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Post by tsimi on Dec 18, 2019 5:18:20 GMT -5
90GTVertJust saw your latest video with the timing light issues. When i did my testing on my MVT Iggy i had no issues even past 10000 rpms. I used a timing light from aliexpress, Trisco is written on it. It's like $20 bucks. Quality-wise i would say Harbor Freight level. But simple to use, no dial in stuff.
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Post by 190mech on Dec 18, 2019 18:45:12 GMT -5
Got the 20mm rod in from McMaster-Carr yesterday,set up a small taper crank and set the compound to match it,then chucked up the rod and turned it to size,drilled and tapped the end to 1/4-28..Will cut the opposite end for big taper,so that should cover most all of the stuff out there now..   Will build up a "spark degree setup" like Frits Overmars spoke of also,so no timing light will be needed.. |
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Post by pitobread on Dec 19, 2019 9:49:09 GMT -5
PS,Does the timing marks on the unit have any bearing on where the actual spark is when running? Sorry it took a bit to reply. Wasn't sure what you were asking at first, but I guess you're asking about the MVT. There's no reluctor or pickup that I know of. The MVT actually doesn't have the standard exciter and pickup wires. It only uses the exciter wire, so I guess it bases the firing off of the same signal that provides energy for the spark. The mark on the rotor can align with one of 2 different marks on the stator, depending on direction of rotation. I guess because what type of signal it wants, like leading or trailing. If that's still not what you're asking, sorry for being dense.  It's just the poles swapping north south +/- that makes the field collapse. It's almost like points in a sense but there is no cam or points. Its solely the magnetic poles swapping and going high and low. |
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Post by 90GTVert on Dec 19, 2019 12:43:51 GMT -5
I ordered the timing light that seemingly everyone else is using the other day too. Got a 10% eBay bucks email and figured I'm so far into the timing lights that I just had to try the one that works for multiple people. That'll be slow with standard shipping and Christmas traffic though. Even if I can test it with what John is building, it would be nice to have a timing light that works and to share/demo that in a vid for anyone else that has an issue. If it doesn't work for me, then I'll know something must be different in my setup. Thanks for all of the effort John.
Hoping to test ride this thing early next week. After spending a bunch of time in the garage with it cold and damp, I got sick and the temps plummeted. I saw that it's supposed to be in the low-mid 50s early in the week so I'm gonna wait till then. It'll also be a little closer to where it was when I last rode with the stock ignition.
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Post by 90GTVert on Dec 25, 2019 8:13:03 GMT -5
I did some before and after testing, timed acceleration runs, and checked fuel consumption to compare to the modified stock ignition. Also checked the battery charging ability of the MVT Digital Direct. www.youtube.com/watch?v=K_vfiA5-bb8 |
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Post by 90GTVert on Dec 26, 2019 11:46:20 GMT -5
If you watched the video, you saw that I have charging issues now. The MVT can't keep up with my current lighting. When I first bought the Wysamic LED headlight, it said 42W. Now the listing says 30W low/45W high. Not sure which it actually is, but it was on low for testing. Tail light should be about 5W. So 35-47W contiuous, depending on the actual headlight consumption. Then probably another 10W if I have a brake light and turn signals on.
Someone on YouTube commented that the 50W is rated for continuous high RPM use. Sounds about right based on what I've seen.
For daytime riding, it could probably be a fairly simple solution. Install a DRL of some sort that's a low watt LED that is bright to look at but doesn't need to project. If I could get this light with an outer ring, halo or whatever they call it, then that may do it for daytime.
Unfortunately, that's not going to solve the issue that I will have for my favorite use of this scooter, which is car shows. A lot of those rides are after dark. Even if I haul the scooter in the truck, it can easily be 6 hours or more of light to light town riding and slow cruising. I'd want an actual headlight for that, and what I have doesn't seem like it has much chance of lasting 1/2 that long for that type of riding.
The only easy way I can think of to keep what I have and not worry too much would be to carry extra batteries and make up quick change harnesses so they could go in and out fast. Kind of a crutch, but it may have to be that way if I want to enjoy the shows. I could forget ever riding to and from a show again or randomly taking a long ride that would involve any night time if that were the only solution. I just can't carry around a bunch of batteries, or at least I'm not going to.
I could go back to AC powered lighting, which means a flickering headlight and tail light. Right now it's drawing much more than it is supplying at low RPM because it's battery powered and never dims. With AC it only draws what it makes. I did that for years with LEDs, watching them flicker at low RPM, but now I'm used to good lights and I'd rather not go back. Plus it's supposed to be harder on the lights to be supplied with AC and they are said to last longer with a DC supply. I guess I could use AC from the stator and run a rectifier just for the headlight circuit and maybe the lights would all dim at idle instead of flashing. If they get really dim, that doesn't sound so safe.
