Venus 50 (Now 96cc!)

[90GTVert]

10MPH winds, 65 degrees, very low humidity.

I've still got a Polini Sport kit that will fit. That'll probably end up on there.

[stepthrutuner]

Sounds like ripe conditions for running lean. I had a stiff tailwind when mine seized at light throttle.

[90GTVert]

There was a headwind at the time, but I think he was going down a hill. He was stopped holding the brake just as a big dip starting going back up.

I pulled the motor this morning and here's what I found...











There are some pretty rough gouges in the cylinder. I know they say you can treat these with acid, but with some of these gouges it would need to be re-coated I'd think. I'm glad this kit was only $100 on eBay. At least that way it went far enough to only cost about $1/mile.

There were (hopefully that's the correct tense) some aluminum bits in the crankcase. I held the engine vertically and sprayed the hell out of the crankcases with carb cleaner and repeated a few times. I'm sure that technically I should be splitting the cases and cleaning or replacing the bearings. It's not gonna happen right now though. I'm letting it air out for a few while I post this and then the Polini Sport is going on. I'll check the carb and if the needle isn't all the way up, it will be. Might stick a 90 main in there too. It sure never looked lean at WOT, but all it takes is one lean spot.

I suppose the bright side would be that I should have a nice head to head comparison of the Airsal T6 vs the Polini Sport. i know the tuning is my fault, but the fact that these aluminum cylinders are more likely to melt pistons certainly gives it bad marks in one area already. Add in that I liked the cast iron stuff better for street anyway (before ever trying one) because they can be honed easily if this sort of thing happens.

[2strokd]

Im blaming the stock carb!
Man, shit! Im sorry! I still gotta 47mm 10pin piston John gave me if ya need!
That is if i dont burn my up this weekend lol!

[90GTVert]

This thing is 12mm, but thanks. Not so sure the cylinder is any good anyway. Look at the bottom pic at the really shiny bit on the left of the boost port, between in and the transfers. That's not just a little scrape. It's gouged in to the point that it's bare rough aluminum.

The Polini Sport is on already. The needle was in the highest position. I moved up from an 85 main to an 89 main. The Arreche never would get in tune just right, but maybe I should try it again? I dunno. I wanna get the engine back in and the carb tuned by the end of the day and I've got some other stuff to do for half the day. My father told me last night that he was disappointed because he had assumed we'd be riding at some point this weekend. I told him I might be able to get both of 'em up and running by the time he was off of work. I straightened the SunL's electrical issues out last night, so I'm sorta half way there. If I can get 'em both going something stupid will probably happen. It just seems like every time I get 2 scoots running well one or both has a major failure soon after. I almost had 3 running then the crank went in T2. I got the Sunl going well after so long fiddling with it since I've had it and now I lose a BBK.

[2strokd]

Im sure it will be fine to ride this weekend with the sport kit!
Those puppies are bullet proof! Almost . Ya know what i mean, lol.
I soft seized mine a few times and its still good. Taking it to my dads and putting on his ride .
Glad you still had it to put on!

[190mech]

Easy-Off oven cleaner used to be the ticket for removing aluminum
from cyl walls,spray it on,wait a while,remove with scotch brite pad..The new formula does not work as well,guess they got sued
by some angry house wife who burned her hand...

[Fox]

#89 seems small to me for a BBK. I have three 50cc carbs that came with #95's from the factory.

[90GTVert]

I stuck the Arreche on with an 85 main and fiddled around with pilot jets and needle settings and it still doesn't run that great. It's got plenty of fuel and oil, because it smokes all the time. I really hate this Arreche carb. It's only bright point is that it's bigger than stock and can be setup like a stock carb to use the airbox and oil injection and stock manifold. The only problem is, the stock carb is better than it. I seem to make the same power with the stock carb, and it's easier to tune... well... until you melt a piston. lol

Needs trans tuning as well. It takes off hard. The Polini kit really seems to have more torque. Then it "shifts" I guess and just slips the whole time. It finally catches and takes off OK. If you get off and on the gas there's nothing unless it's revved high though. I think that's part carb and part trans. Never had one slip and shift like this one, but I've never had one take off as hard as this scoot either.

[190mech]

Have you had your torque drive apart yet?Might be sticking a bit..
Stock carb should work as long as the needle is not too thick at part throttle settings,pull the carb and mark the needle from 1/4 to
3/4 throttle with a felt tip pen,remove the needle and remove a few thousands of inch in that area,you can also buy a richer needle,here is a chart;
www.motorcyclecarbs.com/Mikuni_Jet_Needle_Dimension_Ch_W121C37.cfm#Series%206

[90GTVert]

Haven't had the tq driver apart. I'll check that out tomorrow after I switch carbs.

[stepthrutuner]

I was leaving a comment earlier but did some searching elsewhere and lost it.

Sadly, I agree, that kit is a write off. Sorry, man.

One thing that came to mind is, wasn't that pipe's inlet diameter something of a mismatch with the flange port after you enlarged it? This could have caused pulse weakness due to this "step' and have made for a weak negative scavenging pulse all the way back through the xfers to the carb throat. Sounds good on paper anyway. I'm coming to the conclusion that smaller diameter exh. ports help maintain high pulse energy which is what your expansion chamber works best with.

[90GTVert]

I just cleaned up the port on the T6. The SP3 to T6 match wasn't ideal, but aside from killing itself, it ran well.

[90GTVert]

I took the tq driver apart last night and cleaned it and re-greased it. It looked fine, but WTH. Scuffed up the clutch bell and shoes just to be sure my bases were covered while I was there. Stuck it back together and it wouldn't start. It was a fuel issue it seemed and I wanted to switch back to the stock carb anyway, so I just let it sit.

Switched carbs and it fired right up. Still has the shift slip. I tried swapping to another belt, still did it. I tried different amounts of spacers or no spacers. Still did it. I stuck one of the Hoca variators from the Tritons on there. Now it takes off hard... l spun the back tire on the concrete in the garage at part throttle and it wants to pull the front end up more than before. The Hoca vari is gonna stay on there. It still slips as it shifts though. Otherwise, it seems to pull hard. That slipping is going to murder belts so it's really gotta go somehow. I'm gonna try a 2K contra I think (1.5K now) and see if that puts the belt in it's place. My only other theory is that the filed varis or the fixed half that's filed is has too steep of an angle coming from the center to the rest of the ramp and maybe it's slipping trying to cross that for a moment. Not sure. All I really know right now is that I'm tired of burning my fingers on hot transmission parts.

On a semi-related note... or maybe just call this a fun fact... a recent Mythbusters episode showed that cursing increases your ability to deal with pain. I'm not trying it without so I may never know, but that's pretty interesting. lol Should that be in the tech tips section?

[Goosey]

Should that be in the tech tips section?

Most definitely. Now if throwing things is helpful, that would be good to know too