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Post by 90GTVert on Jun 13, 2017 18:41:12 GMT -5
Not sure if this was asked, but do these wheels need balanced after installing the 90° valve stems? They often need a balance if you don't change anything from the factory and expect a smooth ride. |
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Post by jhill15 on Jun 13, 2017 18:47:10 GMT -5
Not sure if this was asked, but do these wheels need balanced after installing the 90° valve stems? They often need a balance if you don't change anything from the factory and expect a smooth ride. Is it best to go ahead and swap the valve stems out with the 90°s before you ride it for the first time? Or is it ok to ride it for a while? |
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Post by AtariGuy on Jun 13, 2017 20:58:05 GMT -5
With a new scooter, as long as they check out good, you can ride fine with the stock ones. A lot of times it comes down to preference and reliability. The 90 degree metal ones will last longer
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Post by jhill15 on Jun 13, 2017 21:02:51 GMT -5
With a new scooter, as long as they check out good, you can ride fine with the stock ones. A lot of times it comes down to preference and reliability. The 90 degree metal ones will last longer I will give them a good check! Thanks man! |
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Post by greggkinney on Jul 3, 2017 1:02:23 GMT -5
was this a shirtcase motor with 10" wheels? i remember reading somewhere where you put bigger tires on a 50 to upgear it. did youget a bigger tire or did you get a 12" rim to fit ashortcase? i know a 10" wont fit a long case because if the breaks. just wondered it same was true on getting a 12" rim on a shortcase. thanks
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Post by twitchytoes on Dec 26, 2017 23:30:42 GMT -5
Well I read through most of the thread and I see around 3 issues I'm having with my very similar scooter now. Mine is a peace-parts one, the engine shows 2012, title says 2013. I notice a bit of bouncing that I believe is related to the front tire. The scooter had sat for a while before I bought it, so I think a flat spot. If I drive up on a sign of any sort, I can turn on my brights and watch the light bounce up and down. On top of that, I replaced the carb with a keihin (my old carb would run super rich regardless of jetting, I think the choke or the accel pump was out) and it comes with an 85 jet. In the 60s-70s, it seems okay with airbox restrictions removed but now that it's been in the 20s-40s, it acts a bit funny but I honestly am not sure if it's lean or rich and maybe I wasn't noticing it in the higher temps. I really wanna get an AFR on here but can't stomach $100ish for one. Modifications done are as follows: Airbox restrictions removed (outside of low temps, I run both restrictions in), mix of 4g and 5g slider weights for 4.5g, 1000 contra, 1000 clutch spring(both from glixal), a genuine appearing keihin 18mm(19mm?) carb, and have done 2(or 3, can't remember) engine oil changes and swapped to synthetic on 1000 units( do these read in km or mi?) on the odometer, as well as opening up the end of the exhaust. I examined the header and didn't see a washer but I plan to do a double check on that sometime. I pulled the exhaust off and cut the short/small tube that enters the muffler and welded pipe on that covers all 3 holes of the muffler. I changed gear oil around 800 units to synthetic and I overfilled it the first time, encountered a leak in the driveshaft seal, which I will be soonish changing. I have since emptied and filled it with the appropriate amount. I keep tire pressure close to 35 psi, usually around 33-34, and I run 91 octane fuel that I believe has 10% ethanol, no way I can confirm without testing it because the stickers aren't done right at this gas station. I have changed the fuel filter around the time I changed the carb so I could visibly see what's going in there due to my belief my filter was clogged at one point. After that point, I swapped in a new gates powerlink belt of same size as stock, 669 belt. As of now, my only issues seem to be the bouncing, the off-tune carb and potentially an issue in the CVT tune? I'm running around 8400 rpm but can barely hit 32mph most of the time.
Edit: I see that my wall of text is pretty hard to read, my apologies. If anyone knows a way I could format it better, I'm open to suggestions lol.
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Post by 90GTVert on Dec 27, 2017 7:21:31 GMT -5
The suspension on these things is never great, so if roads are not smooth you'll get some bouncing around just from that. You can raise the front of the scoot and check tire runout with a dial indicator. Basically, get the front of the scoot up enough that the wheel will spin freely. Set a dial indicator against the tire with some type of secure holder. Make sure you aren't measuring the tread in the tire, but one solid section if possible. Rotate the tire and watch the indicator so it will tell you where high and low spots are. You can do a similar process to the wheel as well.
The air gets more dense when it's cold and the mixture starts leaning out, so you need to upjet in cold weather. I'd advise buying a jet kit so you can tune as needed.
The CVT tune takes some time with trial and error. You can try heavier weights to see if that will increase the speed.
Regarding your edit about formatting; making new paragraphs for each issue helps quite a bit.
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Post by twitchytoes on Dec 27, 2017 12:53:32 GMT -5
I've got a jet kit but they're generic chinese ones, as well as a screw in the bowl being stripped out, so I haven't messed with it yet. The CVT seems to like 4.5-5g better because I tried 6g rollers and it dropped down to around 33mph from 35 at the time.
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Post by 90GTVert on Dec 27, 2017 12:59:28 GMT -5
Generic jets are probably fine, as long as you have them in a kit. I have got into a bit of trouble (melted pistons on 2Ts) assuming that mixed and matched generic jets would be equivalent sizes.
Is it the threads in the bowl or the screw itself that's stripped or is it just the head is damaged so a screwdriver doesn't get it out?
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Post by twitchytoes on Dec 27, 2017 15:38:15 GMT -5
The head of the screw for the bowl stripped out when I tried to verify jet sizes, I'm going by what other buyers of this carb have said was in it. I believe I've been running slightly lean pretty much from the get go, even in the 70s weather but I have offset it a bit with the needle and the airbox as of right now. Too much snow to ride and I need to get that seal fixed.
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Post by 90GTVert on Dec 27, 2017 16:58:30 GMT -5
Small vise grips or cutting a slot for a flathead in the head may get that screw out. Can be taken out with extractors if all else fails.
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Post by twitchytoes on Dec 28, 2017 12:49:20 GMT -5
Yeah, my plan was to use extractors and use a screw from my old carb. I'm really thinking about getting a power jet but trying to grasp how it installs and how I can keep my drain valve if I use one.
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Post by pinkscoot on Dec 28, 2017 13:02:48 GMT -5
Something I learned the other day was that most carb screws are JIS screws and should be pulled with a JIS screw driver. No wonder we all strip out the screws on our carbs. Here is a link to an article on Webbikeworld. I'll create a new thread to this article just to start a conversation. |
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Post by twitchytoes on Dec 28, 2017 14:15:53 GMT -5
Interesting. What is the thread pitch and size of these bolts so I can replace them? I don't have the cash to buy the JIS sets atm, and I doubt my Craftsman set I got for Christmas has them.
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Post by 90GTVert on Dec 28, 2017 16:25:01 GMT -5
M4x0.7x14
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