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Post by mauibird on Jun 17, 2016 21:40:15 GMT -5
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Post by mauibird on Jun 25, 2016 22:04:42 GMT -5
Put a .8mm head gasket on today (.6mm larger than b4). That lowered my compression to 155 psi  |
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Post by mauibird on Jun 25, 2016 22:10:22 GMT -5
Threw in one 5gram weight on my variator ( had all 7.5's before). Went from 45 grams to 42.5 total. Of course it pulls harder. I got almost full travel, just a hair less than before. With 45 grams on the variator  With 42.5 grams  |
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Post by mauibird on Jun 25, 2016 22:14:08 GMT -5
I got about 500 more rpm's by going 2.5 grams lighter, and a pretty good top speed… By the way, these didn't happen at the same time   |
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Post by oldgeek on Jun 25, 2016 23:19:27 GMT -5
Almost 80 mph! I bet that scoot is a handfull at that speed. I cant imagine going that fast on 10" wheels.
Awesome!
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Post by mauibird on Jun 26, 2016 3:05:16 GMT -5
Almost 80 mph! I bet that scoot is a handfull at that speed. I cant imagine going that fast on 10" wheels. Awesome! It felt pretty solid, It was a rush though, I'm not gonna lie. |
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Post by mauibird on Jul 16, 2016 18:23:10 GMT -5
My scooter Guru noticed on my video with the carb slide that the slide itself was getting pulled too far up at full throttle. He said the bottom of the slide is curved for a reason and should be flush with the top of the throat at wide open. This is with the slide too high  |
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Post by mauibird on Jul 16, 2016 18:29:57 GMT -5
I tried every possible combination of adjustments to the cable and I couldn't get it to be fully closed and then fully open to the right amount. So I decided to drill and tap my throttle and install a sort of top end governor screw. It is adjustable and now stops the slide at the perfect spot. The top screw is the one I installed  |
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Post by mauibird on Jul 16, 2016 18:32:41 GMT -5
So here is the slide with the right amount of pull The curved part of the slide is flush with the top of the throat  |
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Post by mauibird on Jul 16, 2016 18:34:04 GMT -5
My Guru says it helps with the Venturi affect, and gives more power than pulled all the way up.
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Post by 190mech on Jul 16, 2016 18:39:02 GMT -5
I see a 'step' after the slide in the last pic,is that an intake mismatch or am I missing something??
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Post by mauibird on Jul 16, 2016 21:22:03 GMT -5
I have a rubber coupler between the carb and the aluminum intake. That step, I think ur referring to is the lip of the intake. The carb is too big to have the carb and intake openings mate together inside the coupler. The float bowl hits the cylinder air shroud so I have to use a longer coupler. I'd love to make one of those atv Haggerty intakes work, but it looks like it would position my barb right on the frame. Here's a pic of the Haggerty intake I found online  |
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Post by mauibird on Jul 16, 2016 21:27:19 GMT -5
Here's a pic of an OKO/Keihin pwk slide. Notice the curved part. That should be flush with the top of the carb throat at wide open.   |
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Post by mauibird on Jul 17, 2016 0:27:56 GMT -5
I see a 'step' after the slide in the last pic,is that an intake mismatch or am I missing something?? I'll probably go back to this coupler after pointing that out, thanks! This one has a raised center section to make a smoother transition between the carb and intake  |
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Post by mauibird on Jul 17, 2016 0:32:49 GMT -5
Its all about the fine tuning…
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