|
Post by ThaiGyro on Mar 10, 2021 21:01:31 GMT -5
Hi barvo1412...Stevo! I am quite sure that you already have the cranial gel pack, (brain) to excel and actually help on this forum.
Do not worry about you English. Your writing is "phonetic", so we all get it! I have German/Dutch roots. They are now rusted and decayed. (Haha)
Some of us here are old racers of two strokes. Others are new and want to "blast". I am old and want to pull wheelies or go off-road and break body parts...
Willkommen!
|
|
|
Post by ThaiGyro on Mar 10, 2021 20:49:50 GMT -5
deejais...good for you!
I am old and experienced enough to know:
That I can take bad shit, work in some home shit, test it with bat shit and make it work...like shit. Then? Start again. Kind of fun!
|
|
|
Post by ThaiGyro on Mar 8, 2021 18:38:36 GMT -5
Haha! My first thought was fuel filter. That problem described is just what my old ass has experienced many times. AS we all suggest, over and over...
Try all the easy shite first. Cheap to test, expensive to replace. Perform one test and run it. Do this until you find the problem.
Easy! (Well not really. That is why I am wrinkled and bald and have scary looking hands. Oh and I cuss quite a lot)
I would do maintenance checks, as repherence2 suggests...then go to zino tear down stuff after you have an idea of what is wrong.
|
|
|
Post by ThaiGyro on Mar 8, 2021 18:24:52 GMT -5
I think there are many clues in the Trail Tech/Koyo/Stage 6 tech install PDF's. The biggest issue I have experienced, was an install on a road bike with a worn front tire...old and worn. At 100+ mph (indicated) is was both scary and reading way too low. I was on a parallel path, next to my brother...reading 115+. Mine reading low, I think.
That was an old bias ply tire/tyre that grew/expanded a huge amount at high speeds. More circumference makes the digital world go nutz. If you program in a 940mm/37 in. circumference, (rough guess for a 12" tire) and it either deflates or expands then it will be different. Digital is not always kind with analogue conditions. All speedo's go off the original calibration, due to that expansion, tire wear and even ambient temperatures.
I am sure you will find a good answer. Murphy's law says so.
|
|
|
Post by ThaiGyro on Mar 8, 2021 17:58:09 GMT -5
I have not had one of my own. I do believe that My Thai friends built/rebuilt and love these Metro's. Good mechanical stuff! Not all have the funkified alternator/starter. That is why I/we think there is merit in looking to divide and conquer that issue.
I also believe that is it worth the time to look. Sometimes "backdating" can be better than "updating". I think that engine design lived a long existence.
|
|
|
Post by ThaiGyro on Mar 7, 2021 13:17:37 GMT -5
Not loads of fun with that particular Alternator/Starter franken-Honda setup. I see your other problem in testing: www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/detail/honda/30400-get-672/b2267017?m=151295&sch=93233Yikes! $300 on sale for the ECU seems high for a scooter, but does many jobs like any bike. Maybe find a used one...or under a hundred for a Chine clone. I am with GrumpyUnk...find/build a system that separates the starter from the alternator. Bummer.
|
|
|
Post by ThaiGyro on Mar 7, 2021 12:31:48 GMT -5
I have not used a Stage 6 display, but have much time with Koyo and Trail Tech units. (The Stage 6 might actually be a Trail Tech, not sure) Your question regarding how many magnets is confusing to me. My answer would be only one! Both Trail Tech and Koyo use only one, but I recall a spare in some kits. The other installation tip is that the magnet should not be centered on the pick up. I usually get good results by having it near the bottom, away from the lead wire. As stated above the magnet orientation needs to be correct. They are/should be marked. +/- or newer Koyos are P/N on each end of the magnet. Here is Trail Tech's install guide: (ignore the Polaris/KTM/whatever references) cdn1.polaris.com/globalassets/trail-tech/2020/home/pdf/010-elv-199.pdf?v=834b67d1Having three magnets, IMO, could cause many issues. If that is what the install guide says, I wonder what do they (Stg 6) think would happen if one goes bad? Or even new...one or more could be weaker than the others. Kind of strange to me. Do let us know what you find!
|
|
|
Post by ThaiGyro on Feb 10, 2021 20:34:45 GMT -5
Yeah...90 is way too low. As the guys stated above...rings installed up side-up? Not sure about the MB5, exactly, but should have two rings...30mm x 1.5mm. They both should have a locating pin to seat against, thus less room for OOPZ!
That is one good and fun engine, so best of luck!
You may also want to measure the cylinder bore...ID/runout. If you do not have a "runout" ball gage, you can get an idea of cylinder wall dimension, by measuring what you can with your calipers, top side and bottom. Not a great method.
Another tell-tale method...pencil mark your cylinder walls with....uhhh a pencil. (#2) Make marks up and down...plus all around every port. Slip in a super thin sheet of baking parchment...fitting to the walls as tight as you can. Then try to slide the new piston inside going top to bottom or visa-versa. If that works, take some photos! We all can see!
