Triton # 1 (T1) : Liquid Cooled Conversion & Updates

[90GTVert]

I have nothing but four letter words for this scoot right now. Had a chance to get a test ride in while people are here to watch granny, but instead I kicked it over 150 times (not an exaggeration) and it fired up 2 times, about a second each. This thing needs so much fuel to get started and if it's not just right it will flood. Not sure if that's a weak ignition or maybe the timing sucks for starts. I have to have it as far retarded as the NCY stator will allow for best performance. The larger carb and ports and stuff that make it run hard at high RPM are not doing me any favors at kicking RPM.

[stepthrutuner]

From following the thread evidence seems point to ignition problems. Can you check the strength of the spark? (Gap jump?) Tried an iridium for this app?

Did you do a compression gauge read on it? You might try the low comp. ratio head for easier spark propagation.

I know you'll straighten it out. Good luck!

[90GTVert]

I'll have to check the spark with the HEI tester. I just had it out and I can't even remember if it's an iridium plug. lol

Haven't done a compression test. New rings and piston, honed cylinder, 7:1 effective compression. Never bothered to check the psi, but I will.

[90GTVert]

I think you called it Reg. When I kick it over with the HEI tester I get 0-1 spark. Just to be sure I remembered correctly, I used the same tester and kicked over a different engine I get a series of sparks. I think they're also louder sparks (hard to tell with little air and exhaust restriction on T1 making it even louder while kicking).

Not sure yet if it's something to do with the NCY ignition or maybe the coil. The coil is the first performance coil I ever bought for a scoot ("SS" from daywot on eBay), since this is my original scoot. That's gotta put it at about 6-7 years old.

[90GTVert]

I swapped the coil first. That did nothing. I haven't been trying to start it, just watching the HEI spark tester, looking for a more reliable spark or sparks. I kicked the crap out of it to see a max of 35VAC on the charging coil, but usually more like 15V. I think that could be the issue. When I was checking T2's coil the other day, I got 90V. On the trigger wire, I see about 0.6V. T2's stock stator did about the same. Not sure if the NCY is weak because of it's design, or it's actually got a problem. Swapped in another CDI as well and again no improvement.

I'll prob swap in a stock stator/flywheel and see if it improves. I have another NCY in a box. Was hoping to sell it someday, but I may put it on and see if it does the same.

[stepthrutuner]

Damn, I'm sorry it's being such a bitch for you but it seems you're hound-dogging on the right trail. You could have a near wire failure too somewhere and those can be hard to find.

[90GTVert]

Well, it's only been 11 years since I've updated this thread or actually worked on T1. For anyone not checking back to page 1, this is the first scooter that I owned and I think rode, bought brand new from a dealer nearly 20 years ago. Look what this thing started. LOL



T2 (it's Triton brother) has been, frankly, pissing me off lately since the addition of a 34mm PWK to it's RC-One. About 2 cylinder kits ago in that fiasco, I decided that I should try to get T1 going again... cheap. A backup scoot, something for a friend to ride, another toy... whatever. So, I dragged it out of the corner and pulled the cover off.











The front brake has leaked and corroded, so that will be replaced at some point.







I don't like the brake/tail/turn signals. I wanted it all blacked out, again long ago, and tinted some LED stuff. Then it was dim. Now I much prefer not being hit by cars, so they need to be changed.





I'm not even sure what engine is in it. I guess a 103cc air cooled. Doesn't matter. The 1E40QMB with TPR 86cc is just sitting around so I'm hoping to convert this to a liquid cooled scoot.







Rewind a couple of months (before I knew I'd need to order 2 cylinder kits for the other two-stroke). I ordered a few parts. Largely from AliExpress, but the radiators were eBay and the water pump and pigtail for it were Amazon. I have a mechanical pump on the 86cc, but I will probably switch to electric either immediately or at least before long. I still have more that I need to get, but it was a start without even looking the scoot over first.





The one thing that stood out to me are the turn signals. I got 4 under $20 and they are heavy and feel well made and they're very bright. If they hold up on the scoot, I'm gonna be impressed.







I pulled the front off and it was immediately apparent than the front being lowered by changing where the tubes are clamped created potential clearance issues if I ever want radiators nearby. I shortened both shocks 2" instead. I had it lowered 2 3/8", but it felt like I was pointed at the ground when sitting on the scoot so I backed it off a little. Plus, that leaves a little travel in the shocks.











I'd like to get the radiators mounted next. Before that, the 1994-2002 Kawasaki KX125/KX250 radiators had some extra brackets to be removed. You can see in one pic that the finish on the brackets that I'm keeping is poor from the factory.









That's as far as I've made it. I don't think I can hide these much at all. They may wind up sitting totally behind the leg shield. The fork takes up so much space that I can't fit the radiators in the fairing. Doesn't really matter.

[sinfull]

Good looking bike, good Therapy for you as well 👍

[aeroxbud]

Nice to see it getting worked on again.
You might be better off replacing the brake master cylinder for one with an external reservoir. Then it wouldn't have the reservoir at such an angle.

[Lucass2T]

You started on T2 before I joined this forum so I've never seen T1.
I always thought you upgraded it to the scrapper and moved on with T2...until now
Looks like a nice back up scoot, especially with the TPR86 motor in it. Or for old times sake keep it OG like it was when you started all this.
I think here in Europe the Triton is called CPI Hussar. I always felt like it stole the head light from a MK1 Gilera Runner and the tail light from a MK1 Yamaha Aerox. Those parts might just swap out.
It thats the case you can find some nice aftermarket blacked out aerox tail light setup.

[billwill]

I picked up my Vento Triton wayyy back too in like 2008 or 2009. Not new, it's a 2004 model, but wild to me that I've had it so long too. They were one of the good and cheap minarelli clones!

