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Post by niz76 on Oct 17, 2014 0:44:41 GMT -5
thanks for all the info. seems pretty lagit to atleast try sum ideas. now am wondering is there any (not sure of the word) limiters on the bike that i would have to worry about like to keep me slow or under a certin speed? I believe the word you're looking for is 'restrictions'. Here's text from the tech section that I copied and pasted: Check For Restrictions Some 49cc scooters are manufactured with restrictors to limit power output and/or top speed. Since many states require 49cc scooters to drive 35MPH or less the restrictors help to keep the average person from pushing much above that speed. Sometimes restrictors limit the engine's power output by placing obstructions in the exhaust or intake manifold. These are usually a washer or other object that allows less air or exhaust to pass by it, thus keeping the engine from "breathing" properly. I have seen exhaust restrictors in person on a 4 stroke scooter, but both of my 2 strokes were free of exhaust restrictors. That doesn't mean that your scooter couldn't have one though. I have never seen an intake restrictor in person, but I have seen pictures of intake restriction on a 49cc 2 stroke scooter so they are out there on some models. Some manufaturers use CDI ignition systems that reduce the engine's output by limiting it's maximum RPM. Reducing RPM can cause a lack of power for acceleration as well as a loss in top speed. Sometime the rev limiter can be bypassed by simply cutting the correct wire. In other instances the CDI may need to be replaced to remove the RPM restriction. If you happen to have a fuel injected scooter, the ECM may need reprogramming. If you believe that your scooter may be rev limited, do research on your particular make and model to find out if there may be a rev limiter and how to go about removing it. A very common method of restricting top speed involves the scooter's CVT transmission. Scooter manufacturer's are known to use washers, often made of plastic, to limit the variator and drive belt's travel. In order for the CVT drive belt to reach the outer edge of the variator (for the highest top speed) the variator must be allowed to travel to it's maximum reach. Removing restrictor washers will often gain a few MPH and sometimes more. If your scooter has a plastic washer between the two variator halves it is most likely a restrictor. Research your make and model if you aren't sure that what you are removing is a restrictor. Removing the wrong parts can lean to belt failure or other transmission damage. If your stock 49cc scooter goes 40MPH and above you probably don't have any factory restrictors installed. It wouldn't hurt to do a little research on your scooter online to be sure anyway. Read more: 49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/345/affordable-performance-stock-scooters#ixzz3GNVSbL4f |
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Post by highmoose on Oct 17, 2014 1:35:31 GMT -5
roflmao  thats it thank u so much niz76 |
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Post by niz76 on Oct 17, 2014 2:25:45 GMT -5
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Post by Clank on Oct 17, 2014 2:53:29 GMT -5
Don't drink & scoot :no:
:cheers:
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Post by highmoose on Nov 8, 2014 12:05:31 GMT -5
well hello guys been a bit. but got bad news on a nightly ride some one cut me off and i dumped the bike. not sure wut is wrong but isnt running rite. feels like its pulling a car wen goin. gonna wait n tear it down n check it all out. amy suggestions on were to start? will have video up soon to show how it is.
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Post by blufloyd on Nov 8, 2014 21:21:30 GMT -5
Dang hope it wasn't warped out of shape too bad. I am still trying to get my wasted body up to speed to finish bike but not looking good. Might take to friends heated tool shed to fiddle with as winter settles around me.
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Post by highmoose on Dec 1, 2014 19:17:38 GMT -5
no not warped. fram is fine and cracked the front plastic. also the housing for the headlight metal is a lil bent. gotta fix them. storing it in my basement for the time being. think im gonna just play with it during the winter. got some tools need some others. but my 1st thing i wanna do is ask u guys a question. now i know roller weighrrs come in so to be tested with the pack to test bbut is ther also the same thing for the clutch springs and contra springs. i.e. 1000,1500, and the 2000, also was wondering about the jets u mess with in the carb. is there like a set to buy instead of just one at a time?
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Post by scooterpimp on Dec 1, 2014 19:43:41 GMT -5
Yes you can get jet kits ,usually 4-5 mains 75 & up
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Post by Clank on Dec 1, 2014 21:22:13 GMT -5
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Post by 90GTVert on Dec 2, 2014 19:57:49 GMT -5
Sorry to hear of the crash. You can get jet kits from PFS (part# 114-49). There are companies that sell clutch spring kits I think, at least Stage6 made them for the Minarelli two-strokes, but I don't think there's much of a price difference vs just buying them individually. I would check the whole CVT over. Make sure no hoses are off or damaged anywhere. Since it's been tipped over it's not a terrible idea to check that the airbox and filter don't have gas in them and the oil isn't diluted with gas.
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Post by highmoose on Dec 2, 2014 21:20:33 GMT -5
again guys thank you for the help. before starting it i plan on draining oil n gear oil n replacing it. there was sum oil that leaked out think from air inbox so gonna tear it all apart clean n replace it. want to also replace the gas lines with the cool looking green aftermarket ones. also waiitng on sum extra cash to get tach so i can tune better.
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Post by highmoose on Dec 3, 2014 4:10:53 GMT -5
ok just wondering guys. i see alot about porting and polishing 2ts but really dont see any thing on the 4t. can u not do it or not worth the time and money? i know it involves opening the inlet and out let. but like i said was lookign thru the site and seen it on 2t bur not 4t. or i just havent found it yet.
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Post by 90GTVert on Dec 3, 2014 8:13:02 GMT -5
It can be done. You're working in a small area and if you damage the seats or cut through in a thin spot you can ruin the head. Valves should be removed so they don't get knicked up, then find some way to protect the seats and do your best to avoid touching them at all. The last 4T I owned, I ported the head and ended up with a tiny knick on the seat and that caused a leak which then caused a burned exhaust valve.
Unless you know a bunch about porting, your best bet is probably to match up the intake port with the gasket, spacer, and intake and remove any really rough casting in the ports. This may not even require you to work on the valve seat side of the port or to go into the port enough to need to remove the valves. You do not need to polish them. You can polish the exhaust port if you'd like, but the effort is not likely to reward you with anything substantial. A polished inlet side is actually bad. You don't want it bumpy and such, but you don't want it to shine either.
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Post by highmoose on Dec 4, 2014 2:02:22 GMT -5
well that seems like something you should do after everything is alst or before. either case seems like i should would on other stuff 1st and leave that last just for the hell of it i guess.
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Post by Mrx2002 on Dec 4, 2014 2:31:28 GMT -5
well that seems like something you should do after everything is alst or before. either case seems like i should work on other stuff 1st and leave that last just for the hell of it i guess. Yep do like i'm doing with my scoots make them 100% reliable then make them go fast!   |
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