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Post by pitobread on Jun 11, 2020 17:50:07 GMT -5
Hey, I will buy all the broken stuff, what is left of the crank and what is left of the cylinder kit.
Edit on second thought i dont need the crank, if it was piaggio I might. but will happily buy the remnants of the cylinder piston and adapter
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Post by pitobread on Jun 11, 2020 13:26:42 GMT -5
and if you are really concerned about end load you could put a roller style bearing on the flywheel side. Malossi makes one for the RC-One kits and they use the Minarelli sized bearing.
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Post by pitobread on Jun 11, 2020 13:24:52 GMT -5
You could make a long nut, with a threaded section the same as the crank threads thru all out of hex stock. Then on the pump drive end make a spigot for your pulley that is just slightly shorter than the width of the pulley and jam bolt and washer on there with loctite and maybe even a set screw to keep it captive for the XL pulley.
The rubber band style is nice though because if your grooves are deep enough it allows for a small amount of misalignment where as a timing style belt doesn't really care for misalignment as much.
Upsides are timing style are a more rigid and robust belt with positive drive engagment (no slipping, even if wet)
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Post by pitobread on Jun 11, 2020 11:58:46 GMT -5
Most of those kart pumps just run a glorified rubber band to drive it.
I have seen on mopeds people just get a long/custom flywheel nut and cut a groove in it to drive off the crank. then you need to do some math to get your ratio on how big of a diameter drive vs driven.
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Post by pitobread on Jun 7, 2020 18:54:29 GMT -5
You could try a hybrid cap/battery system?
Lots of people who do cafe stuff run a large capacitor instead of a battery for kickstart only stuff. I have some here but I never ended up using them.
I wonder if the cap could help smooth out the peaks even more and aid in the low end flicker.
I am all too familiar with the inner rotor low end light flicker.
I mean the only other option would be a big honkin odyssey pc680 AGM car battery or their powersports 545.. Those things pack a serious CCA into a small package. It is still just a stop gap though. eventually if you are put putting you will end up with a low voltage.
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Post by pitobread on Jun 7, 2020 12:04:40 GMT -5
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Post by pitobread on May 16, 2020 19:19:19 GMT -5
go electric, don't look back.
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Post by pitobread on Apr 13, 2020 12:25:15 GMT -5
Yikes, ok they are more expensive.
Option C is buy one of the top performance cheapies and swap over to a 90mm rod.
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Post by pitobread on Apr 13, 2020 12:09:15 GMT -5
Malossi MHR 86cc is 44mm stroke, it is an older crank so it may be more affordable... I just am not sure if it uses an 85 or 90mm rod.
I think MXS makes a 44 or 45mm stroke crank as well.
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Post by pitobread on Apr 13, 2020 1:50:46 GMT -5
The only other think I see is that crank has been hit a bunch on the end. I would check it for runout as well.
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Post by pitobread on Apr 13, 2020 1:48:58 GMT -5
Ouch.
If you end up not using that S6 Crank and cylinder I would not mid having one as a spare, even if the piston is shot.
You could use any 44mm stroke crankshaft with a 90mm rod length. There are still some out there on the market, just not Stage6 R/T.
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Post by pitobread on Apr 3, 2020 9:06:42 GMT -5
Piaggio is definitely bottom mount. Quite a bit of fab to swap from top mount to bottom, fab wise.
Sounds exactly like the motor I have here.
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Post by pitobread on Apr 1, 2020 15:11:28 GMT -5
All the power now.
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Post by pitobread on Mar 26, 2020 11:18:08 GMT -5
Hey do you have any spare plastics for this? I am looking for the tail light and the piece that holds the tail light in!
I want to see if I can graft it to my Typhoon so I have better turn signals!
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Post by pitobread on Mar 26, 2020 10:39:54 GMT -5
I get some downright insane comments on my channel too. You just can't do right by everyone. No matter how hard you try.
I loved the new video.
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