Aaron420e
Scoot Enthusiast
2008 Keeway F-ACT Racing
Posts: 430
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Post by Aaron420e on Feb 14, 2013 1:49:28 GMT -5
[/quote]Is the pro replica very loud? I want this build to be on the quiet side for now.[/quote] Sorry to hear you got a Technigas. For 25$ more you could have got the Stage6 Pro Replica from www.scooter-attack.comI got a vid of my pipe (pro rep) sound for you to hear though.
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Post by oldgeek on Feb 14, 2013 4:06:07 GMT -5
Sorry to hear you got a Technigas. For 25$ more you could have got the Stage6 Pro Replica from www.scooter-attack.com Yeah, me too! Especially since the fuel pump quit on my wife's isuzu last night. I do like the sound of your S6PR.
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Post by aeroxbud on Feb 14, 2013 5:11:31 GMT -5
Sounds good
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Post by oldgeek on Feb 21, 2013 19:05:02 GMT -5
The Technigas NEXT-R I picked up from feebay came in so I put it on today. As you can see, it does not really line up very well, and it sticks out from the scoot a bit much. I had the same problem with the stock muffler. I heard the S6 street race cyl kits are the culprit, as they supposedly fit up to the S6 pipes just fine. (should have got a S6 pipe) In theory the Technigas pipe should bolt up to a standard replacement cylinder, so I may use it on another project if I don't leave it where it is now. I finally checked compression and it is 140, even after the soft seize.
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Post by 190mech on Feb 21, 2013 20:33:40 GMT -5
Slot the header flange holes so it'll swing over to the aft mount...
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Post by oldgeek on Feb 21, 2013 20:42:57 GMT -5
Slot the header flange holes so it'll swing over to the aft mount... Now why didn't I think of that? LoL Thanks!
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Post by aeroxbud on Feb 23, 2013 14:23:00 GMT -5
You can't beat the look of a nice new chrome pipe
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Post by oldgeek on Feb 24, 2013 19:15:18 GMT -5
I whipped up a mounting bracket for the pipe today, and slotted the pipe flange like 190mech said. (thanks again 190mech) I got the pipe mounted up and went for a ride.
The scooter is very inconsistent acting now. It seems to power surge until I get up to WOT, but even then the rpm's vary a bit according to my crappy Tach. On my 3.5 mile test loop I got it up to 48.5 on one run, and 49.2 on the other. RPM's are between 9000 - 9300. I pulled the plug, and it looks to be a light tan.
The pipe is recommended for 9500 RPM's, and the cyl kit is 10,000 I believe. I currently have 5.5 gram sliders in there now, will lighter sliders get the rpm up higher for me? If not, what will help it rev higher? It seems like it really wants a little more RPM's LoL!
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Post by 190mech on Feb 24, 2013 19:18:57 GMT -5
Throw in some 4.5's and see what that does..
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Post by aznatama on Feb 24, 2013 23:06:48 GMT -5
The Technigas NEXT-R I picked up from feebay came in so I put it on today. As you can see, it does not really line up very well, and it sticks out from the scoot a bit much. I had the same problem with the stock muffler. I heard the S6 street race cyl kits are the culprit, as they supposedly fit up to the S6 pipes just fine. (should have got a S6 pipe) In theory the Technigas pipe should bolt up to a standard replacement cylinder, so I may use it on another project if I don't leave it where it is now. I finally checked compression and it is 140, even after the soft seize. I hope you were dragging the rear brakes... I wouldn't run my scoot on the center stand w/ no load on the rear wheel. I 'm not sure about the mechanics, but I saw a video where they ran a scooter w/ the rear wheel off the ground and no load, and it exploded...
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Post by ottootto on Feb 25, 2013 8:45:48 GMT -5
yes ,was a video with a tunde engine with original clutch bell here it s a little bit different
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Post by oldgeek on Mar 3, 2013 13:10:59 GMT -5
Its amazing how much small changes can make a difference in a setup.
I changed out the stock air box, with another stock air box and the scooter was rich to the point it would not go over about 6000 RPM. The boxes were the same type, I guess one just flowed more air than the other.
I had 4.5 gram sliders in the variator, so I changed them out to 4 gram. I also worked on my test clutches just a bit. I now have 1 totally stock clutch, 1 clutch with a 1000 rpm contra spring and 1500 rpm clutch springs, and 1 clutch with a 1500 rpm contra spring and 2000 rpm clutch springs.
Its been too cold to even test ride much here, so I will have to wait for a little warmer weather before I can tell anything about the changes I am making.
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Post by 90GTVert on Mar 3, 2013 13:25:20 GMT -5
Some airboxes do have a little larger elbow to the carb and some have larger/smaller passages in the snorkel.
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Post by oldgeek on Mar 6, 2013 20:14:29 GMT -5
QOTD:
In my particular setup what limits the maximum RPM I can get to? Is it self limiting at some point?
While I am still trying to get this thing properly tuned up, I am finding that my RPM wants to climb ever higher. How high can I reasonably let it go without destroying it?
My last time out, it hit around 11200 WOT, and then suddenly surged to 11800. I quickly backed off because I thought it may have leaned out. So I pulled the plug after I got home and while the plug was not rich looking at all, I would not call it too lean either.
Keep in mind, I am using a krappy tach. Is there a tach I can get that is better, and not too pricy, say $50.00?
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Post by 90GTVert on Mar 6, 2013 20:43:13 GMT -5
If you had a stock crank, you'd be in dangerous territory revving that high on a regular basis. You should still have some headroom with your new aftermarket stuff though. Not sure exactly what your limit would be, but I don't think you will need to worry. Your pipe and cylinder's power should be well under what a good crank can take. It may rev higher than your pipe and cylinder will make their best power, but if it's revving and not pulling then you need to use heavier rollers or a softer contra spring.
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