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Post by oldgeek on Mar 4, 2015 21:07:27 GMT -5
I am not sure what is going on with this build, as I seem to be going steadily backwards performance wise.
The MHR pipe does not seem to make much difference at all. It seems willing to rev a little quicker, but not any higher. I don't know what I expected, but I thought it would be at least a little better than the RS pipe. Like I mentioned, performance seems to be falling off steadily no matter what I do, and I have tested so many setups lately, I am slightly burned out. We are expecting rain tomorrow, so maybe I will get motivated to work on this scoot for a while.
I think I will put the RS pipe back on, it runs cooler than the MHR, and I can put the center stand back on. It is a pita to work on this scooter without a center stand. Also I will likely be going back to the BWS 100 CVT parts, I like the strong acceleration I was getting when using them, and I have a few more things to try out with them.
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Post by nelson on Mar 4, 2015 23:20:03 GMT -5
I did A short run on my scoot and didnt have space to hit top speed I did note that my max rpm was 10500 rpm On the 54mm cylinder with 48 grams total weight. With the 52mm I was seeing the same revs but was using the hoca pulley and 36 total grams on rollers. Right now even on wet roads it will pull the front wheel up.I didnt know what to expect either but for the money I spent on building a 90 I could have afforded only a race cylinder. No other parts. So for a daily rider I think the torque and dependability is unparalleled. It would be nice to have a max cruising speed of 65.I think I can get there with a cvt swap back to hoca.
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Post by 2TDave on Mar 5, 2015 6:29:38 GMT -5
OG if you haven't already you may want to confirm you haven't developed a head or exhaust leak. Just a thought I had from dealing with similar tuning issues on my 70 setup.
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Post by oldgeek on Mar 5, 2015 19:27:20 GMT -5
I put the RS pipe and the center stand back on today, along with the BWS 100 CVT parts. This time I tried a short 1200 rpm spring on a BB base, the stock looking groove in the rear pulley, and 3x9 gram and 3x5.5 rollers for a total weight of 43.30g. The weather was nice but windy today, so the test ride was much longer than usual. GPS showed top speed of 59.22 mph for one run, and 54.8 mph for another run. Acceleration is pretty good, definitely better than with the Hoca variator. I also re-tuned the carb a bit, moved the clip on the needle back to the lowest notch.
I mentioned previously that there seemed to be some play developing in the crank on the axis. I think it is worse after riding today, so I will be changing the bearings soon to hopefully prevent damage to the 43.5 Hoca crank, which is apparently no longer available. I don't remember which bearings I used on this build, but they did not last very long. I hate to have to do it, but its better than trashing the crank. I stopped working on the 70cc streetrace to get this 99cc project running, I will get back to work on the 70cc streetrace until I feel like replacing the bearings in the 99cc. I moved the RS pipe I had on the 70cc to the 99cc, so I have to find a pipe that will work for on the 70cc now. I may try to use the MHR pipe on the 70cc even though it sticks out from the side a mile. I also have a Malossi OR kit I would like to install on the 70cc, but I need to buy a few parts to make it fit the large spline crank, as the kit was supposedly for a Zuma.
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Post by Corrosion on Mar 5, 2015 20:54:25 GMT -5
I wonder if it is the crank walking in the bearings.
There is also wicking thread locker, clean the shaft bearing with some brake kleen, and air it off, then let some thread locker wick onto the shaft / bearing.
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Post by oldgeek on Mar 5, 2015 21:39:15 GMT -5
I wonder if it is the crank walking in the bearings. There is also wicking thread locker, clean the shaft bearing with some brake kleen, and air it off, then let some thread locker wick onto the shaft / bearing. I can push it side to side, I guess that is to be expected with a slip fit. Not really worried about that. But I can wiggle it front to back ever so slightly with no belt on it, there is some slop in the bearings. I also noticed a slight vibration developing. I used some no name bearings from feebay, I guess I should have used better bearings. I think I am going to order some NOS German made FAG bearings I saw on feebay. Or any ideas? |
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Post by nelson on Mar 5, 2015 23:29:30 GMT -5
I wonder if it is the crank walking in the bearings. There is also wicking thread locker, clean the shaft bearing with some brake kleen, and air it off, then let some thread locker wick onto the shaft / bearing. I can push it side to side, I guess that is to be expected with a slip fit. Not really worried about that. But I can wiggle it front to back ever so slightly with no belt on it, there is some slop in the bearings. I also noticed a slight vibration developing. I used some no name bearings from feebay, I guess I should have used better bearings. I think I am going to order some NOS German made FAG bearings I saw on feebay. Or any ideas? I have had good luck looking bearings up by size on scamazon (amazon)I me you said, Fat, NTN, Or koyo. I have had good results from Japanese and german |
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Post by 190mech on Mar 6, 2015 5:01:06 GMT -5
Ive had good luck with VXB bearing; www.vxb.com/ballbearings.htmlA little play isnt going to hurt power, most race engines have some built in slop to reduce friction.. |
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Post by Corrosion on Mar 6, 2015 7:42:44 GMT -5
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Post by 2TDave on Mar 6, 2015 7:47:51 GMT -5
I haven't had any issues with the Nachis from VXB.
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Post by oldgeek on Mar 6, 2015 8:04:15 GMT -5
Ive had good luck with VXB bearing; www.vxb.com/ballbearings.htmlA little play isnt going to hurt power, most race engines have some built in slop to reduce friction.. How much slop is too much? I can see the lip on the seal move slightly. I will just keep a close eye on it to see if it gets worse quickly. Sent from my SGH-T999 using proboards |
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Post by 190mech on Mar 6, 2015 10:22:11 GMT -5
I never measured it,,guess if you can hear and feel slop that might be a bit of worry.When it gets hot I think it all expands to a tighter fit..C3 is a tighter clearance bearing than a C4..
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Post by oldgeek on Mar 28, 2015 23:48:44 GMT -5
I finally got good news from RP. The order I have been waiting on for over 1 month should ship to me next week. The order has the rear shock stuff I need so bad for this build. The current shock is weak and too short, so when I ride this scoot I have to sit as far to the front as I can or the tire scrubs the gas tank center seam. There is a line cut dead center of the tire from the tank seam. I would hate to loose the rear tire at any speed. Sitting all the way to the front on this scoot kills my hips, so I hope the new longer shock will fix the ride.
I need to work on the tuning of this scoot a bit. The last couple of rides with my lightweight buddy riding the 70cc Vino, and me on the 99cc Zip has him at a very slight advantage, and we cant have that!
I have not checked to see if the radial play in the crank seems any worse for a while now, but I got my fingers crossed.
I ordered 6 NOS, no box, 6204 crank bearings stamped FAG Germany. I deal outside of feebay when I can, but I think I got ripped this time. They arrived and were all locked up, and had a varnish looking coating. I soaked them in gas and oil for a few days and worked them loose, but I just don't think I could trust using them. They seem kind loose to me, almost like they are worn. I wont bother with trying to return them, Its just not worth the effort and aggravation IMO. $55 down the drain.
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Post by 90GTVert on Mar 29, 2015 10:44:53 GMT -5
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Post by Sitticuss on Mar 29, 2015 11:28:01 GMT -5
I know some guys order from vbx.com. I try to keep four crank bearings at a time lying around.
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