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Post by ThaiGyro on Sept 17, 2021 13:12:36 GMT -5
We have had some fun with IAME mini swift air boxes. USA prices around $40. The Mini Swift engine is a 60cc, 10 h.p. two stroke. The air box is not huge, but work very well...single inlet bell.
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Post by ThaiGyro on Sept 13, 2021 18:44:36 GMT -5
Hey all! I just began working on an issue that affects everyone. Surely in the USA, but may be happening elsewhere.
That is, the latest attack on small businesses that supply parts or technology that supply the racing industry. There is a change in how they are "claiming" what comprises a race vehicle. New wording has it that ["vehicles, designed and built for DOT street use, cannot be modified in any way for racing purposes"].
I saw a YouTube video about a Colorado business fined $18+ thousand for selling "Hondata 3" chips for racing purposes. It may be in appeal...I hope so, but the impact globally is massive, if not stopped or compromised.
The deal for me? We build highly efficient 2 and 4 stroke engines for racing. I KNOW that most of them exceed EPA regulations, with the question being their new found application and small business attacks. Weird that the manufacturers are not being provoked. Japan, Australia, China, many European suppliers still selling, but locals slammed for their efforts. Ground up attacks???
Our own assistance is currently in dirt track...EPA E85/90 or pure methanol engines. Same with some bike efforts and even research in aero applications for unleaded avgas. My point is that these are almost all cleaner than EPA specs.
The stories are mounting on You Tube... I just joined the effort to support H.R. 3281, the “Recognizing the Protection of Motorsports” or “RMP” Act. I have contacted my Montana Representative...who co-sponsored the bill, so I can find a way to support this. (Matt Rosendale)
If you are so inclined, please go to the SEMA or PRI sites and take a look at the work they are doing. Join the effort, if you can.
This is just the beginning...next is beer regulation
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Post by ThaiGyro on Aug 25, 2021 20:29:21 GMT -5
Just a side note...I saw no mention of humidity. My sea level experiences held much issue with 95F/35C at sea level with 45 to 90% swings in humidity.
My resolution was oversize carb bodies (more air) with much range in pilot play...Your pod filter really complicates that...twitchy/funky between pilot and main.
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Post by ThaiGyro on Aug 22, 2021 22:16:43 GMT -5
HI!! Today, I had the fortune to venture forth into the abiss..formerly known as Wave Runner's and Sea Doo's. Frantic call from the family of a former colleague "We are on the lake with two dead Sea-Doo's."
They live some 160 miles North, but were at my local summer lake craze spot. I loaded up tools and such without knowing WTF I could do.
Long story clipped, they had left an elderly Yamaha Wave Runner 500 ashore, so I used it to drag the mish-mash back to the launch. Upon opening the fuel tank inspection ports? Haha...a nice mixture of agua/petrol/2T oils in both big Sea-Doggies. (Local bad pump??) Air tank/compressor and filter bags and weird on-lookers...ta-da! Zing-zing-zing!!
I now own the little 500. ('89 Wave Runner 500T) Never had a PWC. Now I are one. They thought it was under-powered. It is. So am I.
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Post by ThaiGyro on Aug 16, 2021 13:57:10 GMT -5
I am with the guys above. Something not seem right Kimosabi. (That is Tonto from The Lone Ranger)
If you could list each component with a picture, we all could drive you crazier. If your CVT is someones "hybrid", we would likely see that. Easier to keep your pocket change next to your twins.
Quite often, folks get the belt wrong. Yes, size matters. Not the girth as much as the length....but we have seen some combo's that are right for a particular set of bells and quite poop on an OEM set. Likewise, the opposite.
FYI...for my own tuning, I do as many engine mods and quality checks as I can...BEFORE attempting a CVT setup. Often hard to do, but bears riper fruit.
Kind of like this: *** tune your engine (cleaning internals, Ignition setup, AFR-carb setup to that ONE pipe) *** test and repeat until some WOW grins happen. *** test again and note any good or bad CVT performance. *** change/tune only CVT settings, one at a time. *** Apply, lather, rinse...repeat.
In other words...spend more time and less money...if not satisfied, spend more money...and more time to get it right....then more money and again and again. Overall, you will learn by our mistakes, have a fun scooter and have pocket pool efficiency.
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Post by ThaiGyro on Aug 16, 2021 13:33:41 GMT -5
If all is stock...as bud says...it should be under the front cowl, with relays and such. That CVT vent tube should be routed to a small filter...under the seat, maybe. If I can recall, the OEM filter was a plastic housing with a stuffed-loose mesh filter. No mattter. Any cheap vent-filter will do.
If you get discouraged...please send it to me. I love me some Dio.
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Post by ThaiGyro on Aug 10, 2021 16:09:23 GMT -5
Haha! Inside that rabbit hole is a mole a vole and a rat...Here is another thing to ponder:
Where do you measure from? And to? My example is that I never use a false center to center when spacing/sizing two or more holes. I measure "edge to edge" on the same plane. Maybe the human eye cannot detect it well...but measuring from vapor space to something else can induce issues.
Brent said it well above. Most of us just put them in and go. In racing 2T days, we never took that plan. We measured EVERYTHING! Pain in the arse!
Me thinks the actual pin is rarely the issue, (it is hardened, after all) but the hole it is stuffed into has loads of room to be off. Component spec matching is not a street thing! (But is recommended)
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Post by ThaiGyro on Aug 10, 2021 15:50:57 GMT -5
As zino stated...clean and polish that entire variator and clutch, then give it a close look to see if there are any induced defects.