Excited to see you getting into something new, or old LOL! Reminds me of digging mine out from behind the shed last year and reviving it a bit.

What's the deal with that front wheel?

[90GTVert]

Aug 2, 2024 5:18:13 GMT -5 aeroxbud said:

Nice to see it getting worked on again.
You might be better off replacing the brake master cylinder for one with an external reservoir. Then it wouldn't have the reservoir at such an angle.

I'm going to use an AliExpress lever that I had on T2 before the Adelin levers. Not as good as the Adelin, but not bad. The angle doesn't have to be that extreme. I just used to rotate them like that.

Aug 2, 2024 7:47:15 GMT -5 Lucass2T said:

for old times sake keep it OG like it was when you started all this.

It would be a whole lot easier than putting radiators on it... but the 103cc isn't quite as strong as the TPR 86cc and the LC stuff is more consistent and reliable when it's right. You know, it's hard to go backwards. I have thought about a good old 70cc AC sport kit... but then I realized I probably wouldn't have a great desire to ride it. I'll drag the TaoTao out if I wanna be slow. Two 14,000RPM scoots sounds like a great idea though! 😁

Aug 2, 2024 8:27:53 GMT -5 billwill said:

What's the deal with that front wheel?

It's a 12" pit bike wheel. I used to have it on my old Keeway Venus when I switched forks and went disc brake up front and then I used it on T1 for a bit to save weight/friction and sort of a drag look. I'll be going back to my neon yellow Triton wheels. Those are probably the other half of why I want to do this. I miss having ridiculously bright wheels... even though the Aerox wheels on T2 were supposed to be the same color. 🤨

I'd like to get the dude that I've built multiple Honda stroker bottom ends for to do paint on this, but that will have to wait. He said he'd hook me up because of all I've done with his engines, but I'm broke broke ATM so pretty ain't happening yet.

[90GTVert]

I made up a couple of M6 threaded pieces and welded them onto the frame to give me mounting points for a radiator bracket. I haven’t touched the flux core welder for a while and welds started out rough. Not like they’re ever great from me.




I made 4 adapters to help mount the radiators.






I’m using 1/8” x 1” steel for the bracket. The scoot is asymmetrical so the bracket had to be bent odd.








I ran out of steel and it’s only about half done

[90GTVert]

I tried to leave the VIN access panel open just in case anyone ever wants to check it. The bad part about the setup is that I'll have to unbolt the radiators to install/remove the front plastic. They should be able to tilt/move without total removal I hope.




I don't have the headlight bulb socket for the BA20D. I suddenly realized that Triton parts are hard to come by. Wound up ordering one for a TaoTao. I thought I swapped mine into my TaoTao long ago so TaoTao should fit this. It came today and isn't right for my housing.

[90GTVert]

I went through my wiring stuff and found an old BA20D socket. Not sure if it was from the TaoTao or Triton, but it fits better... but wrong. It's really tight. Hard grip with pliers to twist kind of tight. Once it's in, it's in though. For now I've put the new terminals in it from the one that I just got and wired it to the right connector for this scoot. I could probably sand some stuff and make it fit better, but it may stay that way for now.




I worked on the front brake. The RPM setup on T2 has spacers to fit the 220mm caliper. They came with it, but this one didn't include any spacers so I made a couple myself.






The bracket had to have the section in red marker removed or the fork ran into it. I also had to run a tap through the M8x1.25 threads because bolts started and immediately got tough.




I got it all mounted up. Had to cut some long bolts down because the included bolts were too short with spacers. I used 2mm washers between the shock and caliper bracket to center the disc in the caliper (stock wheel, stock wheel spacers). Then I look at it and realize the caliper is way out there. Turns out it didn't need spacing at all so I wasted my time with those and cutting the bolts down. That's what I get for assuming it was just like the other. Also, I noticed this is RPM Racing and the original stuff was RPM Motor. Not sure if this is a knockoff of a knockoff or what. Caliper seems on par. The bracket is not the same fit and finish.






I put a new used lever on and a brand new hose and got the front brake bled. Bungee around the lever now to let it firm up even more the easy way.


I'd like to give the paint more time, but I was trying to get some stuff done. There's a ride at the beach with likely 20 or more bikes (mostly small stuff like scoots and Groms). A bud wants me to make it with one of the 2Ts. T2, no way. This one I thought maybe... but it's now Thursday night and I've got so much work to do just to get it together, let alone running well. He wants me to rush, but I'm not half-assing it (more than usual I mean) to make some ride. It's not like this is a really nice build or something, but cut corners tend to catch up and I'll have enough issues without being in a hurry. If I want to go that bad I'll show up on the TMAX. I'll probably be tired and sore and not feel like riding an hour and a half to go ride some more and then ride another hour home in the dark through deer country at unreasonable speeds.






I looked through my grommets and nothing was right for running the 5/8" heater hose through the floorboard. It's probably fine, but I don't much like the idea of hose going through with no grommet. I had a valve cover breather grommet from way back when I spent my garage time on V8 Mustangs, and it happened to work quite well for the heater hose. I only had 1, but I just picked up another from AutoZone for $9. Actually cheaper on amazon if you need 2, because the Spectre kit has 2 different sizes in the pack. Both are 1 1/4" hole, but one is 3/4" ID and the other is 1" ID. 1" ID works well for this Gates heater hose.






I'm gonna have to cut the side stand shorter. I cut it once when I first lowered this scoot over a decade ago, but it barely leans. I have a hard time working on some stuff because any pressure makes it wanna start coming off of the stand. I even use a bungee to pull it toward the stand just a little so it won't bounce off of the Mustang in the middle of the night.