stoop
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 119
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Post by stoop on May 20, 2010 10:52:06 GMT -5
Ok. This morning I messed around witht the fuel and vaccumm lines.
It now idles. Plus.
I tried to move the needle positioning, but it has no groves. It looks like a fixxed needle. Is that a good thing or a bad thing? And also I have a 79 main jet. Should I upjet?
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Post by 2strokd on May 20, 2010 13:32:29 GMT -5
Nah, stick with the 79 for now.
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stoop
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 119
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Post by stoop on May 20, 2010 13:35:24 GMT -5
ok, im getting kind of tired of messing around with the roketa... my next move is to try and swap out the engine from the roketa to apollo.... i want to first take off the apolo engine to see if its too much of a task for me to swap out the engines completely.... can someone let me know if there is a link to tearing off an engine, or someone post some pics on how to take an engine off/put an engine back on.... thanks  |
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Post by 90GTVert on May 20, 2010 23:02:24 GMT -5
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stoop
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 119
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Post by stoop on May 22, 2010 8:50:26 GMT -5
Thank you. I'm goingto atempt to pull them
both off today. Startig withthe apollo to see if I get it
as far as that, the roketa is then broke. 2stroked. Gimmie a pm with a price on that engine could ya?
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stoop
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 119
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Post by stoop on May 22, 2010 22:19:58 GMT -5
Ok. Good news first.
I swaped out the engine fine.
Got it mounted and the shock on air filter back on everything Is plugged in (I just hope in the right spots)
Bad news
won't spark. Have a performance cdi and ignition coil, so I know it's neither of them, everything else I'm prett sure is hooked up correctly. I do have a picture to post as one piece was not quite the same on the ebgines.
I'll post that pic sometime tomorrow morning.
I'll briefly try to describe it.
The cylindar object behind the airbox on the apolo had two cords ( red and black) going to a wire harness. Roketa engine had a red wire going strait to the round thing on the upper part of the frame ( right above the ignition coil)
I don't really know what I did worng.
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Post by Fox on May 23, 2010 9:23:34 GMT -5
The cylindrical object is the starter motor. It's grounded by it's body and the connector sticking out is for a positive coming from the starter relay.  The thing above the ignition coil is the starter relay. The positive (Red) wire from the battery attaches to one relay terminal and another wire (sometimes red, sometimes black) runs from the other terminal to the starter motor. When you press the start button, the relay closes inside and current flows directly from the battery to the starter. The reason for the relay is because the start button can't handle the amps. It would melt. Touching something metal across both terminals on the relay will create a bypass and turn the starter motor, even with the key in the off position. There is no direction of flow on the relay so it doesn't make a difference which way you connect the wires.   |
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Post by drawkward on May 23, 2010 9:29:28 GMT -5
The starter motor and relay shouldn't keep him from getting spark though, right?
I'm thinking bad/wrong stator to CDI connections.
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Post by Fox on May 23, 2010 9:38:09 GMT -5
Yeah well you are right. The relay has zero to do with the spark plug but if you break down his post to the facts and look at the wording, I think maybe he's using the word "Spark" to describe the engine turning over when he pushes the start button. Maybe...  Have to realize he's not as experienced as we are so his terminology may be off. won't spark. I do have a picture to post as one piece was not quite the same on the engines. I'll post that pic sometime tomorrow morning. I'll briefly try to describe it. The cylinder object behind the airbox on the apollo had two cords ( red and black) going to a wire harness. Roketa engine had a red wire going strait to the round thing on the upper part of the frame ( right above the ignition coil) I don't really know what I did wrong. |
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stoop
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 119
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Post by stoop on May 23, 2010 9:43:28 GMT -5
Right you are. I checked my cdi ths morning. Two wires were almost out of there connection. Put them in all the way and bam! Runs. Still not getting power to turn signals or horn or ele start, but I'm letting it run for a bit to see if it will reharge some of the battery a little.
What wires aresuposed to be connected to the battery? I have a ground wire from battery strait to valve cover, and then a fuse on the positive and the starter repay. That's it.
My old starter motor had the red one going to a wire harness and a black one going to that same wire harness, and fom that wire harness, or wire went to the negative battery terminal, one side went to starter relay.
On the new one, the starter motor only had one wire going strait to the relay, so I took out the old wires (to battery and relay, and put the only wire from the starter motor to the relay and the other to the positive batery.
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Post by Fox on May 23, 2010 9:46:44 GMT -5
You did it right.
The black wire goes to the engine. There should be a wire from the engine to the frame as well. The wire with the fuse goes to + and the big red wire goes from + to the relay. The other wire on the relay goes to the starter.
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stoop
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 119
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Post by stoop on May 23, 2010 9:53:38 GMT -5
Which wires then are my electrical? Cause like I said, nothing ele is working right now. Kick starts just fine.
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Post by Fox on May 23, 2010 9:57:24 GMT -5
Is the fuse good?
Try touching a wrench between the starter relay terminals to see if it starts up.
You do know that you have to squeeze either of the brake levers when you press the start button for it to turn over right?
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stoop
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 119
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Post by stoop on May 23, 2010 10:30:57 GMT -5
Im aware yes. No a screwdriver over the relay did not start it. I just went for a 10 mile cruise and all other electrical is working. Just no ele start. The wire harness is plugged in, one wire going to + other going to starter itself.
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Post by Fox on May 23, 2010 11:56:01 GMT -5
If the starter doesn't turn with a screwdriver bypass then the starter is bad, the battery is dead/weak or your wires aren't connected right. There MUST be a ground connected to the frame. No frame ground, no elec. start. A lot of times the black from the battery is bolted to the frame and from there another wire runs to the engine.
You said it has an engine ground so the bypass should work so I'm not sure what's wrong other than a dead battery.
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Have to realize he's not as experienced as we are so his terminology may be off.