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Draw is draw, No matter How big of a battery you put on it. If you put a bigger battery on all you are doing is prolonging the slow drain. If the charging system cannot keep up eventually you will get it so low that that it drops below 9v.

Also I have found on the Stage6 engine that once the battery gets down to 10v my pump (bosch PAD) doesn't have enough juice to flow and the bike tends to overheat.

I would LED bulb everything, put in a low watt headlight bulb or better yet put it on a switch and put in a low wattage "city" light(very low wattage park light in the headlight housing) but will allow you to turn it on if you need it in the dark.

Get a pump that has less draw for sure.

Turning it off then starting the bike and turning it back on won't matter, it's still a draw of whatever amperage.

Started making my lil monster.



Crank making, 10mm longer rod.



Durations after longer rod and removing 1mm from base of cylinder.




Some port work



Kx100 Piston in it's hole and after cylinder decking...



Final numbers.

I have the full manuals from this video, maybe @90gtv  can add them to the manuals section.

I basically delete the chip key and rewire the bike for 2t operation.

tsimi I have some tools to add to your collection, shoot me a PM with your address

Just keep going richer till it will barely run, then work your way backwards. It's almost foolproof that way... pilot is another story but wot on the main is pretty easy.

Needles are pretty basic, if you think of it like a valve, you have a solid object that keeps the fuel from passing.. so you have the L1 which is the length where the taper starts, the lower on the needle this is the MORE you have to twist the throttle to get up on to the main. IE if you were too fat mid throttle getting a needle that had say 5mm longer here would potentially help that issue.

Taper is simply that, how fast and how small it tapers down to, obviously more taper sooner means a faster acting needle with less transition, also the smaller the tip, the more WOT fuel potential you have (but this also relies on the main jet and other factors)

Diameter D is also a tuning aid as at part throttle opening you are using this as a metering measure as well, bigger here means less fuel on transition (25% throttle opening and above, lets say)

People often overlook needles, but even on keihin which is pretty easy to tune around the wrong needle it can make a huge difference to get the right needle. Dellorto are fickle and demand the right needle to work in most cases.

Added this a week ago, Overse you were right, it was missing a bunch of little transmission bits, the cover bolts, kicker boss and the axle and bearing.

No, it's cold here now and rains every other day, also with the short days i have just been in the shop cleaning, organizing and trying to get a bunch of other neglected things fixed and on track.

I really do want to get my dyno built and working this winter though, so once thats a go shit will get cray.