poor signal/pickup, but I'm thinking that maybe it runs a lower advance for cranking so the engine is not so hard to start and at less risk of starting backwards, then picks up to full advance by 3,000-ish RPM and either stays flat or doesn't move a lot till they anticipate the powerband getting close. Ryan's video of his Digital Direct looks like it's a pretty steady curve though. His does appear to be idling pretty high. Even if I could read timing at higher revs, I'm not sure how successful I could be at a good map. It's pretty hard to modulate this thing to certain RPM levels. I'm seeing why people build test rigs. This thing is harder to deal with than my 4Ts and less aggressive 2Ts. A timing graph will have to happen later if it happens from me. I don't like to tell you I'll get you info and not do it, but there's not much I can do right at the moment. pitobread, can you give me a good link to your light? The link that you posted before just takes me to the main page of AliExpress. ryan_ott, got a link to what you use? Might pick up one of those two too so I can start a timing light museum. |
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Post by 190mech on Dec 14, 2019 16:30:02 GMT -5
I had an old timing light that served me well thru the hi-per car stuff for years,but was jumpy on scoot ignitions,tried a super old school one,,nothing!Bought a HF timing light and its worked well with my iggy tester,have to tape the advance knob to -0- though..Had a discussion a while back on KiwiBiker about timing lights and Frits Overmars commented that lots of timing lights will "creep" as RPM's increase..I'll have to go back and see what the masters deemed as good,,Wish that iggy was big taper,I'd send you my homebrew tester to see what it does..I'll see if Ive got some rod stock to make up a small taper shaft..
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Post by ryan_ott on Dec 14, 2019 20:50:38 GMT -5
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Post by 90GTVert on Dec 15, 2019 0:15:01 GMT -5
Thanks Ryan. Since John had luck with the HF light, I think I'll try it. I have to be in a town with a HF this morning anyway, so I'll see if I can get one.
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Post by pitobread on Dec 15, 2019 0:58:41 GMT -5
Search timing light on aliexpress, pick the cheapest one its black with no frills.
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Post by pitobread on Dec 15, 2019 1:01:37 GMT -5
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I didn't even try it with the headlight on. It may be that my lights draw enough that it would never see that kind of voltage anyway, but I'd rather have a system that operates properly rather than relying on a draw to regulate.