Do not feel too bad. A new belt can be more fiddly-diddly than a worn one. The problems is not always obvious.
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Post by ThaiGyro on Aug 7, 2021 19:01:32 GMT -5
But just to muddy the waters,we have snickers chocolate bars that replaced the much loved marathon they said it was just a name change but I,m still not sure,now we are not Europeans anymore is English E10 = to stateside E10 = French E10 or just another befuddled cock up. Geoff Hey Geoff and all....This question is right on the mark! Firstly, the Ethanol produced in various regions is from different plant forms, thus cannot be the same, though closely similar. (USA uses corn, Australia-wheat, South America, likely cane)
The question of tuning is more complex. My Honda Fit runs it fine, but lost 15-18% economy. My ECU/EMS car brain does what it can, but it cannot quite burn it well. NOTE: The E10 was not designed for pre-2011 engines. Yes, it works, but not like E5 or no ethanol.
The bigger issue to me, upon this weeks closer look-see...Is that it is not even close to being "MORE GREEN". That notion is a joke! Simply look into the process of refining mammal food into automotive food. The process requires milling, fermentation and distilling. All requiring more combined energy than refining hydrocarbons. (per bbl) That means the world powers are using more bunker fuels and coal to produce ethanol than gasoline/jet/diesel/kerosene/butane/propane production....per barrel. (Oh yeah, cannot be put into pipelines...too much water)
The other obvious, (to me) issue is that the by-products are spent distillate grains, which cannot be feed to animals...and produces much CO2! Whaat?
Please take note of that!!! They have mandated 10% ethanol in MOGAS to reduce CO2 emissions from cars, at the cost of producing ethanol, which is producing more CO2 than cars. If you have doubts? Does an ethanol plant have an ECU? NOPE! Emission controls? Surely, but in some states/provinces/territories...the money talks. That CO2 has to be released somewhere in the process.
Fifteen percent, (E15) is coming soon. The world is running crude reserves dry. Enough said.
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Post by ThaiGyro on Jul 20, 2021 14:55:21 GMT -5
Hey bud! A few notes to help clear the air...E10 has been in the states for a long time, depending on where you live... **E10 has an average octane of ~93-94 **E10 has about 30% less combustible energy than 91 octane. (Burns quicker) **E10 in theory can produce more power...but takes a significantly higher amount of fuel to do so...
So...in my non 2T world, with FI and ignition control and wide-band 02 and a nice flow bench? Yeah, maybe. In the 2T sense for scooters and MX bikes? No, not...never. Not worth of the pain. Five percent is already borderline too much.
I already miss the rare, but attainable 95 benzine that could be found in Thailand.
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Post by ThaiGyro on Jul 20, 2021 14:28:34 GMT -5
Here is my first thought, regardless of a scoot shelter or not: NEVER leave your petcock in the "ON" position when not running. They will drip, drip, drip. If your carb vent is as plugged as the rest? That drip event goes into the crankcase via gravity. Even if your vent is okay? it is likely higher than your carb-to-case port, (intake) so you still get drippage. (Yes, that is a word...now anyway)
Combine that with a bad float needle? Crankcase full of fuel and oil and dirt and rust.
Even on today's 2T engines...heck even 4T race bikes and cars...they drain the carbs every time the engine overnights. Overkill? On a daily driver, my answer is yes. However, we have multiple scooters and motorcycles...all turned off every use. Drained if no use planned.
You will question that now, but thank me someone, when you are 65.
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Post by ThaiGyro on Jul 20, 2021 14:07:47 GMT -5
Hi rocket, a two stroke top end can last a long time with good maintenance and proper tuning. In my experience, if you drive it up on the torque curve, power on the pipe...a top end can last a long time. Hmmm...time, miles or whatever. How you winter it...Cleaning, tuning, always stay in the know of your scoots condition and play with it.
You are correct, that this site is huge and often hard to find what you are looking for...My recommendation is to follow those who have like scooters and interests. Or simply ask as you have done! Many here are super helpful. Welcome to the forum!
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Post by ThaiGyro on Jul 13, 2021 9:51:41 GMT -5
Seems as though this has become a more common problem...if it in fact a small end bearing. Excessive piston slap on deceleration? If so, that is always top end tear down time.
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Post by ThaiGyro on Jul 8, 2021 14:23:03 GMT -5
Hi shift....I am also thinking what geoffh said above. I lived in Thailand for many years. Our scooters, of different manufacturers all had some higher heat generation from off-road riding as geoffh suggests. Our scooters in the North were subject to many varied road conditions. We had a Vespa that kicked butt, until off-road...where it had clutch issues. Of note: that excess on/off can input crazy heat...near the hub...near the bearing.
The fix is cruise it smoothly on dirt...tune the clutch as suggested above..check that the bearing is installed properly...upgrade the bearing material if all else fails.
Warning! Do not be tempted to vent your cover, if you travel off-road. It will cause more problems. As others have asked...do you have pictures?
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Post by ThaiGyro on Jun 28, 2021 12:25:40 GMT -5
Not sure what all you currently have for goodies...but that Mach 1 is a ROOST pipe, I think. (A copy maybe?)
It should be a high performance pipe, usually requires a nice carb to feed it properly. That said...you should always think about tuning your CVT and/or upgrading it as you "power up")
What kind of ignition tuning have you done? That is a good starting point before your upgrades.
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