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Post by Clank on Nov 26, 2014 5:55:17 GMT -5
Also if I use the valves out of the spare do I need lap them or any special precautions I don't know of? Yeah,I'd lap them and check their seating..If you are wanting do get a touch more power they can be 'swirl polished' pretty easy with simple tools.. Swirl polish? Can you explain what that is and does? Please & Thank You
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Post by 190mech on Nov 26, 2014 10:17:41 GMT -5
Swirl polishing removes the rouhgness on the port side of the valve,the vertical lines from it keep any stress risers from causing valve head failure,it also increases flow slightly and helps keep crud from building up too.I'll try to post up some backyard DIY swirl polishing pics this evening...
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Post by 190mech on Nov 26, 2014 19:18:27 GMT -5
As promised,Homeboy swirl polishing!I used my little home lathe to spin the valve,but a drill clamped in a vice will get the same results,did a Geo Metro intake valve(sorry,not much 4T stuff in my garage!).Here is the valve before work; While the valve is spinning a stone on a Dremel is used for course cuts,note the angled stone; After the course cut,a sanding drum is used for the medium cut,same angle; Finally a Cratex wheel is used for the final cut/polish,same angle again; The results are all machine marks are in an even pattern that does not create stress risers that could cause valve head seperation; Alterations and other mods to this setup are welcome!!
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Post by Clank on Nov 26, 2014 21:45:57 GMT -5
Cool beans but is it worth the effort of doing that too something with a 5k life expectancy? I understand the concept of trying to eliminate stress points in metal. Does do anything to reduce build up on the valves or is it purely a structural integrity thing. Cool set up ,is there a particular angle to aim for like 45 works better than 30?
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Post by Clank on Nov 26, 2014 21:47:26 GMT -5
Oops missed the previous thread, today was hectic.
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Post by katastroff on May 29, 2015 7:11:06 GMT -5
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