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Post by 90GTVert on Jul 4, 2013 8:29:32 GMT -5
Ouch. We bitch in the US about 1/4 to 1/2 the cost in reg fees and no inspections for 50cc "mopeds" as most states label them.
Sorry to hear you missed the event. Should be an awesome machine when it's done though, so still a lot to look forward to.
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Post by kevin55950 on Jul 4, 2013 12:21:44 GMT -5
Yes I know... I'm too lazy to work on it sometimes lol. I love having all my stuff on hands, like when I start working on it I don't stop until everything is assembled. When I have everything I start working on a scooter early in the morning and don't stop until it's assembled. Sometimes I start at 7am and stop at midnight. I hate to stop because a part is missing. I'll bring it to the S-W and see if someone interested to hear it has a waterpump left.
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Post by kevin55950 on Jul 4, 2013 13:12:25 GMT -5
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Post by moofus02 on Jul 4, 2013 21:09:25 GMT -5
Looking kick but cool
Sent from my SPH-L720 using proboards
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Post by kevin55950 on Jul 4, 2013 23:08:23 GMT -5
Front forks are installed the wrong way on the pictures.
I'll look for a low profile front tire because it looks like a mini-trail like this. I hope the wheelbase is long enough so I don't do a wheelie each time I try to accelerate lol
Do you have any good shock to suggest? This one will be too short. Are the Racing bros length adjustable ?
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Post by kevin55950 on Jul 5, 2013 22:56:10 GMT -5
Little problem I take it back home, put the seat, front fairing and a set of oem handlebar I had, sit on it and... Seat is really high ! As high as an SR50. If you already sit on a Jog you can tell how it's low, but that's not the case here. I'll need to fab engine mount by myself. It feels too high and too short. I'll make it longer and lower (front of engine sitting higher). Sadly yes I paid for something I'll have to do by myself again, job is well done, but I don't want to go back there, pay again and again. Important work is done so it's fine.  EDIT: I've put a screw to lock the engine mount at it's highest position, temporary solution. I'll see if I fab something else tomorrow, or if I deal with this engine mount. Looking close, iron isn't thick at all. It's not a full plate, it's a plate which is empty inside. Strong ? I'm not sure... |
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Post by kevin55950 on Jul 6, 2013 15:44:11 GMT -5
Solved the loose mount issue with some 3/8 washer, 3/8 by 4in. screw and 2 old Kawasaki Ninja clutch springs. I can adjust it to stiffer/smoother and adjust position with the notch. At least I keep the engine mount ''suspension'' with this method.  Now, I need to find shims to align the engine/wheel. I may use clips as OEM but it's tricky to align them. |
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Post by aeroxbud on Jul 6, 2013 17:30:10 GMT -5
Solved the loose mount issue with some 3/8 washer, 3/8 by 4in. screw and 2 old Kawasaki Ninja clutch springs. I can adjust it to stiffer/smoother and adjust position with the notch. At least I keep the engine mount ''suspension'' with this method. Now, I need to find shims to align the engine/wheel. I may use clips as OEM but it's tricky to align them. See this is why we never throw anything away. We know at some point, we will need it, Now if I just had those Ninja clutch springs  |
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Post by kevin55950 on Jul 6, 2013 19:41:35 GMT -5
Not having any good shims to center the engine, I mounted the radiator with brackets. (yes, it's huge for a scooter) The seat is next in the list. I can't mount the compartment due to carburetor placement, and I will need space for a new gas tank and coolant reserve. I'll have to go buy more steel plates tomorrow.  |
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Post by kevin55950 on Jul 9, 2013 2:36:04 GMT -5
VERY VERY frustrating issue today: I brought new crankshaft nuts at local Yamaha dealer to be SURE I don't strip the threads... what do you think happened ?  Good threads (10X1 for ignition). But a little off with those screws, by screwing them by hand made my threads became thin at some places. I'll need to split cases to repair this... At least, variator side is not affected (didn't tried it after what happened to ignition) and ignition side is only broken for some mm from the beginning so it will be easy with the crankshaft on hands. That's the second time I have this kind of screws (from the same place), and that's the second time they make this. I don't know why, but it only happens with this kind of screws. I'll get Aprilia oem screw for vari side ( 12X1.25) and TRUE yamaha oem screw for ignition. |
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Post by 190mech on Jul 9, 2013 5:39:40 GMT -5
I thought the iggy side uses a M10x1.25?
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Post by kevin55950 on Jul 9, 2013 12:09:34 GMT -5
I asked for ign and vari side nuts. As I know mine is 10X1. That's what he gave me.
I'll repair it, no choice. I hope to have time this week to repair it.
If I was able to repair threads on the case it would be awesome.
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Post by 190mech on Jul 9, 2013 14:15:17 GMT -5
I measured 2 cranks I have,both M10x1.25.They are Taiwan cranks though..
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Post by 2strokd on Jul 9, 2013 17:30:04 GMT -5
Dang it man!   |
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Post by kevin55950 on Jul 9, 2013 22:57:20 GMT -5
At least they will not see me again.
This dealer is WAY overpriced on everything ( will you pay $300 plus taxes for a Malossi Sport cast iron cylinder kit ? )
I only go there when I need a part fast. I talked to an employee about this and he told me my crank was worn and blah blah blah. Not their fault if their 5$ ea. nuts are not the good ones.
Euro parts are having non-standard threads sometimes. Stage6 gears for SR50 (example) used M10X1.25 nut instead of the oem M10X1.5
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