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Post by oldgeek on Jan 24, 2015 16:44:34 GMT -5
Sounds Great, OG. Does the Lft, TS. Stop flashing, when you Rev it. No Battery? You noticed that did you? Yeah, this thing has some electrical issues I will have to work out. I do have a battery installed, but about the only thing that works is that left rear TS, and a couple running lights up front.  The socket and plug for the headlight is missing, along with the sockets and harness for the rear lights, and the ignition switch. I have not been able to figure out how to jumper the ignition harness, so I have to jump the solenoid out with a screwdriver to start it. It also needs a gas cap, a body panel for the right side, and a caliper for the front. I got to ride it a while today and it is a blast. I got it up to 58 Mph without doing anything to the CVT or the carb for that matter. The MJ seems to be pretty good, but around 1/4 to 3/4 throttle needs some work. I dont have a tach but I think rpms are around 8K. It feels like it has more to give.   |
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Post by Corrosion on Jan 24, 2015 17:01:37 GMT -5
I like the little spoiler on the rear. Sounds like its time to find a wire drawing.
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Post by oldgeek on Jan 26, 2015 22:24:53 GMT -5
I have cleaned up a couple issues so far, but the electrical is kicking my arse. It is not charging the battery, and I haven't been able to figure out the rectifier wiring yet. No matter what I do it blows the fuse, or simply does not charge. I have tried 3 different rectifiers, and I cant seem to identify the pins correctly with my meter. Shouldn't I be able to use most any 4 pin rectifier if I get the connections in the right place?
My diode checker only gives a reading connected 1 way on all 3 rectifiers that I have.
I checked the stator voltage, and I get around 45v each from the 2 coils when I rev it up a bit. So I think that checks good.
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Post by 190mech on Jan 27, 2015 6:48:11 GMT -5
I found that rectifiers are wired different between brands as well as wire colors too.I think there is a bit on it in the tech section...
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Post by 90GTVert on Jan 27, 2015 8:13:14 GMT -5
Getting that voltage from the stator you should have power there to charge. Have you made sure that the wiring from stator to rectifier plug is good?
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Post by oldgeek on Jan 27, 2015 9:39:00 GMT -5
I found that rectifiers are wired different between brands as well as wire colors too.I think there is a bit on it in the tech section... Yes, I have been reading it, and I also have the wiring diagram for the ZIP, I just haven't found the winning combination yet. I am not even sure the rectifiers I am trying are good! Getting that voltage from the stator you should have power there to charge. Have you made sure that the wiring from stator to rectifier plug is good? I did check that. I am puzzled by the readings I get when I check the rectifiers have with my meter, time to get some "new" rectifiers to work with. |
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Post by Corrosion on Jan 27, 2015 10:11:05 GMT -5
You are trying to check them as a diode. But that will not work, for it is also a regulator. There is a procedure to check them. But the readings are a litte weird for there is an IC. Looking at the voltage. It then shunts the excess to ground through the body of the Regulator. So it won't read like a straight up diode. Try just doing continuity testing in both directions.
The fuse blowing would make me think the problem is on the DC side. Does it have an electric choke?
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Post by oldgeek on Jan 27, 2015 13:16:23 GMT -5
You are trying to check them as a diode. But that will not work, for it is also a regulator. There is a procedure to check them. But the readings are a litte weird for there is an IC. Looking at the voltage. It then shunts the excess to ground through the body of the Regulator. So it won't read like a straight up diode. Try just doing continuity testing in both directions. The fuse blowing would make me think the problem is on the DC side. Does it have an electric choke? I did not realize there was a regulator built into it. Makes sense now though! Problem solved! I am embarrassed to say what one of the issues was. For some reason, I thought a 5 amp fuse was what you use in a scooter! I use a 5 amp fuse constantly when working on HVAC, and my lame brain just carried that over to scooters for some reason. I put a 15 amp in, and wired the rectifier/regulator like a picture I found of a zip setup and it works now! I am constantly amazed with what I get done, with so little brain power available! Now that I have all of that stuff worked out, I can start tuning the carb and the CVT. |
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Post by Corrosion on Jan 27, 2015 14:20:29 GMT -5
15-A sounds way big. What does it call for. I checked my manual, the 2008 Zuma takes a 7-A. Hook up a meter on Amps. Or work your way down till it is known what will work saftley. I'm pretty sure 15-A, is over the wire rating.
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Post by Sitticuss on Jan 27, 2015 14:50:10 GMT -5
Mine have always come with a 15A
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Post by Corrosion on Jan 27, 2015 15:10:26 GMT -5
Can't find a wire size on any of my wire diagrams. What gauge is the wire? What size fuse, was in there orignally. I checked the 2 Derbi's I have. There both 9-A They have a few more accessories than the Zuma, and a cig lighter. As long as the wire size will take it it. It okay and dosen't matter. After all his hard work, don't want to see it go up in smoke. www.49ccscoot.com/manuals/Vento_Zip_Service_Manual.pdf page 5, 10-A fuse |
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Post by oldgeek on Jan 27, 2015 17:07:47 GMT -5
There was no fuse in this basket case when I got it!
But you are right, I will stick a 10 amp in there to err on the side of safety.
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Post by Corrosion on Jan 27, 2015 17:15:25 GMT -5
Ya got remember. I'm used to working on 480v. 15A will light a building. I gota readjust my thinkin cap!
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Post by Sitticuss on Jan 27, 2015 17:36:16 GMT -5
it's also the type of fuse...right?
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Post by oldgeek on Jan 27, 2015 17:43:42 GMT -5
Uh...? I wired a blade style fuse holder in place of the junk glass style.
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