If that cheap method gets you no where...look at your crank seals. Haha, kind of ass-backwards trouble shooting, but you get the idea!
|
|
|
Post by ThaiGyro on Jan 20, 2021 15:57:38 GMT -5
Interesting thread...not sure what to make of it. With my welding experience, heat treating and such, plus a wide ass variety of both right and left handed screw drivers, and an amazing array of exhaust flange offset bushings...I have never had this much problem fitting up a poop shooter.
Maybe I should think more about man(u-facturing), man(ipulating) and manning up to some different standard?
Regardless...Good on 'ya!
|
|
|
Post by ThaiGyro on Jan 16, 2021 20:20:20 GMT -5
I know little about Stage 6 stuff...they use others to make their gear...but if you can find the ohm range for your scooter...and the S6 sender... You just might have a signal that ends, where the other begins. It also might not recognize the signal range at all.
Sorry for the vague answer, but electrons and their programmers are a strange lot.
|
|
|
Post by ThaiGyro on Jan 5, 2021 19:36:12 GMT -5
Welcome Gonzalo! Some of us actually speak Espanol, but it appears your English is good. I think aeroxbud is right about your scoot. Not sure about the USA, but that model name is not known to me well. I never saw one in Thailand either.
I have a few friends who think that model was only '98-'99...but I recall they were introduced in '95 in Brazil, maybe. Maybe only Europe and South America? Not sure, but it looks quite like a few other really good scoots!
I am quite sure you will find good information here to help your efforts! I think you will enjoy it!
Let us know what you need, post engine pictures and what you can find! ENJOY!
|
|
|
Post by ThaiGyro on Dec 28, 2020 20:05:35 GMT -5
lovetorepair....In case you wonder, there are many Americans, UK and other Europeans, maybe some NZ or Aussies, plus a smattering of Asian or SE Asians here on this site. We all love our scoots, but use different fuel economy measures.
FYI: 70 miles per gallon = 3.36 liters per 100 kilometer = 29.76 kilometers per liter.
If you are consuming too much oil, along with your petrol/gasoline for example...bad economy. Maybe someone can find you an online manual to help you with routine maintenance and proper settings.
Ensure that your ignition is acting properly, then clean everything in your intake, carb and exhaust...and try again.
My only other comment...WD 40 is a temporary thread lubricant of a strange blend. Please consider never using it for combustion.
If you are having continued issues after checking your battery and basic tuning...we can help further. Report back please!
|
|
|
Post by ThaiGyro on Dec 28, 2020 19:26:40 GMT -5
Hi jonas, not completely sure what you are asking...I run that same Koso on my 4T Yamaha in Thailand. I had to use an adapter "tee" to be able to screw it in.
You will want to measure the water temperature at it hottest point, which should be after the outlet near the top of the head, before it is cooled. I would say, as close the the outlet as possible.
For reference, the air cooled 2T engines measure cylinder head temperatures directly. I am sure some here will know what water temp will correlate to the head temp. Sorry, but I would be guessing a bit.
If you are asking about the wired connection...just 12v from the positive side of the ignition. (and a ground) The sensor will provide resistance to the gage for it to value and display.
|
|
|
Post by ThaiGyro on Dec 21, 2020 20:28:20 GMT -5
Bottom line hendo...is open up your top end and check the pieces/parts.
The cylinder walls smooth? The piston "appears" ok? (check it for dimensions...diameter compared to what it should be, round? Not a dumb question)
The rings...easier to see. Are they flat on the contact surfaces? Magnify! If they look like my noggin, you need to replace them. They need a decent 45 degree shoulder from face to groove surface.
Last 2 penny's: If you are going to get a good compression gage... Find one that holds peak pressure, with a let off valve. That way you have a bit of time to see what you really have. If yours is a simple "Bourdon Tube" with no stop/check, then you must visualize the "apparent result". Not a big thing, however, but nice to have. (Trick: warm it up to ~70F/21C.)
|
|
|
Post by ThaiGyro on Nov 29, 2020 16:17:45 GMT -5
I would say you may not need much help...sounds like you have a good plan. I can only offer that, in general, we have set initial advance setting in the +20.5 to 21.5...or higher, depending on pipe and carb tuning. Must get it fired off!
How you back off/retard your advance is the hard part. Mild tuned, non adjustable ignitions tend to only back off to ~16 to 18 degrees in a gradual recession from 2 to 3k rpms until a low-ish redline.
We have seen moto-crossers that initially peak above 24 degrees, yet back down quickly as they reach pipe happiness fast due to short range gearing. They might be at 8 or 10 degrees at 10,000 to 12,000.
I think you can safely set something like initial 20.5 degree tapering down to 12-ish after maybe 3 or 4000 rpm. Just a guess, but having the ability to adjust it is part of the fun...and adventure!
If you can measure AFR at specific rpm's...maybe you can set your map pushing those targets.
|
|