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Post by 2strokd on May 6, 2010 10:37:45 GMT -5
Sweet ;D! Thats good news man, im happy fer ya  ! Like night and day huh? That scoots gonna look killer when you are done with it. You should just take the Polini theme and run with it  ! Heck your almost there now! All ya need is some Polini stickers. |
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Post by drawkward on May 6, 2010 19:59:36 GMT -5
Yeah man I think I'm going to keep the theme going. Need some Polini parts before I put any stickers on it  Anyone wanna help me figure out why I'm blowing bulbs like crazy? I was thinking a bad regulator at first, then I was thinking that since I have a new pipe and top end, that it could be since I'm over revving the electrical system, causing bulbs to blow out. They look burnt, literally. Like the bulb glass itself is burnt. I tried upping the wattage, but that didn't help. I need this fixed. I almost got pulled over on the way home just now because of it. I'm very close to just doing a mod to put LEDs in the rear and do SOMETHING for the front. Only problem is that if I use lights meant for a 12v system they would just blow as well, correct? |
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Post by Goosey on May 6, 2010 20:32:20 GMT -5
90GTVert just solved that one , his solution was different than mine. When my Stator was bad, came in a new engine, it blew the headlight, and the taillight. The brake lights and blinkers were fine. I ended up swapping out to the old stator. New one smelled like it was toasted.
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Post by 90GTVert on May 6, 2010 21:35:02 GMT -5
I had a Triton blow bulbs every time I revved high and a regulator fixed it. The issue I just had was kind of an odd one and on a 4T. I'd try a regulator first.
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Post by drawkward on May 6, 2010 22:47:58 GMT -5
I've got an extra one, but it's got a different plug. The one I need is a square plug, and I have a rectangular spare. Any idea how to wire it up safely?
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Post by 190mech on May 7, 2010 4:38:11 GMT -5
They are dirt cheap on ebay,except the pins may be in different
locations making it a crap shoot whether it'll function,You're stuck with checking all connections with an ohm meter,reverse the leads and check again,check new unit,this MAY help to determine
the correct wire setup..
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Post by 90GTVert on May 7, 2010 5:37:21 GMT -5
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Post by Goosey on May 7, 2010 8:43:10 GMT -5
You can test without blowing bulbs with a voltometer. Unplug the headlight and taillight, at the rectifier, going to the lights should be DC, if you get any AC reading it's still broke. It shouldn't go much over 13 or 14 volts, over that and it's still throwing too much voltage.
In my case the stator was throwing too much voltage, blew the rectifier, and thus the bulbs. I'd replace the rectifier first. If it goes again, then look at the stator.
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Post by drawkward on May 7, 2010 15:02:59 GMT -5
Got it tested and got it wired up. It was showing up to like 30 volts going through. Once I got the rectifier wired up correctly (which was a breeze, thanks to the tech article) the light stayed a steady brightness, which indicated that it was fixed. Before it was getting extremely bright. I just removed the wire and ends from the plastic connector and put a little electrical tape around each one then plugged them into where they needed to go. Nice and snug, and insulated. Am using a temporary fog light on the front, and got some rear bulbs from autozone. Also installed a new battery that I just got shipped to me very fast from a eBay seller. It's a tiny battery, but it gets the job done, and was extremely inexpensive. $15 shipped to the door with a charge in it. It's a sealed battery with a different type of connector, took me about 5 minutes to get it wired up correctly and safely. cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemVersion&item=180499914359&view=all&tid=502470476008I'm very happy about this battery and light situation. I feel a lot safer and it's a whole lot easier getting started. For some reason, my kick starter was skipping and it was a pain in the ass to start. I mean it starts on the first kick, but getting the kick start gear to grab the crank shaft was a bitch. Now I just blip the starter and it starts right up! |
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Post by Reign on May 7, 2010 15:03:27 GMT -5
I found out something weird about the Triton's a few months ago when it kept blowing bulbs. The Tritons are actually wired so that the lighting system runs off of 35VAC. Don't ask me why, but I ended up routing it to run off the 12V battery and swapped everything out with LED bulbs so it didn't draw so much power.
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Post by drawkward on May 7, 2010 15:18:36 GMT -5
I did notice that the headlight wires don't wire to the regulator, but I figured that was normal, and it must be spliced in somewhere else down the line. The new regulator (that I got from you, Ben, a while back) did make a huge difference in the voltage going through, I'm certain of it. It's not nearly as bright.
Did you have to buy the LED bulbs online? I don't think I could find LED bulbs for the headlight anywhere around here, since I can't even find regular bulbs anywhere around here either. I can find taillight bulbs everywhere, though. Maybe I can find a good LED taillight bulb somewhere. I know autozone carries LED taillight bulbs, just don't know if they have them for my setup.
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Post by 90GTVert on May 7, 2010 15:28:10 GMT -5
The taillight bulbs are 1157s and fairly common so you might find them locally. I'll save Ben some breath because I asked before, the LEDs he uses don't project to be used like a regular headlight. They are very bright when you look at them though, so they're just there so he can be seen... not so he can see at night.
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Post by Reign on May 8, 2010 22:26:55 GMT -5
The taillight bulbs are 1157s and fairly common so you might find them locally. I'll save Ben some breath because I asked before, the LEDs he uses don't project to be used like a regular headlight. They are very bright when you look at them though, so they're just there so he can be seen... not so he can see at night. This is true. I only installed them to be seen, not to see. It's actually an 1157 brake light that I converted to a headlight socket by breaking a blown headlight and soldering it into the base. I'm surprised at how well the LED's work at night though. Those pictures I showed you a while back Brent, were without the high beam switch on. Once you switch that on, it gets 3 to 4 times brighter, and actually illuminates the road in dark areas. |
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Post by drawkward on May 17, 2010 21:37:36 GMT -5
I wanna do a before and after video of the performance and sound of the bike. I've got my jet kit from spmoto and am just waiting for some time to install the uni filter and take out the restrictor from the cone on the pipe. Going to cut it up and pay a guy $35 to weld it back together for me. (I don't wanna make it look like shit with my crap 75amp welder). Then I just gotta jet it right, maybe put some stiffer springs in, lower the ratio to 40:1, install the CF reeds, and we'll do another sound check ;D
I'm contemplating messing with the exhaust port (a better polish), timing, blueprinting the carter and cylinder ports, and matching. I'm going to use the Mati as my guinea pig though.
I also need lighter roller weights, but I've just about flattened all the usable ones in my tuning set in the overheating Mati. Going to have to get another tuning set then a good set of sliders in the weight I like.
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Post by 90GTVert on May 17, 2010 21:48:49 GMT -5
I like the sound of these things with pipes and the stock airbox. Sounds really nice. When do we get to see a stunt show with the popcorn ?  ;D |
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! Like night and day huh? That scoots gonna look killer when you are done with it.
! Heck your almost there now! All ya need is some Polini stickers.
