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Post by muskin on Sept 6, 2014 20:00:47 GMT -5
Thanks 90gt. I guess I will have to check everything. What speeds should I expect with a 72 kit?
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Post by sirironduke on Sept 6, 2014 22:49:50 GMT -5
When i test drove my scooter, all stock exept for the 72 kit, i pegged the speedometer out. Gps told me my max speed was 53mph. And that was on flat ground. Ive changed my variator weights, a jet ,and removed some restrictions and i cap out at 43 on flat ground. But i can climb hills at a higher speed.
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Post by jhobe6678 on Sept 23, 2014 15:01:16 GMT -5
ack, reading this gives me the creeps for a 4t. But I'm stuck and have little choice.
However, the one I'm looking to get (GMW/WOLF M2) looks nice and I would look into putting a BBK on it soon. Would that be worth it? I like the look and honestly, it's the same design as the Tao Tao Thunder and all. Maybe not the exact same body, but it still looks cool.
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Post by 90GTVert on Sept 23, 2014 15:10:59 GMT -5
Big bore kits give nice power increases. Stick with 47mm bores. Above that crank (bearing) failures are much more common.
Even though I talk crap about 4Ts, I do like the little sucker. It's quiet and gets 80MPG+. The engine itself hasn't given me trouble other than seals on the CVT side. I've learned to ignore them when the leak is very minor. If yours has a seal leak, get the Lisle puller I showed in a vid and it'll make life easier when you do have to replace them. Maybe you'll get lucky and have no issues, but I'm definitely not the only one complaining about seals on these. My variator failures I think were largely due to the bent drive shaft tip that was making bad vibes. I did replace my variator's bushing with an oilite piece and it's holding up well, but I'm not sure if that was even necessary.
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Post by jhobe6678 on Sept 23, 2014 17:38:42 GMT -5
Big bore kits give nice power increases. Stick with 47mm bores. Above that crank (bearing) failures are much more common. Even though I talk crap about 4Ts, I do like the little sucker. It's quiet and gets 80MPG+. The engine itself hasn't given me trouble other than seals on the CVT side. I've learned to ignore them when the leak is very minor. If yours has a seal leak, get the Lisle puller I showed in a vid and it'll make life easier when you do have to replace them. Maybe you'll get lucky and have no issues, but I'm definitely not the only one complaining about seals on these. My variator failures I think were largely due to the bent drive shaft tip that was making bad vibes. I did replace my variator's bushing with an oilite piece and it's holding up well, but I'm not sure if that was even necessary. Well I know that I'd not dive into it unless I either knew what I was doing for sure by then or I had someone that knew was doing it with or for me. For now she just needs reliable for the time being. Something I'm not going to have to reach in and fix something on every day.
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Post by glavey on Sept 23, 2014 23:05:57 GMT -5
Hey man! I'm not trying to hijack your thread at all, but I have a similar thread on Scooter Doc with the exact same scooter. Once I saw that your seat cracked it made me want to share with you how I built a riveted metal frame for the seat on my scoot. I didn't make the frame because my bucket was broken (although it was starting to crack around the mounting bolts, and I only weigh 215 lbs); it was in the way of an oil cooler project I was working on. Here is a link to the thread. The seat frame starts on page 5. Again, not trying to steal your thread, just sharing knowledge.
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Post by 90GTVert on Sept 23, 2014 23:45:39 GMT -5
Welcome glavey! I wouldn't know what to do without my storage space, but it's interesting.
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Post by glavey on Sept 24, 2014 9:50:56 GMT -5
Yeah, I do miss the storage space. Perhaps I'll put some fishnet between the supports and create a sort of hammock.
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Post by 90GTVert on Oct 18, 2014 20:08:06 GMT -5
I've been cleaning the CVT and doing some maintenance, including a new belt. I think I must have put the torque driver back together in the wrong set of grooves at one point or something, because RPM at speed improved a lot with the belt swap, but it still really felt like it ran out of gear by 35MPH. After getting the CVT back together with the torque driver cleaned and regreased among other things, the RPM spread got much better and I noticed that I could see higher cruise speeds and wasn't dropping so far out of the power with wind or inclines. I had to drop roller weight by so far 0.75g and I'm still not sure it's quite where I want it. I got up to 43MPH earlier today at about 9000RPM. With the old belt and whatever else was up and heavier weights, that would be about 10,000RPM. I had planned to ride tonight thinking the wind would calm down so I could better tell where it's cruising and such, but instead the wind picked up from ~10MPH to ~15MPH. I know those don't sound like strong winds, but they really do have a big effect on the little TaoTao. I still wanted to ride. 43MPH is about as fast as I've ever been on this scoot. More wind now. Hmmm. I went out just to see if I could find a spot with the wind at my back and maybe a decline (not really many hills that amount to a lot out there) and tuck down as low as my big self can get. Cheatin' like crazy basically, just to see if it would go any faster. Pointless, but fun.
