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Post by pitobread on Jul 10, 2020 23:03:09 GMT -5
Yeah those spiral flute CNC taps are the bee's knees.
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Post by pitobread on Jul 10, 2020 13:47:04 GMT -5
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Post by pitobread on Jul 10, 2020 12:50:48 GMT -5
It could be your tap is worn out and cutting oversize. That will for sure not make your life easy.
This is why tapping isn't that precise. I mean in a ultra rigid VMC with a roll or form tap yeah you can make some damn precise threads, but when you start putting less rigidity and the human factor into it, you end up with some issues.
The other problem is trying to use a thread to locate, I mean it has to have clearance to fit, so it can't be size for size and there will be slop no matter what.
You could look into a tighter tolerance tap. not all taps are created equal and you can get taps with less thread clearance You could look for a H2 tap.
Out of curiosity what is your tap drill size? what is the thread you are trying to achieve?
You are right, hex stock isn't "perfect". .001 sounds pretty damn good to me.
Also since your tapping blind try and get a black oxide spiral flute, looks to be about a 20 dollar tap in H2, i am guessing this is m8 or m10.
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Post by pitobread on Jul 10, 2020 10:25:45 GMT -5
Final though, put a nice chamfer on the hole before trying to drive the tap in will help a lot with centering.
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Post by pitobread on Jul 10, 2020 10:07:17 GMT -5
Other things to consider, are you center drilling your hole? your tap drill is it cutting evenly?
Once the hole is cut is it running true end to end?
All of that stuff can play a part in your tapped hole running true to everything else.
If you have a tiny boring bar, cutting the hole undersize and boring it true to center is always your absolute best option. The tap, much like a drill will follow the path of least resistance, once there is a hole there it wants to try and follow it as much as it can.
You can make a tiny boring bar out of the solid end of an old drill, or any piece of high speed steel and some grinding time.
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Post by pitobread on Jul 10, 2020 10:01:46 GMT -5
The best option is to tap your part, then chuck up a hunk of garbage, turn it and put a thread on it to suit then thread on your adapter to that and turn all your operations onto the piece that you threaded on. Good excuse to learn how to thread! There are lots of youtube tutorials out there to get you making scrap parts er, good parts!
Then from that you could mill your own hex onto it.
That is about as dead nuts other than using a threading bar to get everything running as true as possible. But sometimes you just have to work with what you have.
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Post by pitobread on Jul 10, 2020 9:47:50 GMT -5
Hey Man, Keep at it. You aren't dumb! I teach a lot of apprentices and it just comes down to experience.
Here is my approach.
Tapping is not really a precise thing, I mean it is and it isn't.
I would make myself a spring center, or buy one. It is a tool that goes in the tailstock that allows you to load up on a tap and keep it centered the whole time, you can do this manually by continually moving the quill out after every turn.
With a Taper tap(which is what 90% of home shops have at their disposal) you can still easily go crooked after a few threads, this is because on a taper tap, you really are not hitting full thread depth untill your at least 6 threads deep in most cases. because the snout of the tap is relieved heavily to allow for easier cutting and almost a reaming action, you can for sure get a few threads started then due to uneven pressure on the tap handle get it going crooked.
SO all that said, here is what I would do.
Tap your part first. if the hex is out a tiny bit, big deal. obviously try to get it good, but just tap your piece first thing.
Then either make an arbour, use a bolt or even the tap and chuck it up in your 3 jaw running true. Thread on your tapped out hex piece and turn your OD to your pulley dimensions.
This is about as good as it will get.
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Post by pitobread on Jul 8, 2020 9:17:01 GMT -5
Heres the thing.
Every time you add a stiffer spring, or heavier weight, that all takes power to drive.
Your contra spring you want the absolute lightest spring you can get away with (No belt slap or slipping)
Why?
Because then you can run the lightest weights possible again freeing up power.
Also if your belt is that low in the rear pulley your belt is probably too short, which means you wont ever get full travel anywhere. You put a longer belt, stock spring and maybe slightly heavier rollers than stock I bet you will see better acceleration and pretty damn near full variator face usage. You should also check the travel of the variator and see if at top the drive face isn't interfering and keeping the belt from moving up further, you may need a shim or two added in between the drive face and the boss to get you more travel.
It never hurts to just take the whole front and rear pulley and on the bench check if the belt can ever even ride that high before you put everything on the bike and assume it can.
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Post by pitobread on Jul 6, 2020 11:52:36 GMT -5
Honestly, I don't hear anything alarming. but sometimes the microphone doesn't pick up certain frequency correctly. Did you change to a pod filter? it sounds loud like intake noise for sure and you get that tingy pop from open filter.
Maybe shoot the video on the non intake side?
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Post by pitobread on Jul 4, 2020 12:56:45 GMT -5
Take the belt off and pull the weights out of the variator, for that matter pull the variator entirely but tighten down the boss and kickstart and drive face stuff just so you can start it.
then start it and see if the noise is still there. If it is gone, you now know it's just a noisy variator.
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Post by pitobread on Jun 30, 2020 14:45:35 GMT -5
No it's not impossible, but it is possible that you put an AC fired CDI onto a DC fired setup and blew the fuse.
You need to check the pinouts for both, when you go willy nilly plugging stuff in without confirmation that it is correct, this is what you get. Also confirm the part number on the new one that it is indeed a DC CDI unit.
The plugs may match but I have seen both AC and DC fired units with those same plugs.
I have swapped AC and DC fired CDI units before it is not hard at all, but you need to know what wires are doing what, draw a little map out on paper.
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Post by pitobread on Jun 28, 2020 12:15:24 GMT -5
Once you start going past the ideal flow rate I am sure mild cavitation starts and as you overdrive the pump further moves from mild to heavy which means for units of power input into the pump, you are probably seeing a decrease % in output.
I mean if you look at it like a turbocharger which is also a pump there is a band of efficiency on the compressor map. Go over that and all you have made is a hairdryer as heat takes over and flow per unit of input power decreases.
Thats my speculation.
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Post by pitobread on Jun 23, 2020 13:33:36 GMT -5
The inner seal on the pump housing has failed, since it is driven off the crank it has an open path into the crankcase.
It will basically siphon the whole tank into the engine. It's not uncommon to see that failure on a Honda oil pump.
Yes plugging it off and premix is a solution 40:1 is good.
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Post by pitobread on Jun 23, 2020 13:31:31 GMT -5
Most of the scooters they make parts for are no longer made, or not made in the same numbers they used to, or have entirely different power plants.
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Post by pitobread on Jun 18, 2020 1:56:01 GMT -5
Polini Big Evo 94cc Malossi Testa Rossa 94cc 2 Fast 94cc or 100cc MVT SC Race 98cc
Some are very expensive though.
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