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Post by ThaiGyro on Jun 28, 2021 12:15:24 GMT -5
Welcome ivri, Looks like a lot of things going on with that. The prior owner left you a great learning opportunity. Pictures of some engine views might help everyone to offer some more advise.
A few things jumped at me: *Why three failed rectifiers? All old?
*The air box will be a help in tuning...after you reseal those holes. Holes do not allow in more air, they lower the box pressure, which is less air.
Clean everything you can before attempting to spend money. You will be glad you did. Any oil and dirt can only hurt your troubleshooting.
*ignition misfiring? After cleaning the ignition pick up sensor...usually inside the alternator cover...also called a crank pick up or other names...then check to see if it is set properly...or maybe has a short.
Much to learn, but you might have a rough diamond...or maybe a shop towel holder. Time will tell.
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Post by ThaiGyro on Jun 21, 2021 16:52:16 GMT -5
I cannot load the pics...and may not matter. Here is my life long mantra:
I ALWAYS check my desired ignition timing first. Two strokes don't like too much initial setting. Never seen an airhead nor water lung that did well above 20.5 degrees at high idle. (18/19 for OEM) Thus, the variation is not much. Others have better data on newer ignitions, but that initial setting range is the base of many ignitions.
Your carb issue looks well documented, but please do yourself a favor and keep your sparky setup known/recorded and set properly. Doing so will show a funky plug, or wire or pickup that cannot keep up. (Cracked housings are common!)I still use goofy timing lights and O-scopes.
If all of that ZZZZ shit is spot on...look at carb settings. Not before.
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Post by ThaiGyro on May 15, 2021 11:16:51 GMT -5
Much discussion about them these days. Their reputation in the '70's and early '80,s not so great. The use in street cars/trucks today is quite common. Near anything turbo'd or supercharged has them.
However, if doing a torque motor, there is really not much to gain, except a lighter wallet. I still want to do a Honda GX single with them. We were trying to do a small bore, 4T, FI outboard setup, but never got that far. For economy more than power.
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Post by ThaiGyro on May 10, 2021 14:43:51 GMT -5
Hi reference2 and Lucass2T...yes, we have used them. may have posted some info about a build we worked on pre-Covid. They were hybrid with stainless cages and silicon nitride balls. ABEC 5.
Most of my current road race friends use them in their engines, as well as wheel bearings. Very robust compared to the older ones. One of our test engines in Thailand has a set. (Crank, counter balancer and tranny.) We souces them from Lilly, which is Chinese, but high end and half the cost.
They were worth the money for our efforts over there. Road race and super-moto bikes. The CBR 300 engine had 7 bearings in total at ~$290.
The Thai scooter drag guys use them if rich enough. Fun to watch!!
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Post by ThaiGyro on May 3, 2021 18:48:05 GMT -5
Hi Zooma, I think Zino has you on the right track, but I will give you caution. From an old guy, I/we like to tune evertyhing..especially two strokes by doing one thing at a time. Then check. Seems a pain in the ass? Yes, it is! However, many know, from experience, how to eff-up poop.
My suggestion is to...check ignition settings, (haha, some folks think I am crazy), then think about what you have done to make things different. Record all of that in as much detail as you can.
Then make a change. One change. Run it an write down the results. Like it says on your shower gel...apply, rinse and repeat. The thinking for me? If you do not know what one change did...why do ten? If your friend thinks he/she is smart? How and why? If "everyone does that, so it must be good"? I will show you a loser.
Learn to be "that guy" who checks everything, one step at a time. God-like.
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Post by ThaiGyro on May 3, 2021 18:24:45 GMT -5
I love these type of threads. As a former racer, builder, tuner...I focus on bearing APEC numbers. Not "exactly" the same beast.
In our engine builds of say...11,000 plus rpm expectancy, APEC 4+ is well worth the cost.
If you do not expect near that? APEC 3 is quite OK, 4 is better, if you are close in rpm. (conservative)
Your question of steel versus not? It is buried in the rating. Failure is all heat related versus time versus rpm in OMG rpm land. Understand OMG for your engine...I run cheap'os in engines 10,000 or less. (properly maintained)
My three cents/pence/peso/bitcoins
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Post by ThaiGyro on Apr 29, 2021 17:16:34 GMT -5
Hi all! The past few days, I have been tuning and trouble shooting a 2T boat motor. Great shape, former owner passed away, so no way to brain pick. He was a Master Mechanic...
So, the new owner and his dad come along and get excited, because this boat has EVERYTHING!! However, it had not been run in 4 years. OK.
Enter my help. Only issue was no spark. (Initially) Upon checking ZZZZZZ circuits, with a multi-tester, I found a short in the emergency lanyard switch +++positive circcuit. Done and fixed with a new kill switch.
Ohhhh, nooo! No sparky, no nada. Traced my own stupidity and found no issues....except that I was reading voltage from a shit meter. I fixed was wasn't broken. My bad!
The problem was not spark, really. It was a stuck choke, (not the true issue) and a bad gear override switch...the one that lets sparky through!! OWAFIA. (Oh-What-A-Fool-I-AM) Spent two or three days, flocking up a shit sandwich.
