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Post by Clank on Sept 4, 2014 8:21:25 GMT -5
Your gonna need a bigger engine block and crank, and Tran, and cvt. With the bigger piston you have more weight which a50cc crankshaft & bearings can't handle. Do you getwhat 2T Dave is saying now? upgrade your motor size. Most say 72cc or 80cc tops on a 49cc crankshaft. Idk spec in bearings for a 150cc but I'm pretty sure they are larger than a 49cc.
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Post by 2TDave on Sept 4, 2014 8:44:23 GMT -5
now tell me what am gonna have to do to meet my goals If I or anyone knew this we'd be selling you the parts. I've got $1800 in a 2t motor and cvt alone I'm running now. I've seen 74mph on gps but I'm half your weight, it doesn't get 60 mpg, it's not a daily driver, and it's a two stroke and much easier to get power from. |
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Post by 90GTVert on Sept 4, 2014 8:45:46 GMT -5
It's probably not legal to do a BBK, though that tends to be "iffy" vs the blatantly illegal 150cc swap. For example, I'm only allowed to ride a 50cc or below scoot here unless tagged as a motorcycle, but when I told the MVA years ago that I had a 70cc and wanted to tag it they said "once a 50, always a 50". It's still the original 50cc engine so it's a 50. On the other hand, let them catch me doing 60MPH and they'll prob be mad it's a 70cc. The 150s they hunt down though, it was even shown in a scooter law briefing for local police how to ID a 150.
Daily rider and all out quick are tough with these engines. There's generally a compromise there because you put a lot more stress on everything with a bike built essentially for racing. I would say you should consider replacing the crank with something like the Narkau HD or a Hoca 44mm stroker crank. Something tougher than stock. The 50mm and larger bores are known to ruin stock cranks and bearings, but hopefully they will be alright with the upgraded cranks because you'll prob need the added displacement to get, or get nearer, what you want. I'd suggest steering clear of Chinese stuff and looking for big bore kits and big valve heads from companies like Naraku and Hoca. Naraku makes a 52.4mm bore/head kit that costs around $300 but it's about the nastiest bolt-on BBK/head that I know of. With just a kit like that and a crank you'd be in around $500. Add on a cam like an A9 or one of Naraku's performance cams for around another $50. With all of that you'll probably want to go up to a larger intake and carb, maybe 20-24mm. A stock GY6 150 carb and intake will fit these scoots and could be had for $50 or less with gaskets and the isolator that goes under the intake. Normally I just say stick with a stock carb, but if you are going to push it the bigger carb may be good for you. Don't forget to get a main jet kit so you can tune the carb. Use a quality synthetic oil after break-in as well.
All of that will do you little good for speed without upgears. Hoca and ScrappyDog and others sell final drive gear kits to make higher speeds possible at more reasonable RPM. You'll also probably want an upgraded variator. I'm not sure which is the best for these but Hoca, DrPulley, Narkau, and more make them for these engines. Steer clear of cheap Chinese belts and stick with Bando, Gates, etc... You'll need a roller tuning kit or selection of rollers/sliders to get the CVT in tune. You'll probably want to use a 1000RPM contra spring and 1,500 - 2,000RPM clutch springs.
Forget the turbo unless your time and dollar budgets go way up. Most people don't accomplish a lot with turbos on these small engines. Maybe 3psi. Nitrous has more potential with less effort, but kits used on these are generally just tiny whipped cream charges cartridges that are only a dry shot with no safeties. You could go for a real kit with a refillable bottle, solenoids, safeties, and the whole 9 yards... but it'll cost most of your budget on that alone. I'd save the power adders till after the engine was well built and see if you still want them.
I'm not saying all of this will meet your requirements, but that would be a pretty beefy build. 0-35MPH in 5 seconds will be tough at your size. I'm 10-20lb heavier and a tuned up stock engine goes 0-30 for me in not that far below 20 seconds... I think it was 17.7 off the top of my head for the last runs with mods to advance ignition timing. 0-35 for me would be maybe. Sometimes it won't get there. This is with an aftermarket speedometer, verified by GPS. My max speed is 42, but usually about 38MPH is as fast as it wants to go. I could prob do 45 on many stock speedometers.
