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Post by 190mech on Nov 20, 2014 20:23:04 GMT -5
What about the valve stems having nicks in them? And I got from a member whom apparently attempted too port and polish it. Those chatter marks on the stems are whispering 'break me here'!The valves will need to be replaced with with non molested pieces!! |
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Post by Clank on Nov 20, 2014 20:25:57 GMT -5
So would my stock head work or is there something different about them?
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Post by Clank on Nov 20, 2014 20:35:58 GMT -5
I've gotta figure a way to make this negative into a positive :stumped:
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Post by 90GTVert on Nov 20, 2014 20:51:20 GMT -5
What About the hole in the side? Is that just a casting defect? Looks like it. Some are more open than that there. |
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Post by FrankenMech on Nov 21, 2014 2:34:33 GMT -5
Casting defects like that are OK if they are not leaking. Otherwise a little work with a dremel burr and some JB weld my fix the problem.
The cracks around the valve guides give the impression that someone got overzealous with some porting.
The nicks in the valves could also be from porting but they could also be from lightning sparks from that Super high voltage CDI unit after it vaporized the ground tab off the plug.
There are kits available at the parts store to detect cracks in heads etc.
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Post by craisin on Nov 21, 2014 5:54:33 GMT -5
what is the length of the valves??? are you using an A9 cam???
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Post by 2TDave on Nov 21, 2014 7:02:54 GMT -5
That scoot is looking awesome!
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Post by Clank on Nov 21, 2014 17:57:50 GMT -5
what is the length of the valves??? are you using an A9 cam??? 69mm and I have a A-9cam that I plan on using. |
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Post by 90GTVert on Nov 21, 2014 19:21:04 GMT -5
Looks like stock valve diameters to me. If they measure the same diameter and they are the same length (64 or 69mm) then you will probably be able to swap them.
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Post by Clank on Nov 24, 2014 0:05:30 GMT -5
Poured rubbing alcohol in the ports. No leaks. With better light visually the lines in the photos that appear to be cracks are just scratches or where the tooling made a mark.. . .. . .... .
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Post by 190mech on Nov 24, 2014 5:04:08 GMT -5
The valves can be saved with a bit of work,but new ones are likely waaay cheaper than the time spent refurbishing them..
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Post by Clank on Nov 26, 2014 1:01:13 GMT -5
Ok couldn't get a response in my other thread so I'll try here. I'm debating which motor to throw the bbk on. I have a new motor with 600km a spare motor with about 3k to 5k km on it. Don't know really it's condition as I've never fired it. And then the Cannonball's motor which had over 10k km on it. I'm thinking Cannonball is still out till after new years. Any thoughts on installing it on the new motor vs. the 3to5k motor?  :popcorn: |
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Post by Clank on Nov 26, 2014 1:03:28 GMT -5
Also if I use the valves out of the spare do I need lap them or any special precautions I don't know of?
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Post by 190mech on Nov 26, 2014 5:20:35 GMT -5
The bbk puts more stress on the crank/bearings from what Ive read,if you put in on a high mile motor it'll likely send the crank to the scrap pile sooner than a low mile unit.Brent did a ton of miles/testing on his Sunl Turd project some years back.Might be worth taking a look at..Best I recall is 5000 miles was the crank failure magic number..Dont hold me to this,I'm a 2T guy but I think its written in detail in the Sunl thread..
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Post by 190mech on Nov 26, 2014 5:23:16 GMT -5
Also if I use the valves out of the spare do I need lap them or any special precautions I don't know of? Yeah,I'd lap them and check their seating..If you are wanting do get a touch more power they can be 'swirl polished' pretty easy with simple tools.. |
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