Triton # 2 (T2) 49cc to 110cc & Nearly Everywhere In Between

[90GTVert]

Thanks. Link still didn't work, but I edited it with one that does for me. Looks like the same light that Ryan got on eBay, just a little cheaper if you're willing to wait from China.

[pitobread]

Weird that it doesnt work. I click on it and it does.

[90GTVert]

I got the Harbor Freight timing light today. It cuts off at 6,000RPM. Gonna have to get another cabinet to hold all of my lights.




I think I'm just gonna put it together and see what happens at this point. I might order the eBay/Ali light. I don't know. I've already spent ~$150 on lights to learn little more than base timing. Prob have to try and film it again though. I guess shutter speed is all wrong or something. Can't see anything but flashing lines on video. I'm not tired of electronic crap at all right now!

[aeroxbud]

Can't say you didn't give it a good try.
I guess the next swap meet you will be selling a car boot full of timing lights! 😬

[808ministroke]

Sorry if this is off topic but I was thinking about putting on one of the cooling units I have for the core processors for one of my dads ‘super computers🎛📟🎙🎚🕹🚿❄️🌬 , now that I know Brent you are familiar with this type of pcbuild anyway..... so my bright idea is to use the coolant system which is made up of a heat sink that goes directly onto the processor it has oil and water pumping through it and to a coolant unit at the rear of the case maybe six inch away with two small fans pulling hot air out through the “radiator “ the lines are wrapped in braided material so no heat seems to escape from them. I would love to try to use this connecting the heat sink to the head of air cooled cylinder. I mean think of the possibility of some thing that could fit in a small part of your seat!!!! They have upgraded bearings silent and super efficient. The size is close to the size of the head already and believe it or not these systems have massive cooling power 

[90GTVert]

Maybe the radiator and fans could work. I don't think the idea of attaching the heat sink to the head would be effective. You've got something like a 2" square to allow heat transfer from the engine. You also need a very flat surface for that to interact with. Maybe some of the engines with spark plugs that come in at an angle could do it, but there's not room to mill that surface into a Minarelli head. You're either going to have a stud or the spark plug in your way, or both. Even if you could, LC kits use coolant flow around the cylinder and head and many use modular heads to get more coolant contact area and also allow coolant to flow around the exhaust port. I guess at least if it's done right you can still have the AC fins in most areas to help you out. I'd assume the majority of people wanting an LC setup wouldn't want to have to have essentially the whole air cooled system plus the LC stuff though. Then there's the issue of parts designed for a purpose. Liquid cooling systems for computers probably aren't designed to take extreme vibration and exposure to the elements.

If you want to do some experimenting, please share the results with us, but I think it would be more likely to succeed in a useful manner by either sticking with AC or at least using a cylinder kit designed for LC.

[90GTVert]

I re-filmed. Watched both videos. This is all I can really tell you.

RPM	Degrees BTDC
	Innova	Cen-Tech
2000	30-35	30-40
3000	40	40
4000	42	??
5000	42	42

It's really jumpy around idle, so that's why it's a range there. The timing mark disappears on the Cen-Tech around 4,000RPM and then comes back briefly before shutting off totally. Not exactly the info I was hoping to be able to gather.

EDIT : For clarification, it is jumpy to my eye. Not just the camera view. The camera was used as a fixed POV trying to get straight on with the pointer and to make it easier to check RPM vs degrees.

[190mech]

I wonder if its the quality NGK plug wire causing the lack of signal..My test rig uses a stock coil and plug wire..Found the comment on KiwiBiker ESE thread,page 1928 where Frits Overmars tells of his test rig that gives accurate info;
"Many strobe lamps are designed for about 3000 rpm and at high revs they can suffer from an unknown amount of delay, or they overheat and perish, or both.
But you don't need a strobe lamp at all.
My setup (still in Italy, alas I have no pictures of it) looked a lot like yours but instead of a degree wheel I used a nylon spool of 114,6 mm diameter with a metal measuring tape glued around it. Figure out the necessary length of tape and you'll understand.
The spool with the measuring tape was stationary, the spark plug cable was connected to the tape, and the rotating shaft carried an indicator needle that ran
close to the tape. In order to avoid the spark current from pitting the bearing races, a carbon brush made up the connection between the rotating shaft and earth."

[pitobread]

I have seen something like that with a metal degree wheel and a pointer like a rotor button.

As it rotates it arcs at the degree.

[90GTVert]

I think it would accomplish the same thing much more quickly if I just went ahead and tased myself.

Without something to mount the stator/rotor to that could spin it up fast enough, I'd have to rely on the engine to supply the rotation. That would mean I'd have to have a spliced signal from the plug wire. I know timing lights tap into that, but I would think that if you actually tried to split the charge, then either the engine isn't gonna fire or the apparatus will not spark.

At least I do know roughly where the timing starts out. If it backs off about 25 degrees as pito and Ryan have said/shown, then it should be pretty safe at high RPM since I was something like 25 degrees up there with the mod stock stuff. Part throttle sounds like a terrifying idea to me ATM. Not saying I'm done with timing. I'm not waiting a week on a light or trying to build a spark contraption right now. Kinda wanna get it on pavement before 2020. Not even sure that will be in the next video, even though I said in the last one prob next one will have some riding. Didn't anticipate the recent difficulties and don't really want the current vid to be an hour.

[pitobread]

Yeah. I was thinking a router would work with a rheostat or Speed control. Make a mount for the iggy and would be a great test bed.

[190mech]

A similar machine is at the bottom of this page;
www.sportdevices.com/ignition/ignition.htm

I plan on sending you my test unit once the new shaft arrives and get the small taper cut,,be a good thing to dig out once it gets too cold to ride..

PS,Does the timing marks on the unit have any bearing on where the actual spark is when running?

[90GTVert]

Dec 17, 2019 4:47:48 GMT -5 190mech said:

PS,Does the timing marks on the unit have any bearing on where the actual spark is when running?

Sorry it took a bit to reply. Wasn't sure what you were asking at first, but I guess you're asking about the MVT. There's no reluctor or pickup that I know of. The MVT actually doesn't have the standard exciter and pickup wires. It only uses the exciter wire, so I guess it bases the firing off of the same signal that provides energy for the spark. The mark on the rotor can align with one of 2 different marks on the stator, depending on direction of rotation. I guess because what type of signal it wants, like leading or trailing. If that's still not what you're asking, sorry for being dense.

[90GTVert]

The new reg/rec came in. Same result. Good news is that if I turn the headlight on and rev, then it only sees a bit over 14V. May be sort of self regulating because of a low output and likely inability to spend long stretches of time at 10,000+ RPM.

The weather sucks. Raining, dense fog, etc... I did let it rip in the garage a few times. The scooter I mean. Nothing to do with the chili I ate. Anyway, it spins the tire nicely when I try to take off. Not a big accomplishment on a smooth garage floor, but it seems like there's more there than what I'm used to. It's more like what normally happens if the tire is damp or something. It would just spin till I crashed or made it to a different surface I think. Looking forward to seeing if that means it actually accelerates harder, tries to throw me off or if the ignition allows a better top end.

[90GTVert]

Latest update is up. Timing lights, reg/rec issues and tests for future reference.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=XzY5KVFBxfM