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Post by treylaw on Sept 4, 2014 8:48:52 GMT -5
clank i dont have a license so i cant do that unless theirs a loop hole that will let me do that and till alow it to be still under the moped exemption plus it be the same as getting a new bike and there is no way of knowing if it will fit my frame with out major modifying and i dont have an arc welder
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Post by treylaw on Sept 4, 2014 9:01:20 GMT -5
my idea of my build is a cross between a scooter chopper and drag bike as im wanting a 16 inch front wheel and 10 inch back
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Post by treylaw on Sept 4, 2014 10:41:40 GMT -5
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Post by 2TDave on Sept 4, 2014 11:35:46 GMT -5
I'm all for you building your scoot and proving me wrong. I don't want or mean to sound negative. I just want you to have realistic goals and not be disappointed in the end. With that said go for it! I can't help with parts. I'm a 2t guy.
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Post by Lucass2T on Sept 4, 2014 12:49:06 GMT -5
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Post by niz76 on Sept 4, 2014 12:54:11 GMT -5
2T guy here too- Most of these scoot's speedos are notoriously optimistic. For example, mine says I'm doing 55mph.(not Kph) but in actuality, a GPS speedo app on my phone says 44mph. Try out a GPS speedo app if you haven't yet. Keep us updated!
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Post by 2TDave on Sept 4, 2014 13:50:56 GMT -5
I get around 50mpg if I'm not nailing the throttle all the time, but I am.  I guess by daily driver I would think it wouldn't need tuning or rings or bottom ends. I drive mine quite often but it's not a practical mode of daily transportation because things happen when we squeeze as much juice as possible out if these little motors. I guess the difference would be in the terms daily driver and daily transportation. Two different things. |
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Post by 90GTVert on Sept 4, 2014 18:42:29 GMT -5
You can get the Hoca stuff 10% cheaper on Parts For Scooters this month with code "HOCA14" if amazon is not a must. I would not buy the $450 power pack. For one, the 26mm carb seems like overkill to me. The largest I'd go is a stock GY6 150 carb/intake/spacer that would be 24mm and would also be cheap compared to that. I'm not sure how much difference there would be, but 02starrider on eBay sells some decent stuff and you could save a lot with a 50mm and big valve from him vs Hoca. He's got some kits including a bunch of stuff for less than just a Hoca 50 or 52mm head and BBK, though I suspect the Hoca stuff will be a little nicer quality. Also, Hoca, NCY, and Naraku should all be fairly similar quality stuff so if you can find one significantly cheaper you may want to consider that. |
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Post by treylaw on Sept 4, 2014 19:48:34 GMT -5
the 26mm carb seems like overkill to me. to me there is no such thing as over kill |
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Post by 90GTVert on Sept 4, 2014 20:00:30 GMT -5
Oh, when it's bogging and a  to tune, you'll suddenly understand overkill. Trust me, I love fast stuff, but I think that's gonna be a pain. I could be wrong though, never used a 26mm. |
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Post by 2TDave on Sept 4, 2014 20:15:43 GMT -5
I think 750 cfm double pumper should do it.  |
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Post by treylaw on Sept 4, 2014 20:21:57 GMT -5
well just got the cvt apart its a mess the gasket is dry rotted belt has been worn so bad its a wonder it did not snap cleaned the cvt up a lil till i get the cluch and the inerds of the cvt out and removed the emissions and fuel system im planing to simplify it similarity to what 90gtvert did on his taotao im working with minimal tools here so im trying to advoid completely dismantling the engine out of fear for i may not be abel to remember how to put it back togther this is one of the main reason im wanting to do a bbk kit if my towns ownly scooter repair shop did not make more problems than they fix to con you out of your money kinda like the [company store] to the point that you want to sell it to them at a loss an example of this i had tire leak they told me it was the valve stem charged me 15 bucks and made the inner stem losse so it would leek and left the leak in the tire there hopeing i would buy a tire i did not need the next day before that they sold me a bad voltage regulator and sold me a atuo choke that fried my wire connecters other wise id have them put in the cam shaft
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I guess by daily driver I would think it wouldn't need tuning or rings or bottom ends. I drive mine quite often but it's not a practical mode of daily transportation because things happen when we squeeze as much juice as possible out if these little motors. I guess the difference would be in the terms daily driver and daily transportation. Two different things. 