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Post by oldgeek on Feb 4, 2013 18:54:00 GMT -5
I do 5 tanks of fuel. Before you WOT on a S/R. At least thats what I have found. And I found out the Same way you did. Now you tell me! Just kidding, better late than never. I have much to learn, this stuff is tough, but getting easier, and I like it! |
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Post by Corrosion on Feb 4, 2013 19:06:09 GMT -5
I now do 5 tanks of fuel. Before I WOT on a S/R. At least, thats what I have found. And I found out the Same way you did. I think the Coarse hone finish they use. Creates a lot of friction.
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Post by oldgeek on Feb 4, 2013 19:07:48 GMT -5
I'd add a larger jet now even if you are going to go easy on it. I just put an 85 in, but I wont be able to test anymore until at least tomorrow. The stock air box I have has a very hard poly intake tube attachment to the carb. It is NOT rubber like the one on my other scoot. I had a very hard time getting it on the carb when I first put this thing together, so hard that I attached it to the carb while it was off of the scooter. When I went to change the jet, I could not get the intake off. I had to rip it out of the airbox first, and then I still was barely able to get if off of the carb. Needless to say, It is not going back on. I think I have another airbox around here somewhere, if I cant find it I will order a new one. I need to order a brake cable anyways. |
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Post by oldgeek on Feb 4, 2013 19:11:13 GMT -5
FWIW, I have the sme BBK kit, and my stock exhaust also hangs out to the side by a fair amount. I went with the Stage6 pro replica, since it's rather cheap and has good performance. I figure it would match with the stage6 street race bbk better than any other pipe. Is the pro replica very loud? I want this build to be on the quiet side for now. |
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Post by aznatama on Feb 4, 2013 19:48:33 GMT -5
For break-in, do what you feel comfortable with, but I've followed the Mototune break-in method for several high performance cars (BMW 330, M3, Subaru STi) and bikes ('02 ZX-6R, '06 BMW K1200R), and have had great luck with that method. It's recommended for any piston-ring engine.
As for sound, I'm still waiting for my pipe from Germany, but I'll report back when I get it. Not sure if my stock comparison will do much good since the Benelli x50 comes stock with what appears to be an expansion chamber exhaust, too bad it doesn't fit properly.
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Post by Corrosion on Feb 4, 2013 21:55:58 GMT -5
I have been watching your build. Then got super busy with my job. then missed a few day, trying to log in. I still can,t get firefox to work. Next thing I know you got it running.
With your measurements all good. I thought it would not be a problem like it was with mine.
My theory is to hit, it with a 240 ball Hone, much finer. & the 5 tank breakin rule.
I seized mine 2 times, just to be sure. I pulled the jug and checked everthing. The piston had just the smallest signs of four cornering. I cleaned it up hit it with the Ball hone.
I was not jetted lean on mine. FYI
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Post by kevin55950 on Feb 4, 2013 22:30:37 GMT -5
Better hone it with a fine hone, or go to a local machine shop, they'll do a great job.
As I heard and see, they have really tight tolerances for a cast iron AC engine. Maybe letting it idle for 20-30 minutes might help, that's what I do on the engine I install now. That creates way less heat than going for a ride. A friend of mine told me this tip, he had a 80cc Athena on his vertical engine zuma.
Keeping the same jetting, he blown the first engine, but he let run the second one for half an hour idle, without riding it at all, and the engine lasted this time.
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Post by oldgeek on Feb 5, 2013 5:06:30 GMT -5
I seized mine 2 times, just to be sure. I pulled the jug and checked everthing. The piston had just the smallest signs of four cornering. I cleaned it up hit it with the Ball hone. I was not jetted lean on mine. FYI I will try not to seize it again, but no promises, LoL! Like I said in my first post, this project is for me to gain some experience, and I have already learned quite a bit so far. (so I think LoL) I appreciate the input from EVERYONE that has contributed so far, and a special thanks to the founder of this awesome site 90GTVert! |
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Post by oldgeek on Feb 6, 2013 17:11:21 GMT -5
I put in the 85 jet, and fitted the other stock airbox I have, however I noticed the intake on this airbox is smaller than on the other airbox.
FYI found using a heat gun to heat up the intake rubber that connects to the carb makes it so much easier to get the job done.
I also changed out the clutch to a stock one because I am trying to keep the RPM's low while I break this cylinder in, and I am trying to find the source of a small vibration that I think is coming from the engine, but I am not sure.
Anyway a test ride at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle seemed to be rich , and really did not smooth out until 4200 RPM's on the cheapo tach I have wrapped around the plug wire. I stopped, and pulled the plug about 2 miles into the ride and the plug was definitely rich. So I think I should move the needle clip UP one notch?
Kinda hard to tune I guess making so many changes at once, and trying to break it in a bit.
What is the best type of glue to attach an intake back to a stock airbox?
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Post by aznatama on Feb 6, 2013 21:00:59 GMT -5
I really suggest you read this regarding break-in www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htmYou should probably increase oil delivery though. Unless there is something different about 2t engines, this should apply. |
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Post by oldgeek on Feb 6, 2013 21:27:35 GMT -5
I really suggest you read this regarding break-in www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htmYou should probably increase oil delivery though. Unless there is something different about 2t engines, this should apply. That is an interesting read, I just don't know how much, if any of it applies to 2T. I am not the one to answer that. But it is an interesting concept. I definitely ran mine too hard, and it soft seized! Do they have "soft seize" in the 4T world? |
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Post by aznatama on Feb 6, 2013 22:11:41 GMT -5
From what I know of a "soft seize," it's due to overheating from running too hard for too long, running too lean (causing too much heat), or not enough/failure of oiling system (too hot from friction).
"Running it hard" under mototune method means putting load on the engine. Read the section about breaking it in on a dyno and how you need to cool down due to heat build up from insufficient cooling on a dyno. You run it hard to put pressure on the rings, but not so long that it overheats.
I think it's difficult to soft seize in a 4t since there's an extra 2 non-combustion cycles to dissipate some heat.
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Post by oldgeek on Feb 12, 2013 19:53:34 GMT -5
I picked up a new no box chrome-plated TECHNIGAS Next-R from feebay, it should be here by the end of the week. While it is not really what I was looking for, the price was right at $124.00 shipped. If it does not work out on this project, possibly it will work on a future one. link |
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Post by 90GTVert on Feb 12, 2013 20:09:31 GMT -5
Nice find.
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Post by Corrosion on Feb 13, 2013 15:11:45 GMT -5
How can you say no to CHROME.
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