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Post by jhobe6678 on Oct 18, 2014 23:04:42 GMT -5
Hey man! I'm not trying to hijack your thread at all, but I have a similar thread on Scooter Doc with the exact same scooter. Once I saw that your seat cracked it made me want to share with you how I built a riveted metal frame for the seat on my scoot. I didn't make the frame because my bucket was broken (although it was starting to crack around the mounting bolts, and I only weigh 215 lbs); it was in the way of an oil cooler project I was working on. Here is a link to the thread. The seat frame starts on page 5. Again, not trying to steal your thread, just sharing knowledge. I've been thinking about this myself, reinforcing the seat on my 4t. My Baccio has metal frame under the front and back of the seat so I don't have to worry about that. But the 4t is a small frame with that plastic bucket. Now you have me thinking to use some tubing or angle iron to add to the bucket. I too don't want to lose space and I'm planning on taking the panels off of it so while I have it naked, it could be a good time to tinker with that. Great thread you've got going there!
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Post by glavey on Oct 19, 2014 12:44:09 GMT -5
Thanks, man! I, too, started off thinking of just reinforcing the bucket, but once I started making mockups with cardboard, that idea soon vanished from my head. I don't doubt it's possible, but for my purposes (I would have had to cut a few hole in the bucket for the oil lines anyway) it wasn't practical. Plus I don't really like the look bucket, I think the metal frame looks much better.
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Post by 90GTVert on Oct 19, 2014 18:09:06 GMT -5
I guess it's that time again. Rode earlier today at 54 degrees around 60% humidity and the wideband was reading 12-13:1 WOT. It would drop to 16:1 at times when a wind gust hit, but otherwise doing pretty well. Just took some stickers into town at 51 degrees with 40% humidity and it's running 13-14:1 WOT. I'd upjet, but by the weekend it's supposed to be near 70 again and then it will run rich. I was hoping to get the CVT dialed in without changing anything else. I think there are 2-3 days of rain coming before temps climb a little, so that might work out that next time I wanna ride it'll be warm enough.
I was out earlier trying to see if I could get a speed run on video or maybe even do better with my cheater run. No such luck. 44.3MPH. Oh well, I'm still happy to have it back to being capable of 40 in favorable conditions.
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Post by 90GTVert on Dec 11, 2014 14:47:11 GMT -5
Sometime in the spring or summer the wires on my right hand grip heater broke again. I ended up taking the grip heater off and setting it aside, figuring I'd solder it back once it was cold again vs fixing it and abusing it during the summer when it's not even needed. Decided to fix it today because my last ride was only about an hour around freezing temp and my fingers were throbbing from it. Got it apart and went to grab the grip heater and couldn't find it. Looked for a while with no luck. Where I think I had was on the bench near where the trash can sits so I'm hoping over all of this time I didn't knock it into the trash can and take it to the dump.
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Post by 90GTVert on Dec 14, 2014 19:50:23 GMT -5
I finally found the lost grip heater. After searching a couple of times I realized that the heater had an adhesive backing on it. I picked up the box on the work bench where I thought it was and the heater was stuck to the bottom of it. I had moved that thing so many times and never looked at the bottom of the box. I reinstalled the grip heater on the throttle side and soldered the connections back on. This time I wrapped electrical tape tight around the grip after soldering. Then I wrapped the wires together with electrical tape and wrapped them around the grip. I hot glued the wires to the grip, then wrapped that with electrical tape. Pic below is before the last tape. Not pretty, but once taped and the grip is installed you really don't notice much. All of the plastics on this thing are getting worse and worse. I'm getting closer to giving up and turning it into a naked scooter. I went for about an hour and a half long ride, checking out some Christmas lights, at 40F. Ran the grip heaters on around 1/2 power I think. Came home without my fingers hurting for a change.
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Post by Elektrey on Dec 14, 2014 20:13:33 GMT -5
I know whatcha mean about the plastics. Slowly over time the tabs will become all stripped off and the holes will all become stripped.
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