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Post by nelson on Jun 16, 2014 12:49:39 GMT -5
I have 2 of them I might just build one to be race only. It pretty much is now anyway. I just dont have lights but I refuse to chop it up. I would be willing to stretch it ect. Thanks for all the info above. I am running stock cvt set up, all stock except springs, rollers ect. I dont know how much more I could gain without a new pipe or making a custom pipe.
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Post by nelson on Jun 16, 2014 12:52:14 GMT -5
I really just need more time. I do think there is a lot more to be gained from cylinder. I dont have a head gasket at this time or a base spacer/gasket. Chopping the skirt, I can just cut it down to the base?
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Post by 2strokd on Jun 16, 2014 14:26:38 GMT -5
No, dont cut it all the way to the base or the piston wont have any support at BDC and will rock.
Just leave it as is and have some fun! Unless you are not running a base gasket at all? If not, add one. thats more duration right there.
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Post by nelson on Jun 16, 2014 15:24:59 GMT -5
I am not running any gaskets! I have broken skirts before, have learned some expensive lessons! If I use a 1mm spacer I will drop to about 140-150 psi. Is the duration I pick up worth it? I would be better off it I can get in there and raise them. But a spacer would be fastest. I need to find out why I am only going 53 mph @ 10k rpm
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Post by nelson on Jun 16, 2014 15:27:18 GMT -5
I think I will run with what I have and see about getting new variator. Then I think we will head out to the 1/8th. Haven't been there in awhile!
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Post by 90GTVert on Jun 16, 2014 15:37:29 GMT -5
I would investigate the CVT before changing the cylinder. It's obviously making good power as-is and you're seeing 10,000RPM, but you don't know what the CVT is doing yet. Mark the variator and maybe the rear pulley and see what's going on in there. Could be something that resurfacing the fan or shaving a boss or belt replacement or elongating TD grooves could help or even as simple as a slightly heavier weight may make a difference.
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Post by 2strokd on Jun 17, 2014 9:51:03 GMT -5
I agree with Brent for now.. But if you do want to get more out of it yes, add the base gasket, or your spacer and shave some more meat off the heads sealing surface. Looks like you have room yet. I think if you tried adding the spacer and left the head alone it would loose some low end punch, possibly some mid range but gain peak power do to the increase in duration. Since you are checking durations and such (great idea!) did you happen to notice where the piston is at BDC in correspondence with the exhaust port? Is it totally opening the port or just half, 3/4?? Just curious.. All in all, if it runs good and your happy with the engines performance leave it be and tune away at the CVT
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Post by nelson on Jun 17, 2014 17:00:16 GMT -5
I am pretty sure the exhaust port was uncovered at bdc. Like I said dont have time and want to do it right so it limits what I can get done I think its good for the moment other than cvt, what would u guys recommend? A good vari?
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Post by nelson on Jun 17, 2014 17:04:55 GMT -5
m.youtube.com/watch?v=yNZcjlS7eQgSounds of the jog. Not a good vid but u can hear it run if interested. Thanks for all the help guys, without y'all I wouldn't have anything to spend extra money on! Hahah, really thanks everyone
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Post by nelson on Jun 17, 2014 17:29:03 GMT -5
have you guys ever had problems with the head studs pulling out of the block just seems like that might be an issue I haven't had any problems yet but I think it would be a good idea to place Helicoil in there a head of time, if I had an engine apart I would definitely put helicoils in
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Post by 2TDave on Jun 17, 2014 18:09:35 GMT -5
I had a loose one. Used lock tight when I put it back together.
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Post by 90GTVert on Jun 17, 2014 18:24:19 GMT -5
I'm not sure if you're regulating the throttle at all in there, but if not it sounds like the RPM you end up at and where you are accelerating are way different. CVT runs out of ratios and all that's left if you wanna speed up is for RPM to increase. First thing I'd do is put a mark across the variator and run it up to speed so you know for sure. Next if it's got a stock fixed half and you're comfortable with it you may try modding it so it's a steady ramp instead of having the center recessed as most are stock. You of course risk ruining it, but it's an idea that has worked well for myself and others and if it works out it's free. I'd check the torque driver as well and see if the grooves extend to the edge so it can get full travel. Mod if not. That stuff could give decent gains without necessarily having to spend anything. The quicker and easier option would be to buy a new variator, but even then I suggest the other two mods for max speed.
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Post by nelson on Jun 17, 2014 22:02:04 GMT -5
Yes, I am all the way at the top of acceleration. No rpm left and no cvt left.I assume it will be capable of 65 with some cvt mods. I have 2 spare varis I can modify. First I need to marker test and fix the rear brake bracket. I have seen ur how tos on variator and td. You say last 2 and new vari? I have a hoca td I boughtawhile back for my 4t but it was for a different engine. Hopefully for a minarelli!
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Post by 90GTVert on Jun 17, 2014 22:54:14 GMT -5
New vari, extended grooves, and a fan/fixed half mod is usually a good setup. Only bad thing with making the vari close more is the ramp plate and variator may separate too much and then it will break the plastic guides repeatedly.
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Post by nelson on Jun 18, 2014 8:13:03 GMT -5
Another thing I think needs attention is getting it in the power band soner. It l iike launches good and pulls good with no dead spots but I think I am making more power at about 7500 rpm. Takes off about 5k think I need some new clutch springs as mine are original polaris and I know they are worn out after 15yrs of being ridden.
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