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Post by pitobread on Oct 16, 2019 10:06:11 GMT -5
Is this a top tank?
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Post by pitobread on Oct 16, 2019 10:05:00 GMT -5
It's supposed to mix oil and smoke at all times. It's a 2 stroke.
I would just look at the factory service manual for a sk50m. It will tell you what you need to know.
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Post by pitobread on Oct 15, 2019 19:28:29 GMT -5
Its the KX65.
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Post by pitobread on Oct 12, 2019 16:09:16 GMT -5
Instead it goes back to it's home on the ground! Recycling!
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Post by pitobread on Oct 12, 2019 15:03:43 GMT -5
12" on an elite, your gonna basically have to have rubber band for a tire.
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Post by pitobread on Oct 12, 2019 14:14:06 GMT -5
Sometimes after tuning especially after getting it wrong and go super rich I can cover the walls of my shop with 2t sludge out the exhaust and it smokes like a bastard.
It wouldn't surprise me if you found it smoked a bunch for a bit.. but if it's always smoking I would lean more towards you have a rich spot someplace that loads the exhaust up with sludge..
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Post by pitobread on Oct 12, 2019 14:06:45 GMT -5
Anyone have any Hobbit cases.. I have one of those Stage6 speedfight cylinders left over and I need a project to keep my mind busy as Im going through some stuff.  I especially like the piaggio transmission and all the stuff to get it to run backwards. All that outside the box thinking to just make it happen, rules be damned. |
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Post by pitobread on Oct 11, 2019 23:23:56 GMT -5
Badass HobbitJust gonna leave this here. It makes me want a hobbit.
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Post by pitobread on Oct 9, 2019 15:42:12 GMT -5
It has to be done at the stator, I dont think you can isolate the coils like that at the junction. Also the wrap of the coils needs to be oopposite.CW, CCW. I realize I kinda generalized but on mine it was possible, maybe by dumb luck. Not every one may be the same But you need to take the coils and put them in series.
I had this working on a vba motor, but then acquired a px125 which was already 12v.
For 100 bucks though it seems like a no brainer, unless your cheap and stubborn.
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Post by pitobread on Oct 5, 2019 12:21:57 GMT -5
Grain of salt and all that man. You did what you wanted to. Detuned a hyper kit to a little more manageable with the parts you have. Everyone is an armchair tuner....
I had one guy yell at me in french about why I used a soft mallet to seat the cases on the RC (because you can. Its a roller bearing so the bearings slide together with zero interference) I even talked about how you can do that with that kit but i guess it was lost in translation.
Deep breaths. There are all sorts out there.
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Post by pitobread on Oct 5, 2019 10:56:18 GMT -5
19. Smaller is better for driveability and fuel consumption. The power difference will be almost neglegablenat that level.
A 21 on a mid kit will be hard to tune on the low end and be fuel hungry.
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Post by pitobread on Oct 4, 2019 14:30:39 GMT -5
A heavier crank doesnt mean less torque. It would increase "torque" as it would give more flywheel effect (storage of energy via mass). But really it's a bad use of term as it doesn't increase or decrease torque. It simply changes how that torque is applied. Light stuff = more zingy. Heavy stuff = more luggy
A heavier crank will help you carry speed a lighter one will get speed faster.
Then there is the whole HPC thing.
HPC is kinda a buzzword that gets thrown around a lot. Shoot, even I thought it was good for a while. But there is a magic ratio of crankcase compression. Everything above and below that is not ideal. And it's not just throw a HPC crank in and boom you got the ratio. Everything from transfer ports to piston to reed valve play into that number. From guys much smarter than I they say the only true way to figure it out is to cc the entire engine as a whole.
What increasing primary compression does do though is much like heavier weight of crank, can change where the powerband comes on. And in some cases on some setups that's desirable. In others, not ideal.
What does all that mean? Pick an affordable quality crank and dont get too caught up in the rest.
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Post by pitobread on Oct 1, 2019 10:37:36 GMT -5
Also green for horn is AC fired so you can run that on the half tap direct. . You can also run it on DC but it loses a bit of tone.
The headlight and brake light can be run together after the 12v conversion.
I think I had to fuck with the brake light switch a tad too. It's been a few years.
Good news is to make a whole new harness for these is about 7 wires. Bad news is you have to take the headset off and all the cables to do it properly.
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Post by pitobread on Sept 30, 2019 22:20:57 GMT -5
I will see what I can dig up, but essentially you need to put the coils in series. Mine had 2 coils that did the lighting. Have one wire coming off the lead of the first one, tie the out of that first coil to the input of the second coil with a 3rd wire coming off at that junction going out(your half tap) Then for the second coil ground that out to the frame of the stator and add a ground wire out from there. 3 wires in total.
Then add in your cheap 4 pin reg and away you go.
Just don't wire you HV coil for the ignition in by accident.
The 12v bulbs don't care that they have 6v output. They will still work, but it can mess up the loads which may be why the bulbs keep blowing.
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Post by pitobread on Sept 30, 2019 19:17:10 GMT -5
The system on those use load of the bulbs as a regulator... or at least my 65 allstate did. If any of the bulbs including the pilot bulb in the headset go, it pops the other bulbs in short order.
You can probably rewire the stator to give you a center tap and then put a simple 4 pin reg on it and 12v output for much more reliability and ease of use for nearly free or cheap.
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