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Post by 90GTVert on Dec 27, 2019 18:17:29 GMT -5
The Trisco (cheapo) timing light does work as high as I revved it (~13,000RPM)! I'd never be able to read it very well just watching it live. It flickers and it's a handful just to try to modulate the revs and hold the light on there. Once it gets to pipe hitting range, it gets pretty hard to keep RPM where I want it at all. My TTO tach goes just over 10,000RPM and then reads low. I ended up setting up a GoPro with about 10 extensions and direction changers so it could look at the Vapor, which reads high RPM fine.
I'm gonna load the vid from both cameras on here, sync them, and see what I can tell. It is obvious now that it retards a lot once RPM comes up. Hopefully I'll be able to get a curve mapped out. May have to do some more tries. The engine was good and hot (no working water pump for timing check) so I quit where I was after a couple of heat cycles.
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Post by Kenho21 on Dec 27, 2019 18:28:34 GMT -5
Congrats! Been quite the struggle to get that reading! Gotta feel good.
Actually... Merry Christmas! I talked to all the folks here on the forum and that's what we got you for Xmas, a timing curve. haha
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Post by 90GTVert on Dec 27, 2019 19:26:50 GMT -5
Actually... Merry Christmas! I talked to all the folks here on the forum and that's what we got you for Xmas, a timing curve. haha lol Thanks! It's just what I wanted! Merry Christmas! I got the vids synced up, but I'll have to take a few more stabs at it probably. The mark disappears so often that it's tough to get it in all spots. Not sure if it will do anything different or if those will remain trouble spots. I could do a halfway decent map to just over 12,000RPM ATM, but I'd like to verify with more shots if possible. Right now, it looks like it peaks at 42-43 degrees BTDC around 5,500RPM. Then it starts falling to as low as 17 BTDC just over 12,000RPM. So pretty close to the 25 degrees of retard that ryan_ott and pitobread have talked about or shown. |
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Post by 90GTVert on Dec 28, 2019 0:05:11 GMT -5
Been sitting around looking at this stuff frame by frame (talk about an active Friday night). This is about as good as I can get from the videos I have so far. I would like to see if it keeps retarding beyond 12-12.5k, but I don't know if I'm going to be able to. If what I have for 12,000 & 12,500 is correct, it's leveling out and only changing about a half of a degree there. 13,000RPM seems like so much when you're trying to hold the throttle on an engine with no load. Even 10,000RPM that seems routine when riding seems like a hell of a lot when the engine is in front of your face on a bench. Click to enlarge.  The 35 @ 2000 is kind of a guess. Even trying to look at frames, I can't tell. It bounces all around. |
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Post by 190mech on Dec 28, 2019 0:50:52 GMT -5
COOL!Between -0- and 2000 its ramping up from base timing so thats likely your jumping around problem,,Thats tough on an engine in a no load condition but now we can see just what the MVT mystery curve is!!  |
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Post by pitobread on Dec 28, 2019 10:17:15 GMT -5
I would probably shift the whole curve down 3 degrees. The ramp up is probably so it doesn't start backwards sometimes.  Thats the MHR Team CDI curve(s) by comparison. |
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Post by pitobread on Dec 28, 2019 12:36:53 GMT -5
Also what is the code on the side of that CDI?
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Post by pitobread on Dec 28, 2019 12:59:06 GMT -5
Sorry the above is the old Malossi Team this is the one on the new Team II  The maps that hold timing longer at peak are the small bore, and the big bore are the other ones. There are also 2 4t maps on them but they curve the other way so mostly useless. |
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Post by 90GTVert on Dec 28, 2019 13:04:30 GMT -5
Also what is the code on the side of that CDI? RJ34-6 Thanks for the maps. I may just leave it be for now since I'm happy with how it is working so far and I'm not hearing any signs of knock. Plug is still wet wand washed as well with the only color being right around the ground strap, though some have told me it is an absolute must to change jetting with these ignitions. I just went out and revved it to 14,600 being the max I saw holding it WOT for a second. I don't think it wanted to go higher because it was kinda surging at that point. I'll check the vids later to see if I can map it any higher than 12,500. Right now, it's 60 degrees and I don't think the TMAX has moved for a month or probably more so I'm gonna go burn some old gas and enjoy what is a really warm day for Dec 28th here. |
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Post by 90GTVert on Dec 28, 2019 19:58:36 GMT -5
Spent some more time on it. Made a finished product. This is about as good as it's gonna get from me. It does look like it continues to retard once I held it at high RPM. Click to enlarge to 4K.  |
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Post by 190mech on Dec 28, 2019 20:07:28 GMT -5
Cant see the RPM part of the graph,,maybe its me..  |
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Post by 90GTVert on Dec 28, 2019 20:12:37 GMT -5
Cant see the RPM part of the graph,,maybe its me.. Even if you enlarge it? I can see it fine shrunken or full size. I hope it's just something with your setup, because I just spent an hour or two putting lines in manually counting pixels for proper spacing for individual degrees since the program I use to make the graph only did 5 degree increments. |
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Post by 90GTVert on Dec 28, 2019 20:14:13 GMT -5
Here's one resized to 800 width. Just curious if it makes any difference and you can see that.  |
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Post by 190mech on Dec 28, 2019 20:18:59 GMT -5
HECK YEAH!,see it now,maybe the Linux penquin was on break when I first opened it...  |
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Post by 90GTVert on Jan 2, 2020 14:49:11 GMT -5
Not exactly a total solution to my charging issues, but I ordered THIS for a start. It's the same headlight that I have, but now you can get it with an LED halo around it. The halo has it's own power wire. If anyone else looks for similar stuff, that sounded like a given to me but some don't allow the DRL lights to be used on their own so make sure you check if that matters. My light switch has off/parking/headlight functionality. When I made the new harness, I didn't worry about the parking functionality because I didn't see a need for it. Now I'll need to create a new circuit that will allow me to run just the halo LEDs as a DRL along with my tail light. Won't help me at night, but at least it's an easy solution for daytime riding as long as it's pretty bright (which it appears to be from some amazon customer images). I still haven't checked my current lights actual power consumption, but this one and the current one claim 30W low beam. I don't think I'm going to do a whole lot better for a headlight that actually works. I also don't think I'm likely to improve my tail/brake setup with a significant change in draw. I'm sure I can get small lights that draw less and still look bright, but I've messed with custom lights for years and nothing has been cheaper, brighter, and more reliable for me than these truck/trailer lights mounted in grommets. I think it will likely have to come down to hauling the scoot to car shows and bringing spare batteries so I don't have to worry about night riding, unless I want to convert to AC powered lights... and I really don't. Some areas of OC where the shows are are pretty well lit, but I don't know if I can get away with just a DRL and even if I could it may be a reason to get pulled over (as if I won't create enough of those anyway). |
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