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Post by chehystpewpur on Oct 11, 2014 14:48:39 GMT -5
Well I have all of my parts for the most part finally. I said screw it and got the 12mm piston so I can just use the 12mm pin crank bearing and not hope a reduction bearing holds up if it even fits.
Parts include Doppler full metal stuffer crank
12mm piston
Top performance trophy 50cc top end
Nachi crank bearings
Hoca gasket set
Malossi over range variator 2005 style
Leo Vince zx-r exhaust for now
And I'm sure there's more I'm not thinking of.
I will try and get some pictures here and there when I can and hopefully have it together today and just have odds and ends to finish tomorrow at the worst.
Anything I should think about or keep in mind as I go? Maybe a useful tidbit or a trick to make things simpler?
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Post by niz76 on Oct 11, 2014 15:11:37 GMT -5
Are you changing out the crank? I found freeze spray (electronics duster) to be a huge help as it gets the cold parts colder than the freezer and it's faster. Since then Brent has posted that he and a few others are now doing the "slip fit" method where crank and'or bearings are sanded a bit so they push on snugly instead of the nightmare of shrinking and expanding metal to get things to fit. i'm sure you probably read all that already but I figured it was worth mentioning if you're splitting the cases.... Good luck brother!! Lets see some pics!!
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Post by chehystpewpur on Oct 11, 2014 17:23:52 GMT -5
The freeze spray sounds like a good idea honestly but I bought a heat gun today from harbor freight. I was going to do the oven freezer method but have heard that heat guns make it way easier. They are having a big sale right now actually so a decent one only costs 10 bux and its dual range heat. As the great Greg and 90gt once said I dont want a scooter casserole the next time I use the oven. If this turns into a pita with the heat gun I might try the slip fit method. Thank you for that info niz.
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Post by 2TDave on Oct 11, 2014 17:30:21 GMT -5
I opened up the ID and took down the OD on some used bearings I use for mockup purposes only. I wouldn't suggest it for good bearings that you plan on using. You can sand the crank the way that has come to light recently. I installed mine the old way cuz I was skeerd to sand the crank! Lol
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Post by chehystpewpur on Oct 11, 2014 18:45:26 GMT -5
So what do you do when you have a crank bearing that decided to stick half way on the crank? All was going well till then I luckily got the bearing out of the case before everything stuck.its like a half to 3/4 inch from where its supposed to slide on to
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Post by oldgeek on Oct 11, 2014 19:10:48 GMT -5
So what do you do when you have a crank bearing that decided to stick half way on the crank? All was going well till then I luckily got the bearing out of the case before everything stuck.its like a half to 3/4 inch from where its supposed to slide on to Not sure how you got where to where you are. Did you watch any of the tutorials on how to install the bearings? Usually you install the bearings on the crank first, next step you install the crank into the small case half, and finally install the crank/small half into the large half. However if you decide to slip fit the crank to bearing assembly, you would install the bearings into each case half, then install the crank using the slip fit prepped crank. If you have a bearing stuck halfway on the crank, you need some type of puller that presses on the inner race only. You risk damaging the bearing if you pull or push on the outer race. |
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Post by nelson on Oct 11, 2014 20:32:22 GMT -5
Man that sucks! You will have to get a puller as mentioned, be very careful and dont put pressure on bearings or outter race or you will be buying new ones. Like a 3 jaw puller but the jaws have to angle upwards. If you dont have something like this you are likely betyer off getting of however you can and buying a new one. I have bought koyo single bearings off of amazon for less than $10 made in Japan, cant beat them imo. I ran them in a lot of atvs I built and they are good
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Post by chehystpewpur on Oct 11, 2014 21:04:04 GMT -5
Thanks for the suggestions I got it figured out luckily. I ended up just pressing both bearings on the sides of the crank. I was doing something between the slip fit and heat gun. Basically took a tiny bit of material off the cases so it wouldn't be a complete pita but they wont be loose either just a little easier on and off. And took a tiny bit of material off on the crank for the same premise. I'm glad thats over with I ended up smashing my finger and it started hurting right about the time i was putting it together and the bearing cooled too quick and stopped. If I'm lucky the rest of it will go smoothly because the hardest part is over.
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Post by niz76 on Oct 11, 2014 21:05:57 GMT -5
So what do you do when you have a crank bearing that decided to stick half way on the crank? All was going well till then I luckily got the bearing out of the case before everything stuck.its like a half to 3/4 inch from where its supposed to slide on to Yep- this happened to me- the bearing was stuck about 1/16th inch from being seated all the way on the crank. I panicked and used more freeze spray and I think I quickly pried it back off with the claw of a hammer but honestly can't remember- it all happened so fast lol. I aborted like 3 times during the process but got everything together without whacking the crank and she runs like a champ! |
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Post by 2TDave on Oct 11, 2014 21:10:14 GMT -5
Uh oh
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Post by oldgeek on Oct 11, 2014 21:12:53 GMT -5
Interesting  |
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Post by nelson on Oct 11, 2014 21:19:19 GMT -5
Yea, I did that once and there was a weird hi pitched no ice. I ran it for a few days then tore it down put new bearings in again..fixed up. If u have then real close but it in the cases and tighten each case bolt slightly and evenly. U can also put a bit socket on outside of case and use the crank nut to suck bearings in.
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Post by 90GTVert on Oct 12, 2014 9:17:05 GMT -5
I was doing something between the slip fit and heat gun. Basically took a tiny bit of material off the cases so it wouldn't be a complete pita but they wont be loose either just a little easier on and off. And took a tiny bit of material off on the crank for the same premise. You removed material from the engine cases where the bearings sit? I don't think that's a good idea unless you checked measurements. From what 190mech and I measured, good cases should be right about 1.8495" ID where the bearing sits. Maybe I've got it all wrong, but I'd think the slip fit is a better idea on the crank and bearing because they are more similar materials. Different thicknesses, but should still expand more similarly than aluminum and steel. Even when I shimmed the bearings and had about 0.001-0.0015" tighter interference fit than normal, and had to deal with shims in the cases, it wasn't all that difficult to get bearings in. Just gotta heat the cases to around 250F and bearings (even at room temp) should drop in with no need to clearance bearings or cases. I'd be afraid the bearings could get loose in the cases when the engine heats up or as it heats up and end up wearing out the cases or bearings quickly. Mine wore to the point that they fell out, and I never even clearanced anything. Hope it works out for you, but that's not something I'd suggest for future builds unless someone corrects me on this. I'd stick to a slip/push fit of the bearings to crank if anything is done that way. |
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Post by Corrosion on Oct 12, 2014 9:19:17 GMT -5
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Post by moofus02 on Oct 12, 2014 9:34:03 GMT -5
Shoot in delivering next door to them this morning. If it wasn't Sunday i would stop in and pick one up. Was thinking of grabbing a couple tires also but not on this trip Sent from my SPH-L720 using proboards |
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