Triton

[90GTVert]

Yes, you can plug the exhaust pipe.

[Reign]

There we go! Finally a day where my tune is almost right on! It's been a constant mess of weather lately. One day it'll be 90, the next 50, next 75 etc. Today I got to see just how nice this thing runs when it's 75 and slightly humid out.

First off, I wasn't even really "in tune" for the majority of my ride to the store. Found that out when I was a few blocks from my house and I messed with the air screw

Hitting it WOT down a main street, I saw my bicycle speedo hit 52 MPH, and then start counting backwards ;D I've got the Shwinn speedo, so it does that. I'd say I was probably doing 55ish at WOT!

Oh, and the front wheel came off the ground again when I left my driveway :wheelie:

[drawkward]

Pics or it didn't happen.

Glad to hear you got a good ride out of her!

[Reign]

It's been a while since I've posted! Just wanted to let you guys know that I'm finally starting to get the Triton dialed in where it should be. It's amazing how cumbersome the job of finding the right jet combination is

I was running a 35 idle jet for the last few weeks, with lots of bog after the engine warmed up. So today after it got cool out, I threw in a 40 idle jet. I figured if the bog got worse, I would reverse and go down instead of up. Well, I think it might need more like a 42.5 or 45, but it's close!

Ever since I put the new carb on, it never mattered whether I moved the air screw in or out. There was never any audible change in RPM either way, but it seemed to help the performance, at least. That changed with the 40 jet. I finally got some audible feedback. Not only that, but after I tuned it up a bit, it took off from a stop sign with little to no bog. It felt like all of those videos I see where people hit the gas and there's a teeny tiny bit of lag and then it's full RPM.

Right now the air screw is almost all the way out of it's threads. If I unscrew it anymore it'll just fall out I remember Brent saying something about out is rich on this carb. The RPM's shot up when I turned it out, so that seemed odd to me. Unless it was just so lean that richening it made it better. Either way, I plan on testing a 45 tomorrow and seeing where that lands me. If it's worse, I'll shoot for the 37.5 ;D

I haven't touched my main jet in over a month, and iirc I'm running a 92. It got a lot better on the top end when I went from the 98 to the 92, but I'm still only hitting about 45 top speed, downhill. I might have to go to an 88.

Ok, I feel like I'm rambling now. I wish you all the best of luck on your projects, and that you all have a fun summer of scooting! Now that it seems summer has finally paid Wisconsin a visit :clap:

[mccanic]

right summers finally here!

[Reign]

Anybody have any ideas where I can get/what I can do for a head gasket on my Polini Sport kit? I really don't want to have to spend $20+ on another gasket kit that includes the exhaust and base gaskets. The one it comes with is a o-ring style gasket. Would it be possible to use the other type? Or if not, do you know of anywhere that sells just the o-ring gaskets on their own?

[lshigham]

If you measure the o ring, you might be able to find one from an o ring supplier?

[Reign]

Nov 1, 2011 17:11:03 GMT -5 lshigham said:

If you measure the o ring, you might be able to find one from an o ring supplier?

Aren't they made of something special to hold up to the heat?

[90GTVert]

You can get o-rings that are resistant to high temps and chemicals.

www.marcorubber.com/materialguide.htm

[2strokd]

If all your running is the o-ring then obviously squish settings arent a problem.. Just run some RTV orange and be done with it. No gasket at all. I do it all the time for tighter squish settings.

[2strokd]

The RTV black works well too! Ive found all the grey "ridged" stuff to be too ridged and wont flex with the head and ends up leaking.

[Reign]

Nov 2, 2011 8:38:03 GMT -5 2strokd said:

The RTV black works well too! Ive found all the grey "ridged" stuff to be too ridged and wont flex with the head and ends up leaking.

I went and picked up a small tube of RTV black. I think I'm gonna reuse my o-ring, smeared with some of that. I'll use it to put my case back together too. Thanks Robert :cheers:

[Reign]

Been too busy working on other things lately, that the Triton motor has been sitting in the basement this whole time. Finally got a bit of time to work on it yesterday evening, and got all the ports matched. I did some port matching before, without splitting the case apart, and now I see that it was a terrible job. Now it's nearly perfect. Next I plan to print out a degree wheel and see where I'm at with my ports.

[Reign]

Finally got around to working on the Triton again! I made up a degree wheel and such, took some measurements. Yesterday I posted my port map here: 49ccscoot.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=2perform&thread=176&page=2#45992

Here's my info I've gathered so far.

0° TDC
94° Exhaust open
124° Boost/Transfer open
180° BDC All ports completely open (exhaust is only about 90% open)
236° Boost/Transfer closed
266° Exhaust closed
360° TDC

172° Exhaust duration
112° Boost/Transfer duration

Now I really don't know what any of these numbers mean in the long run, or what I'm looking for. Hopefully one of you guys can tell me what to look for.

Here's some pictures of my setup:





Exhaust port just opening

[190mech]

Graham Bell's book goes through this well.If this is a race motor you'll want around 195+ total Ex duration and 130-132 Tr durations.Ex port should be 65% of bore diameter(chord wise).
Brent has all this very well documented(as usual) elsewhere..