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Post by Thebatman on Mar 14, 2011 9:27:46 GMT -5
The reason i ask is, when i put the outer pulley on, the kick start gear has the splines also.. Gets on tight holding pulley in place, but the washer and nut for the pulley(the washer stops at the splines). the pulley is able to rock back and fourth. I figured a shim to hold it tight(somewhere on it anyway..lol) was in order..
So i may want one behind the outer pulley(touching drive boss) to get the splines flush and able to tighten it solid?
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Post by 90GTVert on Mar 14, 2011 9:32:04 GMT -5
The washers on my varis that goes to the outside of the kick starter pawl will fit over the splines. You need a washer large enough to fit over the splines and thick enough that you are tightening the nut against the washer and not just to the end of the crank's theads. Take the pawl to the hardware store and it shouldn't be that hard to find something that will work or can be made to work without much trouble.
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Post by Thebatman on Mar 14, 2011 11:36:09 GMT -5
Hey guys... Well, i got it together and started..(i am waiting on a intake and airbox from shaker, should be here tomorrow..
Anyway, she is idling fine, wheel barely moves on occasion. i gave it 1/4 throttle seems good, tried taking off, bogged down to the point of dying out, goes back to idle, it's good. go wot, it dies out. I thought with no load it was good but it's not. Does it either way... The gas?.. dirty carb? no air filter?(which i happened to cover the tube barely and it wanted to die), dirty filter in tank?. I dont think its been jetted any either... Any other ideas other than my 4?.
I have the intake rigged up with gasket maker till the other gets here, so it should be leak free..Could it be to rich now?(the reason for dying out with any throttle?). david rode this before the cvt issue.. I've not even taken carb off or anything cuz i wanted to get cvt done to see if belt was gonna stay on, idles fine, dies out with any throttle...
Thanks guys if you have any ideas.....
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Post by 90GTVert on Mar 14, 2011 11:47:09 GMT -5
If it's too rich you should be able to hit the gas and hold the throttle till it dies, then pull the plug and find it soaked with gas. If it's too lean you should be able to stick your hand over or partially over the inlet as you hit the gas and have it rev. If you suspect that it's bad gas, you could drain his out into a container on it's own, then put a little bit of fresh in. If there's no change, put his gas back in. While it's empty the first time, check the rest of the fuel system out.
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Post by Thebatman on Mar 14, 2011 12:20:17 GMT -5
Thanks man, i'll check that now.. I did install a new plug boot(ngk), that couldnt be it, could it?..
Why hell no, it starts fine, must have enough spark....lol
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Post by 90GTVert on Mar 14, 2011 12:35:26 GMT -5
I doubt it's the plug boot unless it's loose or something.
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Post by Thebatman on Mar 14, 2011 14:00:45 GMT -5
Well brent, i tried your trick.. The plug is black and wet.. (Figure the carb could use a cleaning though regardless).. Now if this trick works, the jet must have been tampered with, correct?.. how else could you get richer?... leaks,etc. make you leaner, correct?.....
Also, on a side note. Figured i put here since its same engine instead of a new thread.......
But on these motors like this one or any.... Say you hook the battery up backwards and have NO power at all now, dead... The stator probably has been burnt up,correct?.. More than likely the culprit anyway, w/o checking the rectifier,cdi???
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Post by Thebatman on Mar 14, 2011 14:08:38 GMT -5
And if i'm correct with that, any idea where one can be ordered?.. I didnt see any oem stators at scootercraft, just inner systems...
Thanks
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Post by 2strokd on Mar 14, 2011 14:50:12 GMT -5
Clean the carb and wait on the airbox and intake. Then try it out.
BTW, that airfilter might need cleaned in the airbox i gave Jason to send to you? All i did was look inside to make sure it had one.
You can get a stator from Scrappydog pretty cheap. MAke sure you check the crank size first. The vari side should be either 13mm OD or 16mm.
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Post by Thebatman on Mar 14, 2011 15:46:02 GMT -5
Thanks man, the reason i am asking other ?'s here is.. david's bro has one too.. HE told me his battery wasnt charging, I told him the stator may be going bad. HE changed the battery and it's completely dead now.. The battery WAS hooked up wrong, i fixed that part and got power. woo hoo, but of course the starter wont turn over at all. trying to charge the bvattery now......Trying to learn the multimeter, the starter relay has the same volts as the batt either way(well, one side says -,same #'s)
@ 2strokd, Yeah i think that is the air box jason is sending me.. May be here tomorrow..
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Post by Thebatman on Mar 14, 2011 16:13:10 GMT -5
Hmmm, the oil light blinked, sounded off, kept beeping. oil was low, filled tank up, no beep, no light.(fuel gauge moves, the oil light SHOULD be on, correct? Starter doesnt turn yet...
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Post by 90GTVert on Mar 14, 2011 18:33:32 GMT -5
Oil light should only be on to indicate low oil level, so it sounds like that is working properly.
The no-start troubleshooting guide in the tech section should cover all the checks and whatnot you would need to cover the battery and starting system.
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Post by Thebatman on Mar 15, 2011 13:06:00 GMT -5
Electrical ?'s....
Hey guys.. Why i said i'd help daves brother with any electrical is BEYOND me... I have switched out the cdi, nothing.. the coil, nothing, the starter relay, nothing. Tried switching the switches but the wires are a bit different. I am going to swap the starters out but the bottom bolt is impossible to get to without half dissassembly it appears. I have no readings at all on the starter. It's faulty, correct?.. no volts period.. This is the odd ?. when i mash the start button, nothing happens BUT the brake light comes on. W/O touching the lever,just the button..
I also cant get volts at the switch.. HAve them at the plug in for the switch(frame side) but nothing at the button plug.. So i have to be wrong here cuz both parts with no volts??
Is there an easier way to get that bottom bolt?
What am i doing wrong with the meter?(the switch and starter cant be bad)
Why would the brake light come on pushing the start button? (of course, it never evn turns over) :stumped: That seems like it would be some rigged ass wiring but all is oem.. This was running also, but said the batt. wasn't charging so he changed it and nothing but the batt. was backwards..(i did try kicking it 40 times with nothing too).. ANY ideas, help guys will be GREATLY appreciated....(i have been looking at the trouble shootin guide, but have more ?'s, especially with the light, electrical is very weak in my forte... :rofl: :scared:
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Post by 90GTVert on Mar 15, 2011 14:36:38 GMT -5
You've got a short or a wiring mixup somewhere if the brake light comes on without touching the starter button. You do need to be holding a brake to get the starter to engage though. Check continuity through the starter switch. You should have no continuity with the switch at rest, not touching it. When it's depressed (not sad, but when you push it lol) you should have continuity so power can transfer through it to activate the starter relay.
If it's an allen/hex bolt, you can use a standalone hex key sometimes to get the lower bolt. There is an access hole in the case so you can stick a socket on the lower bolt and then slide a 1/4" extenstion through that access hole to attach a ratchet to that socket.
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Post by 2strokd on Mar 15, 2011 15:07:39 GMT -5
Here is a pic of the hole  Dont mind my cheesy filter set-up....Its not needed for sure lol.   Maybe one of the brake switches is bad or shorted? |
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