One YouTube comment says I should try a buck boost regulator and then I can set my headlight voltage to whatever level allows the system to stay charged and the light will just dim. The idea sounds OK at first, but if the voltage to allow battery maintenance is low enough that the light sucks, then it really doesn't solve anything.
That one also ties into the idea of just using a different headlight. My problem with that is, I've already hit one deer at night and I'm paranoid. I don't want a light that's not at least as bright as this, which is likely to mean I need at least this much power.
Someone suggested Li batteries. Maybe the capacity could be better with an Li battery that fits in my current battery box, but they can get expensive (especially if I still need multiple batts) and I thought they were more sensitive to charging voltage, which currently has a wide range that goes beyond 16V at times.
I'd actually be OK with the simple DRL solution, aside from shows. That's what kinda messes it up. So right now the best thing I can come up with is to do both a DRL and have spare batteries. I really don't ride much at night since the deer anyway, but I still don't like the idea of a scooter that I can't ride how I please. Pretty much, I'm getting into the territory of why I've never wanted a race oriented scooter before.
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Post by jloi on Dec 26, 2019 12:40:49 GMT -5
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Post by 90GTVert on Dec 26, 2019 13:41:35 GMT -5
would you be interested in something like this? it's a bit pricey but maybe you could go with a 5" headlight instead of the 7.and maybe a different H4 ? with your skills you'll be done before I am. I found this 38watt H4 and this bulb /reflector to put it in and I got this set of rings off Amazon for $21.99 . I already mounted everything in the rings and it fits perfectly ; and on my scoot I still have plenty of clearance for turning radius. If you'd like some links to any of this let me know . also the H4 is DC. Thanks. Current light is 5.75". If I could find a housing for an H4 and an H4 that uses less power, but puts out good light, that may be an option. That or a different 5.75" LED housing. Not that I couldn't build a new headlight bracket setup, but it would certainly be easier if I didn't have to. I know there are 30W H4 LEDs that claim to be very bright. I'd have to figure out what mine really is to know if that would be of use. If I could drop 12W, it may be worth it. If it's the same as my current low beam, not so much. |
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Post by oldgeek on Dec 26, 2019 14:34:27 GMT -5
How about a seperate circuit for the headlight/DRL that is powered by a Dewalt battery? I have seen mounts with contacts for the Dewalt batteries on Feebay. The Dewalt lithium batteries have amazing power density.
Actually you could set up a switch that allows you to use the Dewalt battery or the onboard charging and wet battery depending on your needs.
I have been thinking about how to set up an DC iggy, no flywheel just a trigger for the CDI. No onboard charging at all, just rechargeable Dewalt batteries. It should suffice for my local cruising trips.
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Post by jloi on Dec 26, 2019 15:21:50 GMT -5
in case you want to look at this stuff - Here is the link for the H4 and I got the Hella to put it in at the same place . I never did see the Hella before it came or have any specs for it other than what he told me over the phone. He told me it is for some kind of off road bike; called it a Rally reflector and that his H4 would fit in it. it was $40.00 from him . If I remember right it's the same one he fit's the H4 into in the video on this page- scroll down for his video - www.cyclopsadventuresports.com/Cyclops-100-H4-LED-headlight-bulb_p_192.html- 5600k - Chips are 38 watts, drivers run at 28 watts, bulb pulls 28 watts total - Removable metal base plate for easy install. - Screw on connectors at driver - Standard H4 connector - High / Low Beams
black rings - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072LQ85H2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1BTW, my ring came with high gloss black and all black bolts,springs,screws- not matte black ; and it seems like a quality sturdy steel and springs and nicely painted |
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Post by 190mech on Dec 26, 2019 18:53:39 GMT -5
Been poking away at the spark tester/no timing light mod,,got side tracked a few days as my test CDI was a $7 China RACING CDI and would get a steady double spark at 2 points,initial and waay advanced!Tried all sorts of different setups,then swithed out the CDI box for the old flatliner blue special..it read dead nuts through all revs,soo time wasted due to testing unknown products!! youtu.be/Zwfm9Cruexc |
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Post by 90GTVert on Dec 26, 2019 19:17:40 GMT -5
Very cool! I got the cheap timing light in. It says Trisco on it like the one that tsimi got on AliExpress. Haven't tried it yet. |
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Post by tsimi on Dec 26, 2019 20:36:16 GMT -5
Nice!  That was fairly quick for a china order. Curious to see if that cheapo light is gonna do the trick for you.
Holding my breath......now!  |
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Post by pitobread on Dec 26, 2019 23:19:02 GMT -5
I would just get a 25/25w led headlight. you can get a 1w tail light that is still bright and go from there.
If you idle a bunch yeah the battery will go dead. It's not the best for that. I have a Motobatt AGM that I use that does ok. or you can get a large lithium one.. but if it doesn't charge enough the end result is the same.. you will have to charge it between rides.
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Post by 190mech on Dec 27, 2019 10:42:09 GMT -5
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That was fairly quick for a china order.
