|
|
Post by oldgeek on Jan 28, 2013 20:09:48 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by oldgeek on Jan 29, 2013 21:18:04 GMT -5
I originally picked up the cases I am using on this build because I needed the clutch input shaft and gears from it to fix my Baccio. I got around to putting the gears in the Baccio a month ago, and they were tight for some reason, I rode it once and knew it would have to come back apart. I decided to pull them out of the Baccio this evening and put them back in the the engine I am building now to save me some money. I got them installed without too much trouble. However, when I went to assemble the CVT I had a hell of a time compressing the contra spring. I am fairly sure that the NARAKU 1500 spring I put in is going to be WAY to much. When I bought the contra spring, I also got a 2000 spring. I will be putting it up for sale cause I doubt I will ever need it LoL! I have never had any trouble compressing the stock contra springs by hand, but this one was so hard my wrists are killing me! My next challenge will be to get one of my 2 vento type gas tanks cleaned out. Both of them are full of rust. If anyone knows of a link to help me with that, please post.  CVT cover Look familiar? Yup, straight outta one of Brent's tutorials.  |
|
|
|
Post by 90GTVert on Jan 29, 2013 22:00:20 GMT -5
Looks good. Scroll down near the end of the thread and there's a bit about vinegar for rust removal. I have also heard others here say that shaking some BBs around in the tank is good to knock some rust loose. 49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/2755/chemicals?page=2 |
|
|
|
Post by 2strokd on Jan 29, 2013 22:43:36 GMT -5
Looks great! A chain in the tank works too.
|
|
|
|
Post by oldgeek on Jan 30, 2013 16:52:09 GMT -5
Looks good. Scroll down near the end of the thread and there's a bit about vinegar for rust removal. I have also heard others here say that shaking some BBs around in the tank is good to knock some rust loose. 49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/2755/chemicals?page=2Thanks Brent, I was looking all over for that post, but could find it. |
|
|
|
Post by oldgeek on Jan 30, 2013 16:54:27 GMT -5
Looks great! A chain in the tank works too. Thanks, for the hint. My scooter will never be a beauty queen, but neither will I! |
|
|
|
Post by 90GTVert on Jan 30, 2013 17:07:41 GMT -5
I was looking all over for that post, but could find it. OK, then I'll just quote the post... Vinegar is magic! Filled a 30 year old very rusty gas tank with the cheep stuff. Let it sit for 2 weeks and prest-o-change-o. All clean. After removal you have to instantly rinse well with baking soda and water to kill the acid or it will flash rust. Then power wash it out and rinse the water out with 2T oil for storage till use. Ive used it to clean rust off of lots of old MC parts.  |
|
|
|
Post by oldgeek on Jan 30, 2013 21:47:43 GMT -5
The 30ftlb torque stick I ordered the other day came in, so I used it to torque the clutch, variator, and flywheel. I had never even heard of a torque stick until I saw Brent use one in a video he did. I decided to give one a try since it seemed to solve the issue of getting the CVT stuff tightened up right. I need to get a 3/8 air impact to use with it because I think the 1/2 electric impact I have is a bit much. Anyway I got that done and moved on to pulling the engine with the bad crank out of the yellow yamati. I needed the center stand off of it for this project anyway. What a job it is to pull an engine out. Some of you make it look so easy! I am at a slight disadvantage due to my lack of decent work space, but it is better than the outdoors.  What a greasy mess!  |
|
|
|
Post by 2strokd on Jan 31, 2013 11:50:30 GMT -5
Agreed. a greasy mess.. But one with a good ex port and better cases over allot of Chinarelli,s IMO. Is that engine for sale?
|
|
|
|
Post by oldgeek on Jan 31, 2013 14:31:48 GMT -5
Agreed. a greasy mess.. But one with a good ex port and better cases over allot of Chinarelli,s IMO. Is that engine for sale? Sorry, its not for sale  It just needs a new crank. I have a brand new crank but it is in a short case at the moment. Is there a way to get the crank out of the short case without destroying it, or will a case splitter be the only way to go? Where can I pick up a case splitter for cheap? I would be willing to work out a trade for the brand new short case set with the crank and tranny gears already installed if someone has a large spline crank, and a pipe or something. |
|
|
|
Post by 190mech on Jan 31, 2013 15:17:24 GMT -5
An automotive steering wheel puller works well to split the cases with out damage,theyre cheap.Autozone has a rentals also..
|
|
|
|
Post by oldgeek on Jan 31, 2013 15:50:09 GMT -5
An automotive steering wheel puller works well to split the cases with out damage,theyre cheap.Autozone has a rentals also.. Hey! I got/had one of those somewhere in my shed, or was it a lock plate depressor? Not sure but I have 3 or 4 pullers of various types I bet I could make one work. Thanks for the ideas! |
|
|
|
Post by oldgeek on Jan 31, 2013 19:15:04 GMT -5
I took the engine that I pulled off of the yellow yamati to the car wash to clean it up a bit so I could take the center stand off to use on the 70cc build. I got home and had intentions of just getting the stand ,and brake parts off, but as usual I just couldn't stop there. I ended up pulling everything but the tranny apart. Whoever wrenched on this before I got it REALLY did some krap work IMO. Hard to believe it ran when I bought it considering what I found when I pulled it apart. The cases were pulled apart at some point and resealed with red RTV. All of the RTV squeezed out, mostly in big globs inside the cases, and phillips screws were holding the case halves together (is that normal?) The intake had no sealant and the bolts were loose, the oil pump & drive gear had no grease whatsoever, completely dry, and on the verge of failure. Here is a picture of the crank. I THINK  there are 2 things wrong with it besides the obvious fact that I used a sawzall to cut part of the splined shaft off so I could get the starting parts off easier. What do you think?  I don't think using a sealed bearing is correct, the other side is unsealed, and the small end of the rod is discolored. So was the piston pin bearing, and the piston pin. |
|
|
|
Post by oldgeek on Jan 31, 2013 22:08:48 GMT -5
I put the center stand, and the wheel on the 70cc build. I also worked on getting the frame ready to go by cleaning the oil and dirt off of it, and removing the oil tank since I will be going to premix. I also removed the brain box for the alarm, since I didn't get a remote with the scoot when I bought it. The alarm was under the front faring on this one, unlike the others I have seen that were under the seat area.
Its time to ask for advice on jetting. I will be using a stock sized mikuni carb, stock air box, and premix 50:1 amsoil sabre. From what I read on this forum, I think my starting point will be an 80 main. I don't know if the needle is adjustable in this carb, but if it is I assume it should be in the middle for starters. Please feel free to chime in with any suggestions you may have...I need all the help I can get.
Thanks
Scotty
|
|
|
|
Post by 90GTVert on Feb 1, 2013 1:07:20 GMT -5
Sounds about right on the jetting. I like to start in the middle position with the needle clip if I don't have any past experience with the setup.
Never seen a partially sealed bearing used on one of these.
|
|
It just needs a new crank. I have a brand new crank but it is in a short case at the moment. Is there a way to get the crank out of the short case without destroying it, or will a case splitter be the only way to go? Where can I pick up a case splitter for cheap?