The moral of that story? Do not forget to test the testers or you will get kicked in the testes. This was a $350 nut kicking.
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Post by ThaiGyro on Apr 27, 2021 10:49:36 GMT -5
You asked the right question...and the answer as Brent suggests is not that easy. My advise is to learn as much about engine management, but do so in a systematic manner: My brain does better by breaking the elements down. Not sure the order always matters, because you be recycling and double checking before the light bulb in your brain gets lit well.
* Learn how your software/firmware package works. The interface often is clunky making little things easy to forget. *Learn the management elements well, but as individuals. Ignition systems...injector systems...analog and digital I/O. Easy concepts, but easy to get confused when troubleshooting. * Data logging *Oxygen sensor control *Keep it simple
I have been doing some research with HalTech recently, for a Suzuki project, that might be similar to yours. (Except it's a car). It is old OBDI bus control from 1994, so has EFI, but still uses and old CDI wired/mechanical distributor. No data logging. I am looking at a controller than can do COP, (coil-on-plug) plus take over the EFI functions with wide band 02 sensor input. Effectively, replacing the entire harness...and possibly the gauge cluster, out of necessity. (The OEM ECU mixes some functions, or does them at different voltages. (This part can be hard)
The point is: Study the many, many videos that HalTerch and others have on YouTube. You can see by their breakdown, just what things you need to learn and possibly do not even want. What is over engineered...what is simple control.
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Post by ThaiGyro on Apr 25, 2021 17:19:21 GMT -5
The issue was on the 2 super 8s always like that even stock . The sym jet 50 evo just all of a sudden did it . 1 super 8 is completely stock . Only thing I can think of is they are 2015s and sat so thinking it's a good chance it's the bearing seals leaking air . Dried out from sitting .
I guess that I would not agree. Three of anything nearly never act the same...especially two strokes. All three with three identical seal leaks? No way, assuming the installation was as it should be....and all seal journals were the same.
I am not trying to be an arsehole...but you are missing something that is blocking our ability to help. I am quite simple. One plus one plus one must equal three. Thus you have done some act of tuning that made it that way.
The probability of three "equal" units mysteriously choking? Astronomical.
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Post by ThaiGyro on Apr 22, 2021 10:23:45 GMT -5
Too many changes and something (info) is missing. Can you go back to the setup you had when all was working well? Just a point of old man tuning reference...we keep a log of every tiny change to any engine, drive part or whatever. We don't even assume that a part is marked correctly. Main jets are often not the size of the stamp, or not stamped on occasion. Carb bodies are often not round or the throttle plate has too much gap.
Hard to say what it is from afar...my first guess is as above members have written. Try to compare your original carb pilot jets/settings to the new ones. Look at your everything magnified. If all three fall on their face, it seems as if is in transition from idle to pilot or pilot to main.
Swapping pipes and other super critical parts is not going to help you. Start over if you can.
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Post by ThaiGyro on Apr 18, 2021 13:55:25 GMT -5
As aeroxbud said above...no need to go to a highly paid mechanic to potentially squeeze you dry, when you can squeeze yourself dry!
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Post by ThaiGyro on Apr 14, 2021 20:46:42 GMT -5
I would keep the OEM frame as is...It is not clear to me what you are pondering...if you have clearance issues...maybe an angle/dangle intake? Not a deal breaker for sure! You can have some fun if using an air-box...if not? You are in for crazy tuning anyway!
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Post by ThaiGyro on Apr 14, 2021 9:37:28 GMT -5
Just have to ask...did you change anything else in the fuel system? Ignition? Use premix or injected oil? All things being potential problems. I always check ignition timing first, because that is my experience with sudden failures/power losses.
Then look at combustion and drive systems. I also suggest getting a tach and cylinder head temperature gauge. Makes life a bit easier to diagnose For example: If you were turning 9,000 rpm at 40 mph and still at 9,000 at 30? That is dramatic and could be drive related, but could be a partially plugged pipe. Could be your ignition jumped somehow...but less likely. (It would run super bad or not at all)
If you are only reaching 8,000 rpm then a whole new set of possibilities open up.
How smooth does it accelerate? No stumbling? How much pipe smoke? Different than before? Just seems that there must be more to it...
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Post by ThaiGyro on Mar 23, 2021 19:29:17 GMT -5
What the guys are implying here...and don't feel bad...is that you tried to do too many things at once, "hoping" for great results.
In the two stroke world, there is no magic, but there are tricks. Just go back to your GOOD running setup, if you can. A bit more top end jetting with a BBK is OK.
Look through these vast pages of "how to" and you will soon see. I have an early '80s Honda 49CC engine, that is still sporting OEM guts, but with some love and care. It has a few carb options to go with a few pipe options. Different combo's, different operations, but both work well...on the leaner side. Ignition timing...do not forget!! Do it FIRST!!
It took me many hours and much Thailand sweat to get these setups right. DO NOT WORRY! You will too. One step at a time will make your personal light bulb brighter.
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Post by ThaiGyro on Mar 12, 2021 21:19:31 GMT -5
My guess is that even if a "Honda" part...assuming the original packaging, numbering and such, that these were farmed out to the Easterly neighbors. Hard to say.
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